Family Adventure Through the Eternal City: Rome

Tivoli: A Day of Roman Splendor

Today, we ventured beyond the bustling streets of Rome to discover the serene beauty and historical richness of Tivoli. This charming town, nestled in the hills, is home to two magnificent villas that offer a glimpse into the opulence of different eras of Roman history. It was a day of fountains, gardens, and architectural marvels, a refreshing escape from the city's intensity.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Retrobottega. I opted for a simple pastry and a strong espresso. Fueled up, we hopped on a train, and before I knew it, we were pulling into Tivoli, ready to explore.


Discover Retrobottega: A delightful fusion of traditional Italian cuisine and innovative dining experiences in the heart of Rome.

Villa d'Este: A Renaissance Dream

Our first stop was Villa d'Este, a UNESCO World Heritage site that exemplifies the grandeur of the Italian Renaissance. Commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este in the 16th century, the villa is a masterpiece of garden design, famous for its terraced hillside and elaborate water features. As a historical reenactor, I was immediately drawn to the villa's history. Cardinal d'Este wanted a villa that rivaled ancient Rome's splendor, and he certainly achieved that.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Villa d'Este in Tivoli, a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its stunning gardens and Renaissance architecture.

Walking through the gardens felt like stepping into a painting. Fountains gurgled and splashed at every turn, each more impressive than the last. The Vialone offered stunning views of the landscape, while the Oval Fountain and the Hundred Fountains showcased the ingenuity of Renaissance engineering. Oliver was absolutely thrilled, running from fountain to fountain, his laughter echoing through the gardens. Emily, ever the botanist, was captivated by the variety of plants and flowers, snapping photos and identifying species.

The Villa d'Este is a testament to the power of vision and the enduring allure of beauty, a place where art, nature, and history intertwine to create an unforgettable experience.

One of the most impressive features was the Fountain of the Organ, a hydraulic marvel that once played music. Although the original mechanism is no longer fully functional, it's easy to imagine the delight it must have brought to visitors centuries ago. We spent hours wandering through the gardens, discovering hidden grottoes and marveling at the intricate details of the sculptures and fountains. The Villa d'Este is not just a garden; it's a work of art, a testament to human creativity and the desire to create paradise on earth.

Hadrian's Villa: Echoes of an Emperor

After a delightful morning at Villa d'Este, we made our way to Hadrian's Villa, a sprawling complex built by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. This villa is a far cry from the manicured gardens of Villa d'Este; it's a vast archaeological site, a collection of ruins that hint at the grandeur of the Roman Empire. Hadrian, known for his love of travel and architecture, designed the villa to reflect the styles he encountered throughout his empire.


Discover the ancient opulence of Hadrian's Villa, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where history and beauty intertwine in a breathtaking landscape.

Exploring Hadrian's Villa felt like stepping back in time. The sheer scale of the complex is astounding, with remnants of palaces, baths, libraries, and temples scattered across the landscape. We wandered through the ruins of the Canopus, a long pool inspired by the Egyptian city of the same name, and admired the caryatids, sculpted female figures modeled after those on the Acropolis in Athens. As I walked through the ruins, I imagined Hadrian himself strolling through these halls, contemplating the fate of his empire.

Oliver, with his boundless energy, enjoyed exploring the ruins, climbing on fallen columns and imagining himself as a Roman soldier. Emily, with her keen eye for detail, pointed out the various architectural styles and discussed Hadrian's vision for the villa. As a family, we reveled in the opportunity to connect with history in such a tangible way.

Hadrian's Villa is more than just ruins; it's a window into the mind of an emperor, a glimpse into the vastness and complexity of the Roman world.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Hadrian's Villa is its innovative design. The domes of the steam baths have circular holes to allow steam to escape, a feature reminiscent of the Pantheon. The villa also has a network of underground tunnels, used to transport servants and goods from one area to another. These details offer a glimpse into the daily life of the imperial court and the ingenuity of Roman engineering.

Lunch in Tivoli: A Culinary Delight

After a morning of exploration, we were ready for a satisfying lunch. We chose Colline Emiliane, known for its fresh pasta. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, drawn by the promise of authentic Emilian cuisine. We started with a selection of salumi, followed by the restaurant's signature tagliatelle with ragù. The pasta was perfectly cooked, and the ragù was rich and flavorful, a true taste of Emilia-Romagna. Oliver devoured his pasta, declaring it the best he'd ever had. Emily and I savored every bite, appreciating the simplicity and quality of the ingredients.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at Colline Emiliane – where fresh pasta and tradition come together in the heart of Rome.

Shopping at Mercato Rionale Monti

Back in Rome, before dinner, Emily wanted to do some shopping, so we headed to Mercato Rionale Monti. This charming market is a hidden gem, offering a variety of fresh produce, artisanal products, and vintage items. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, with vendors chatting and laughing with customers. Emily found a beautiful scarf, while Oliver was fascinated by the colorful displays of fruits and vegetables. We even sampled some local cheeses and breads, a delicious taste of Roman gastronomy.


Explore Mercato Rionale Monti, Rome's vibrant market, where fresh produce and artisanal treasures come together in a delightful Italian culinary experience.

Dinner at PER ME - Giulio Terrinoni

For dinner, we had reservations at PER ME - Giulio Terrinoni, a Michelin-starred restaurant known for its innovative seafood cuisine. The restaurant is located in a charming corner of Rome, just a few steps from Via Giulia. The ambiance was elegant and intimate, with soft lighting and attentive service. We opted for the tasting menu, eager to experience Chef Terrinoni's culinary artistry.


Experience culinary artistry at PER ME - Giulio Terrinoni, where modern European cuisine meets fresh seafood in an elegant Roman setting.

Each dish was a work of art, a symphony of flavors and textures. The mackerel was caramelized to perfection, the burnt sugar neutralizing the strong taste of the fish. The roasted cuttlefish with Roman artichokes and sea urchin sauce was a revelation, the artichokes perfectly complementing the tender cuttlefish. Oliver, surprisingly, enjoyed the guinea fowl with creamed potatoes and pecorino cheese, while Emily raved about the vegetarian options. The meal was a culinary journey, a testament to Chef Terrinoni's skill and creativity.

Looking Ahead

As we head into our last full day in Rome, I'm excited to explore more hidden gems. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Basilica of San Clemente and the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace, two churches that promise to be rich in history and art. And in the evening, we'll be raising a glass at Almalu Trastevere, a bar known for its lively atmosphere. It's hard to believe our Roman adventure is coming to an end. But I know the memories we've made here will last a lifetime.

It appears that September is a busy month in Rome! I've just discovered that the Romaeuropa Festival is ongoing, as well as several food festivals celebrating local harvests. Perhaps we can squeeze in one more cultural experience before we leave!