Solo Cultural Exploration in Kanazawa

Kanazawa's Contrasts: Art, History, and a Little Bit of Beer

Today was a day of contrasts, a perfect blend of modern art and traditional charm that makes Kanazawa so captivating. I set out with a plan to soak in as much culture as possible, and I think I managed to pack quite a bit in! From thought-provoking art installations to the serene beauty of a historic district, and of course, some delightful culinary experiences, Kanazawa continued to impress.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Umi & Tsuchi. I must admit, finding the place was a bit of a challenge, tucked away as it was. The meal was delicious, a great way to fuel up for a day of exploring. It had a slightly modern take on classic French cuisine.


Discover exquisite Kaiseki dining at Umi & Tsuchi, where Kyoto's culinary traditions meet modern elegance in Kanazawa.

With a full stomach, I headed to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa. The museum itself is an architectural marvel, a circular glass building that feels incredibly open and inviting. The design encourages you to approach art from multiple directions, which I found quite refreshing.


Explore modern artistry at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa - a cultural gem of Japan's contemporary art scene.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Inside, the exhibits were a mixed bag, as contemporary art often is. Some pieces were challenging, pushing the boundaries of my understanding, while others were simply beautiful. Leandro Erlich's Swimming Pool was definitely a highlight, creating a surreal experience of being underwater. I spent a good while there, watching people pose and interact with the installation. It’s amazing how art can bring out the playful side in everyone. I also enjoyed James Turrell's Blue Planet Sky, an exhibit that explores light as a medium. It was a truly immersive experience, making me appreciate the simple beauty of the sky in a new way.

Leaving the museum, I felt creatively recharged, ready to dive into the historical side of Kanazawa. My next stop was the Higashi Chaya District, one of the city's best-preserved geisha districts. As I wandered through the narrow streets, I was transported back to the Edo period. The traditional wooden buildings with their latticed windows exuded an air of elegance and mystery.


Explore Kanazawa's enchanting Higashi Chaya District: a preserved geisha district with Edo-era architecture, teahouses, and gold leaf crafts.

It's fascinating to think that these streets were once the center of entertainment for wealthy merchants and nobility. I visited Ochaya Shima, a former geisha teahouse that now serves as a museum. It offered a glimpse into the lives of geiko (the Kanazawa term for geisha) and the artistry that went into their performances. The intricate hair ornaments, musical instruments, and tableware on display were a testament to the rich cultural heritage of this district.

I also learned that Higashi Chaya district was established in 1820 as a place for geiko to entertain wealthy merchants with music, dance and games.

For lunch, I ventured to Sushi Ippei, a small sushi restaurant tucked away in an alley. It was a bit of a hunt to find it, but well worth the effort. The sushi was incredibly fresh, and the chef's skillful preparation was a joy to watch. I opted for a selection of local fish, each piece melting in my mouth with exquisite flavor. It was a truly authentic experience, a far cry from the conveyor belt sushi I'm used to back in Halifax.


Experience authentic Japanese sushi at Sushi Ippei, where fresh ingredients meet culinary artistry in Kanazawa's vibrant dining scene.

In the late afternoon, with a craving for something other than Japanese cuisine, I found myself at Oriental Brewing. This craft beer bar offered a welcome change of pace. I sampled a couple of their locally brewed beers, each with its unique flavor profile. It was a great spot to relax and reflect on the day's adventures. Apparently, they also serve Neapolitan pizza, which I'll have to try next time.


Explore Oriental Brewing: A Craft Beer Paradise in Kanazawa with Unique Brews, Delicious Pizzas, and a Cozy Atmosphere.

As evening approached, I made my way to Iki-iki Tei for dinner. Located in Omicho Market, this restaurant is known for its kaisen-don (seafood rice bowl). I ordered a bowl piled high with fresh seafood, a true feast for the senses. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the flavors were vibrant and delicious. It was the perfect way to end a day of culinary exploration.


Discover authentic sushi at Iki-iki Tei in Kanazawa – where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

Before heading back to the Henn na Hotel Kanazawa Korinbo, I took a stroll through the streets near Korinbo, where the Korinbo Tree Fantasy illumination event was underway. The zelkova trees were adorned with thousands of lights, creating a magical atmosphere. It was a beautiful sight, a perfect way to cap off an already incredible day.


Discover the charm of Kanazawa with a comfortable stay at Henn na Hotel Kanazawa Korinbo, featuring modern amenities and a prime location.

Tomorrow, I plan to delve deeper into Kanazawa's samurai history with visits to the Nomura-ke Samurai Heritage Residence and the Nagamachi District. I'm also looking forward to trying breakfast at Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café, lunch at Teppanyaki makibi san-an, and dinner at Fuwari. And, of course, I'll be sure to check out the Ishikawa Local Products Center for some souvenirs.

It's funny, I almost forgot that I didn't pack a Japanese phrasebook. It would've been handy in a few situations today, but I managed to get by with a smile and a lot of pointing. Also, my portable charger would've been useful, as my phone battery was running low by the end of the day. Note to self: remember these essentials for the rest of the trip!

Until tomorrow, Kanazawa!

P.S. Arsenal played today, and while I couldn't watch the match live, I did manage to catch the highlights. A 2-1 victory – a great end to a great day!