Solo Cultural Exploration of Shikoku Island

Echoes of History and Tranquility

Today was a day of contrasts, a harmonious blend of historical grandeur and soothing relaxation. Shikoku Island continues to reveal its treasures, and I am finding myself increasingly captivated by its unique blend of old and new. From scaling castle heights to sinking into the depths of ancient hot springs, it was a day that spoke to both my adventurous spirit and my need for moments of calm.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at Inonakanokawazu. It was a quaint little place, and I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast. Fuelled, I set off to conquer Matsuyama Castle.


Experience the grandeur of Matsuyama Castle, a historic fortress showcasing Japan's rich heritage and stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Matsuyama Castle: A Journey Through Time

Approaching Matsuyama Castle, I was immediately struck by its imposing presence. Perched atop Mount Katsuyama, it dominates the city skyline, a stoic reminder of centuries past. The ascent itself was an experience; I chose the ropeway, which offered panoramic views of Matsuyama unfolding beneath me. I could have taken the chairlift, or even walked, but the ropeway seemed the most efficient way to get to the top, given how eager I was to start exploring.
Stepping onto the castle grounds felt like stepping back in time. Matsuyama Castle is one of only twelve original castles in Japan, having survived the Edo period relatively unscathed. Built in the early 17th century by Kato Yoshiaki, it later became home to the Matsudaira family, who ruled until the end of the feudal era. I learned that the castle had burned down in 1784 after being struck by lightning but was reconstructed in 1852. This history of destruction and renewal speaks volumes about the resilience of the Japanese spirit.
Exploring the castle keep, I was impressed by the ingenious defensive design, with its hidden gates, towering stone walls, and intricate containment zones. Inside, the museum displayed an array of historical artifacts, including armor, weapons, and ancient blueprints. As I climbed to the top floor, I was rewarded with breathtaking views of downtown Matsuyama, the surrounding mountains, and the Seto Inland Sea. The castle is truly a masterwork of castle defenses. It is easy to imagine feudal lords surveying their domain from this strategic vantage point.
I also explored Shiroyama Park and Ninomaru Historical Garden, located at the base of Mount Katsuyama. Shiroyama Park offered recreational spaces and beautiful castle views, while Ninomaru Historical Garden showcased the layout of the lord's residence and offices. Wandering through these gardens provided a tranquil contrast to the imposing castle above.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

After a morning steeped in history, I was ready for a change of pace. Lunch at Eki-mae Shokudo was just what I needed. This cozy restaurant near the station offered a variety of traditional dishes. I opted for a hearty bowl of udon noodles, savoring the local flavors and the warm, welcoming atmosphere of the eatery. I found it interesting that the restaurant sources seasonal ingredients from the surrounding Kochi region, which made my meal feel even more authentic.

Dogo Onsen: A Soothing Retreat

The afternoon was dedicated to relaxation at Dogo Onsen, one of Japan's oldest and most revered hot springs. With a history stretching back over 3,000 years, Dogo Onsen is steeped in legend and tradition. According to one tale, a wounded egret discovered the healing waters, inspiring locals to bathe in the spring and experience its restorative powers.

Discover the serene beauty and historic charm of Dogo Onsen Main Building, a must-visit onsen in Matsuyama, Japan, rich in culture and relaxation.
The Dogo Onsen Main Building, a majestic wooden structure built in 1894, is the symbol of the onsen. It's said to have inspired the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli's *Spirited Away*. The building has been designated as an Important Cultural Property, and it recently underwent a 5.5-year renovation, completed in July 2024.
I chose to immerse myself in the full Dogo Onsen experience. I opted for the Level 4 ticket, which granted me access to the Tama no Yu bath and a private tatami room on the third floor. Before my bath, I took time to wander around and look at everything, as the area is known for its biggest charms. I savored the opportunity to relax in a traditional setting.
As I soaked in the mineral-rich waters, I felt my muscles unwind and my mind quiet. The onsen's alkaline waters, with their blend of sodium, calcium, and magnesium, were incredibly soothing. I spent time reflecting on the day's adventures and the unique cultural experiences I was privileged to have. I learned that Dogo Onsen was a favorite retreat of writer Natsume Sōseki, who featured it in his novel *Botchan*.
Emerging from the onsen, I felt refreshed and rejuvenated. I strolled through the surrounding streets in my yukata, soaking in the atmosphere of this charming resort town.

Evening Delights

For dinner, I ventured to Amekaze Shokudo, drawn by its reputation for local cuisine. The atmosphere was cozy, and the menu featured a variety of dishes. I savored the flavors of the region, reflecting on the day's journey through history and tranquility.

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Amekaze Shokudo, where delightful dishes meet stunning views of rice fields in Nankoku.
To cap off the evening, I decided to explore Matsuyama's nightlife. I found myself at the Irish Pub Amontillado. Although an Irish pub might seem out of place in Japan, it was a welcome respite, a chance to unwind and enjoy a familiar atmosphere. I enjoyed a pint of Guinness, chatting with fellow travelers and locals alike. I learned that the pub is known for its excellent local craft beer selection, though I stuck with my usual. The friendly staff and relaxed vibe made it the perfect spot to end the day.

Discover the charm of Irish Pub Amontillado in Kochi, where traditional izakaya meets the warmth of Irish hospitality, offering a unique dining experience.
As I walked back to my guesthouse, the city lights twinkling around me, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences I had today. Matsuyama had offered a perfect blend of history, relaxation, and cultural immersion. It was a day that nourished both body and soul.
Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of Shikoku Island's cultural and artistic side, with visits to the Otsuka Museum of Art and the Bizan Ropeway. I am looking forward to what new discoveries await.