Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Day 1: Finding Peace at Kumano Hongu Taisha

Today marked the beginning of our family's pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo, a journey I've long dreamt of undertaking. Leaving behind the familiar sounds of Bamberg, Germany, we immersed ourselves in the tranquil heart of Japan, ready to explore the ancient trails and sacred sites of this UNESCO World Heritage site. As a restorer of historical musical instruments, I'm naturally drawn to places steeped in history and culture, and I knew this pilgrimage would resonate deeply with my soul.



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It was a delightful start, fueling us up with local flavors before our trek. The cafe was charming, and Kian, my son, was particularly fond of the pastries. Greta, ever the librarian, was already engrossed in a guidebook, pointing out interesting facts about the region. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast, savoring the delicate balance of flavors and the peaceful ambiance of the cafe.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, and today, our family took that step together on the sacred path of the Kumano Kodo.

After breakfast, we headed to Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. The shrine is the spiritual heart of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Climbing the 158 stone steps to the main building, I could feel the weight of centuries of history. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and cypress, and the fluttering streamers added to the mystical atmosphere. The main hall, with its magnificent thatched roof, was a sight to behold.




Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.

I learned that Kumano Hongu Taisha enshrines Izanagi-Okami and Ketsumimiko-Okami, deities who represent creation and benevolence. It's believed that emperors and nobles visited the shrine as early as the 9th century. The shrine was originally located at Oyunohara, a sandbank at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers, but was moved after a devastating flood in 1889.



Visiting Oyunohara was a truly humbling experience. The largest Torii gate in the world marks the entrance to this sacred site, standing at an impressive 33 meters tall. It symbolizes the division between the secular and spiritual worlds, and passing beneath it felt like stepping into another realm. I could imagine the shrine in its original location, a vibrant center of worship and pilgrimage. According to legend, the Kumano deities descended here in the form of three moons, resting on a giant oak tree.



We then took a leisurely stroll to Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. It was a great place to pick up some local crafts and snacks. Kian was fascinated by the various souvenirs, and Greta found a beautiful handcrafted teacup. I was particularly interested in the Otonashi-cha tea, a local specialty made from tea leaves grown in the surrounding villages. The tea is named after the Otonashi River, which flows through the area. According to the locals, tea cultivation in Kumano dates back to the late Heian period. I purchased a bag to bring back to Bamberg, eager to share a taste of Kumano with my friends.




Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

For lunch, we stopped at Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming spot known for its traditional tea and sweets. The teahouse is located in Fushiogami village, offering panoramic views of the valley below and Oyunohara. Pilgrims would often kneel and pray at this spot, catching their first glimpse of Kumano Hongu Taisha. The tea was exquisite, and the sweets provided a much-needed energy boost. It was a perfect opportunity to reflect on the spiritual significance of our journey.




Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

In the evening, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Hinoki Steak House. This restaurant is known for its Kumano beef and fresh grilled seafood. I opted for the Kumano beef steak, savoring the tender and flavorful meat. Greta enjoyed a seafood dish, and Kian devoured a juicy hamburger. The restaurant had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, making it a perfect end to our first day.




Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the experiences we had shared. Walking in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims, surrounded by the natural beauty of Kumano, was truly a transformative experience. I felt a deep sense of connection to the history and spirituality of this sacred place. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings as we prepare to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha and Nachi Waterfall.



Tomorrow, we plan to continue our pilgrimage towards Kumano-Nachi Taisha and the Nachi Waterfall. I am looking forward to the hike, although I know it will be more physically demanding. I am also excited to see the Nachi Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan, and visit the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. I've packed my camera and made sure to charge the portable charger, determined to capture the beauty of the falls. I also double-checked that we have enough sunscreen, not wanting to repeat yesterday's mistake.



As I prepared for sleep, I felt grateful for the opportunity to share this experience with my family. I hope that this pilgrimage will bring us closer together and deepen our understanding of Japanese culture and spirituality. I am also excited to share our experiences with you, my readers, and inspire you to embark on your own journey of discovery.