Solo Adventure to Phong Nha-Ke Bang: A Journey Through Vietnam's Natural Wonders

Beneath the Surface

Today was unlike any other. It was a day of exploration, of pushing boundaries, and of witnessing nature's artistry in its most raw and magnificent form. The destination? The mesmerizing depths of Hang Va and En Caves, nestled within the embrace of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. As a restorer of antique furniture, I'm used to seeing beauty in old, crafted things, but today, I was reminded that the greatest artist of all is, without a doubt, Mother Nature.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at ARTIST'S ZONE. Fuelled by a strong Vietnamese coffee and a delicious chicken salad, I felt ready to tackle the day's adventures. The air was crisp, a typical December morning in this part of Vietnam, with temperatures hovering between 16°C and 22°C. I made sure to pack my lightweight clothing with a warmer jacket, as advised, knowing the temperature inside the caves would be cooler.

The journey to Hang Va was an adventure in itself. The landscape transformed into a mesmerizing tapestry of limestone karsts and emerald-green foliage. It felt like stepping into a different world, a world sculpted by time and untouched by the hands of man. The anticipation grew with every passing mile, a feeling I haven't experienced since I first laid eyes on Astrid, my wife, during my study abroad program in Denmark so many years ago.


Explore the enchanting Hang Va Cave, a natural wonder in Quang Binh, Vietnam, filled with breathtaking formations and rich biodiversity.

Hang Va is not easily accessible, which only adds to its allure. The cave's remote location and challenging terrain make it a thrilling experience for those seeking something beyond the ordinary. It was discovered in 1992 by Ho Khanh, the same local man who found Hang Son Doong, and fully explored in 2012 by a British-Vietnamese expedition. This history resonates deeply with me, reminding me of the countless stories hidden within the antique pieces I restore in my workshop back in Silkeborg.

The earth has music for those who listen.

Inside Hang Va, I was immediately struck by the unique geological formations known as tower cones. These structures rise from pools of emerald-green water, creating an otherworldly landscape that feels almost surreal. The way the light played upon these formations, casting shadows and highlighting their intricate details, was simply breathtaking. I felt like an explorer in a forgotten world, a world that had been waiting patiently to be discovered.

Navigating through the cave required a bit of physical exertion, which I found quite invigorating. There were slippery rocks to clamber over, underground streams to wade through, and even a few sections where ropes and harnesses were necessary. It was a far cry from my quiet workshop in Denmark, but I embraced the challenge with open arms. This trip, after all, was about pushing my boundaries and experiencing something completely different.

After spending what felt like an eternity in the depths of Hang Va, it was time to move on to the next destination: En Cave. The transition from one cave to another was seamless, as if the earth itself was guiding me on this subterranean journey. En Cave, known as the third largest cave in the world, presented a different but equally awe-inspiring experience.


Discover the enchanting En Cave in Quang Binh Province, Vietnam, where nature's beauty meets adventure in a breathtaking underground world.

The sheer scale of En Cave is difficult to put into words. The main chamber is so vast that it could house an entire city block, and the sunlight filtering through the entrance created a magical ambiance that was both humbling and inspiring. I wandered through the cave in a state of awe, marveling at the towering stalactites, the glistening stalagmites, and the overall grandeur of this natural wonder.

As I explored, I couldn't help but think of my son, Lasse. He would have loved this adventure, scrambling over rocks and marveling at the strange and wonderful formations. Perhaps one day, when he's a bit older, I'll bring him back here to experience the magic of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park firsthand. For now, I'll have to settle for sharing my stories and photographs with him when I return to Silkeborg.

Leaving En Cave was bittersweet. I was exhausted but exhilarated, filled with a sense of accomplishment and gratitude for having had the opportunity to witness such incredible beauty. As the sun began to set, casting a warm glow over the landscape, I made my way back to Phong Nha town, my mind racing with memories of the day's adventures.

For lunch, I stopped by Phong Nha Rooftop Bar, where I enjoyed a simple but satisfying meal while taking in the panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The rooftop setting provided a perfect vantage point to reflect on the day's experiences and to soak in the beauty of the landscape.


Discover breathtaking views and authentic Mexican flavors at Phong Nha Rooftop Bar in Quang Binh Province, Vietnam.

Dinner was at The Villas Restaurant, a charming eatery nestled along the banks of the Son River. I opted for the Victory Burger, a recommendation I'd heard about, and it did not disappoint. As I savored each bite, I watched the river flow gently by, the water reflecting the twinkling lights of the town. The Villas Restaurant supports MAG, an organization dedicated to clearing unexploded ordinance, which resonated with me. It's comforting to know that my visit contributed in a small way to this important cause.


Discover exquisite Vietnamese cuisine amidst the natural beauty of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park at The Villas Restaurant.

The evening concluded with a visit to King Kong Bar Phong Nha, a lively spot where I enjoyed a few drinks and chatted with fellow travelers. The bar had a fun and adventurous atmosphere, and I found myself drawn into conversations with people from all corners of the globe. It was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about connecting with new people and sharing experiences.


Experience the lively nightlife at King Kong Bar Phong Nha, where fun meets adventure in the heart of Quang Binh Province.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel a sense of contentment. Today was a day of exploration, of adventure, and of profound connection with nature. I pushed my boundaries, challenged myself physically, and witnessed some of the most incredible sights I've ever seen. And as I drift off to sleep tonight, I know that the memories of Hang Va and En Caves will stay with me for a lifetime.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Elephant Cave and the HaVa Valley. I've heard whispers of their hidden beauty, and I am eager to uncover their secrets. Before that though, I'll grab breakfast at Lantern Vietnamese Restaurant, and maybe do some shopping at Lá Store. Until then, goodnight from Phong Nha!