Rediscovering Roots: A Family Journey to Harar

Harar, My Home Again

The air is thick with the scent of spices and roasting coffee – a familiar embrace I haven't felt in years. Today, I returned to Harar, my birthplace, with Hans-Peter and Lila in tow, eager to share a piece of my heart with them. This journey is more than just a vacation; it's a homecoming, a chance to reconnect with the roots that have shaped who I am. As we navigate the vibrant streets, I feel a sense of anticipation, a desire to show my family the magic of this ancient city.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a delightful breakfast at Nati Cafe & Restaurant. The cafe was bustling with locals, their voices creating a lively backdrop to the start of our Harari adventure. I ordered *fuul*, a hearty dish of mashed fava beans, while Hans-Peter opted for the traditional *chechebsa*, shredded bread sautéed with spiced butter and honey. Lila, ever the adventurous eater, surprisingly chose *kinche*, a kind of wheat porridge. It was heartwarming to see her try new things with such enthusiasm. The food was delicious, and the strong Ethiopian coffee was the perfect pick-me-up after our long journey. According to online reviews, Nati Cafe is known for its fresh juices, and the view from the balcony was indeed quite nice.


Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Nati Cafe & Restaurant in Harar – where every meal tells a story.

Fueled and ready, we ventured into the heart of Harar – the Harar Jugol, a UNESCO World Heritage site. These ancient walls, built between the 13th and 16th centuries, stand as a testament to the city's rich history and cultural significance. Walking through the narrow alleyways, I felt a surge of nostalgia, remembering the countless times I had wandered these streets as a child. The walls, once a protective barrier, now serve as a gateway to a world steeped in tradition and Islamic heritage. It's amazing to think that Harar is considered the fourth holiest city of Islam, boasting numerous mosques and shrines, some dating back centuries. We walked through the Harar Gate, which I learned was added more recently in 1889. It was fascinating to see how the city's layout still reflects its 16th-century design, with commercial and religious buildings at its core.


Explore Harar Jegol, Ethiopia's historic walled city, where vibrant culture and rich heritage await every traveler.

Home is not a place, it's a feeling; and today, Harar feels like the warmest embrace.

Lila was particularly fascinated by the vibrant colors and intricate designs of the traditional Harari houses. She peppered me with questions about the history of the city and the people who lived here. It was a joy to share stories of my childhood, painting a picture of a Harar that exists both in the present and in my memories. Hans-Peter, ever the pragmatist, was impressed by the architectural ingenuity of the walls and the way they have withstood the test of time. He was also interested in the strategic importance of Harar throughout history, serving as a vital trade route between the coast and the highlands.

For lunch, we indulged in more local flavors at AWADAYE RESTAURANT(ABDI YONIS). This restaurant, like many in Harar, offers a taste of authentic Harari cuisine. We savored *shiro*, a flavorful stew made from ground chickpeas, and *ambasha*, a traditional Ethiopian bread. The food was simple yet satisfying, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It was a great opportunity for Lila to experience the communal aspect of Ethiopian dining, where food is shared and enjoyed together. Although I couldn't find many online reviews, the restaurant seemed popular with locals, which is always a good sign.


Experience authentic Ethiopian flavors at Awadaye Restaurant in Harar – a must-visit culinary destination for tourists.

After lunch, we decided to explore the local markets, and I was keen to visit Tujuba. The market was a sensory overload – a kaleidoscope of colors, sounds, and smells. Spices, textiles, and handicrafts were piled high, creating a vibrant tapestry of Ethiopian culture. I was particularly drawn to the batik clothing, a traditional Harari art form. Lila, of course, was captivated by the colorful beads and trinkets, while Hans-Peter admired the craftsmanship of the local artisans. I bought a beautiful shawl for my mother and a small, hand-carved wooden camel for Lila as a souvenir.


Explore Tujuba in Harar for exquisite batik clothing and experience the vibrant art and culture of Ethiopia.

As the afternoon sun began to dip below the horizon, we made our way to Harla Cafe and Restaurant for dinner. This restaurant offered a more modern take on Ethiopian cuisine, with a menu that included both traditional dishes and international favorites. I opted for the *tibs*, sautéed meat with vegetables, while Hans-Peter chose the grilled fish. Lila, feeling adventurous, tried the *beyaynetu*, a vegetarian platter with a variety of stews and vegetables. The food was delicious, and the ambiance was relaxed and inviting. I noticed that Harla Cafe is known for combining Ethiopian cuisine with international dishes, and I appreciated the variety.


Discover the flavors of Ethiopia at Harla Cafe and Restaurant in Harar – where tradition meets taste in a cozy setting.

Before dinner, as dusk approached, we paused to witness a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony. The air filled with the aroma of roasting beans as our hostess meticulously prepared the *jebena*, a traditional clay pot. The ceremony was a beautiful display of hospitality and community, a ritual that has been passed down through generations. We savored each pour – *Abol*, *Tona*, and *Baraka* – each with its distinct flavor and significance. As we sipped the rich, aromatic coffee, I shared the legend of Kaldi, the goat herder who discovered coffee after noticing his goats became energetic from eating certain berries. It's said that coffee ceremonies during New Year celebrations are more than just a drink, they are a time to gather, reflect on the past year, and set intentions for the year ahead. Sipping the coffee reminded me of home and the importance of sharing traditions.

It's interesting to learn that the Ethiopian coffee ceremony is deeply intertwined with New Year celebrations, symbolizing hospitality, community, and renewal. As the hostess roasted the beans, the rich scent filled the air, and I was reminded of how this ceremony is a powerful symbol of togetherness.

As the day drew to a close, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this opportunity to share my heritage with my family. Harar had welcomed us with open arms, enveloping us in its warmth and charm. It was a day filled with new experiences, familiar comforts, and a deeper connection to my roots.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Rimbaud's House & Museum and the Harari National Museum, continuing our exploration of this fascinating city. Lila is especially excited about Rimbaud's House, as she has been studying French poetry in school. I'm looking forward to delving deeper into the history and culture of Harar, uncovering more hidden gems and sharing them with my family.

For now, as I sit here reflecting on the day, I am filled with a sense of peace and contentment. Harar is more than just a place; it's a part of me, a connection to my past, and a bridge to the future. And as I drift off to sleep, I can't help but smile, knowing that this is just the beginning of our Harari adventure.

The weather in Harar today was mild and dry, typical for January. The days were sunny, making it perfect for exploring the city. The evenings were cool, but not too cold, making it comfortable for dining outdoors. I'm glad we packed layers, as the temperature fluctuated throughout the day.

Before I close, I should mention that I forgot to pack an adapter for Ethiopian plug sockets and a first aid kit. Luckily, my relatives had spares, but I'll need to remember to buy some tomorrow. In January 2025, there appears to be Harari Cultural Heritage Week, but it seems to have ended in February. It would have been wonderful to attend the traditional music and dance performances.

I'm looking forward to experiencing more of Harar's charm with my family tomorrow!