Rediscovering Roots: A Family Journey to Harar

A Day of Discovery in Harar

Today was a day of diving deep into the heart of Harar’s history and culture. It felt like stepping back in time, wandering through the city’s storied streets and absorbing the echoes of its past. Sharing this experience with Hans-Peter and Lila made it all the more special, as I watched them connect with a place that holds such a significant part of my own heritage.

Our day began with a hearty Ethiopian breakfast at Betemengist. It’s a charming little restaurant, and I was eager to introduce my family to the authentic flavors of Harar right away. We savored *firfir* and *ful medames*, staples that brought back so many childhood memories. Lila, surprisingly, took a liking to the *firfir*, despite its spicy kick. Hans-Peter enjoyed the *ful*, remarking on the rich, savory taste. The warm hospitality of the staff made us feel incredibly welcome, setting a positive tone for the day.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Betemengist in Harar - where every meal tells a story.

After breakfast, we made our way to Rimbaud's House & Museum. The building itself is beautiful, an old Indian merchant house that stands as a testament to Harar’s diverse history. It’s often mistakenly called Rimbaud's House, but it is a museum dedicated to the French poet Arthur Rimbaud. While I knew about Rimbaud’s connection to Harar, seeing the illustrated wall panels about his life and work was quite fascinating. The photographic exhibition of turn-of-the-20th-century Harar was particularly striking. Some photos were taken by Rimbaud himself. It was incredible to see how much, and how little, the city has changed.


Discover the legacy of Arthur Rimbaud at his House & Museum in Harar, a cultural gem showcasing the poet's life and the rich heritage of Ethiopia.

Lila was intrigued by the colorful stained-glass windows and the artifacts on display. She peppered me with questions about Rimbaud’s life and his time in Harar. I did my best to explain his story, emphasizing his adventurous spirit and his connection to this unique city. Hans-Peter appreciated the historical context, noting the blend of cultures that have shaped Harar over the centuries. I was happy to show them this place.

Visiting Rimbaud's House & Museum felt like piecing together fragments of history, connecting the dots between a French poet's life and the enduring spirit of Harar.

Next on our itinerary was the Harari National Museum. Located across from Ras Makonnen's Palace, this museum offered a more intimate look at the local culture. It's a modest museum, but it is packed with household artifacts, traditional costumes, weapons, and jewelry. Seeing these items up close provided a tangible link to the daily lives of the Harari people.


Discover the rich cultural heritage of Ethiopia at the Harari National Museum, where history and tradition come alive in Harar.

I was particularly moved by the display of traditional Harari dresses. The intricate embroidery and vibrant colors are a testament to the artistry and skill of the local artisans. I explained to Lila the significance of each garment, highlighting the unique patterns and designs that distinguish Harari clothing. She was fascinated by the jewelry, especially the elaborate necklaces and bracelets adorned with colorful beads and silver.

Hans-Peter was drawn to the collection of weapons, which offered insight into Harar’s history as a fortified city. He examined the swords and shields, commenting on their craftsmanship and their role in protecting the city from invaders. I shared stories of Harar’s past, recounting tales of battles and sieges that have shaped its identity.

For lunch, we headed to Muna Restaurant. It was a delightful experience. The restaurant is known for its authentic local cuisine. We ordered a variety of dishes to share, including *shiro wat*, *tibs*, and, of course, more *injera*. The flavors were rich and complex, a testament to the unique spices and ingredients used in Harari cooking.


Discover the rich flavors of Ethiopia at Muna Restaurant in Harar - a must-visit for food enthusiasts seeking authentic local cuisine.

Lila enjoyed the *shiro wat*, finding it mild and flavorful. Hans-Peter savored the *tibs*, praising the tender meat and the aromatic spices. I was simply happy to be sharing these familiar tastes with my family, watching them experience the culinary heritage of my birthplace. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and we felt like we were truly immersed in the local culture.

In the afternoon, we ventured into the heart of Harar’s bustling market. I wanted to give Lila and Hans-Peter a taste of the city’s vibrant commercial life. The market was a sensory overload, a kaleidoscope of colors, sounds, and smells. Vendors hawked their wares, offering everything from spices and textiles to handmade crafts and souvenirs.

We wandered through the narrow alleyways, marveling at the array of goods on display. Lila was particularly drawn to the colorful baskets and the intricately woven fabrics. She picked out a small, hand-painted basket as a souvenir, a reminder of her time in Harar. Hans-Peter was fascinated by the spice stalls, inhaling the fragrant aromas of cumin, cardamom, and berbere. He purchased a small bag of berbere to take back to Munich, eager to recreate some of the flavors we had enjoyed during our trip.

Of course, I couldn't resist doing some shopping myself. I stopped by AYA BOUTIQUE AND COLLECTION, a shop known for its unique handmade treasures. I found a beautiful, hand-embroidered shawl that I knew would be perfect for cool evenings in Munich. The intricate designs and the vibrant colors captured the essence of Harari craftsmanship.


Explore AYA Boutique in Harar for unique handmade treasures that embody the spirit of Ethiopian craftsmanship and culture.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hirut Restaurant for dinner. It's another local favorite, known for its authentic Ethiopian cuisine and its warm, inviting atmosphere. We ordered a selection of dishes to share, including *doro wat*, *kitfo*, and *gored gored*. The food was delicious, and the portions were generous.


Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Hirut Restaurant in Harar – where tradition meets flavor in a warm setting.

Lila was a bit hesitant to try the *doro wat*, as it is quite spicy, but she ended up enjoying it, albeit with a glass of water nearby. Hans-Peter loved the *kitfo*, praising its rich, buttery flavor. I savored the *gored gored*, a traditional Harari dish of raw beef marinated in spices. It’s not for everyone, but it’s one of my favorites.

The evening was filled with laughter and conversation as we recounted the highlights of our day. Lila shared her impressions of the museums, the market, and the food. Hans-Peter reflected on the historical and cultural significance of Harar, expressing his appreciation for its unique heritage. I simply felt grateful to be sharing this experience with my family, watching them connect with a place that holds such a special place in my heart.

As we walked back to my relatives' house, under the starlit sky, I felt a deep sense of contentment. Today had been a day of discovery, a day of cultural immersion, and a day of family bonding. It was everything I had hoped for and more. I am so happy to show my family this place. I am already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit the Hyena Feeding Site and the Aw Abdal Mosque. It promises to be another day of adventure and exploration, another opportunity to delve deeper into the heart of Harar’s rich and vibrant culture. I am a bit nervous about the hyenas, but I'm sure it will be a unique experience.

Before heading to bed, I spent some time reflecting on the day. I thought about the importance of preserving and sharing our cultural heritage. I thought about the power of travel to broaden our horizons and to connect us with people from different backgrounds. And I thought about the joy of sharing these experiences with my family, watching them grow and learn and discover the world around them.

“The beauty of the world lies in the diversity of its people.” It’s a sentiment that resonates deeply with me, especially after today’s experiences in Harar. I am so grateful to be able to share this unique city with my family, to introduce them to its rich history, its vibrant culture, and its warm, welcoming people. It’s an experience that I know we will all cherish for years to come.

Tomorrow, we have another exciting day planned. We'll start with breakfast at Tasty Cafe, followed by a visit to the Hyena Feeding Site. I'm a little nervous about getting so close to hyenas, but I know it's a Harar tradition. After that, we'll explore the Aw Abdal Mosque, and in the evening, we'll dine at Harar Brewery Restaurant. I'm also planning a stop at Desta Bar & Restaurant. I am so excited to show my family more of Harar!