Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Spiritual Footsteps Along Ancient Paths

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and profound connection to the history and spirituality of the Kumano Kodo. Leaving behind the comforts of Jokiin after a hearty breakfast, I set out to explore sites that have resonated with pilgrims for centuries. The air was thick with humidity, a familiar embrace in this subtropical climate, but the promise of discovery spurred me onward.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

My first destination was Oyunohara, the original location of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. It's hard to imagine the scale of what once stood there; a sprawling complex of shrines and sacred spaces. A devastating flood in 1889 swept away much of the original structures, which were then relocated to higher ground. What remains today is a vast, open space marked by the Otorii, a colossal torii gate that is the largest in Japan. Standing beneath it, I felt dwarfed not just by its size, but by the weight of history and faith it represents. The gate signifies the division between the secular and spiritual worlds, and passing through it felt like stepping into a realm of reverence.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a revered Shinto shrine and the starting point of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes.

I spent a good hour wandering around Oyunohara, trying to visualize what it must have been like in its heyday. The stillness of the area was broken only by the occasional rustling of leaves and the distant chirping of birds. Two small stone shrines stand as quiet reminders of the past. I took a moment to offer a prayer for continued strength and guidance on my journey. It's interesting to note that the symbol of a three-legged crow, Yatagarasu, is found here, a messenger of the sun goddess Amaterasu in Japanese mythology. It's also the symbol used by the Japan Football Association, representing strength and direction.

Leaving Oyunohara, I made my way towards Tsugizakura-Oji, another significant site along the Kumano Kodo. The trail leading to the shrine was a bit of a climb, with steep steps that tested my resolve. As I ascended, I was surrounded by towering cedar trees, some estimated to be around 800 years old. These ancient trees created a cathedral-like atmosphere, their branches reaching towards the sky like vaulted ceilings. It was easy to feel a sense of awe and reverence in such a place.


Experience tranquility and cultural heritage at Tsugizakura-Oji, a captivating Shinto shrine in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

Tsugizakura-Oji itself is a charming shrine, known for its giant cedar trees. The name Tsugizakura means grafted cherry tree. One unique feature is that the branches of the cedars all point south, towards Nachi Falls and what is considered the paradise of Kannon. This is called “ipposugi,” meaning “one direction cedars”. The shrine was almost demolished in 1906 as part of a government program, but it was saved by Minakata Kumagusu, an environmentalist who opposed the shrine mergers because they destroyed biodiversity and local beliefs.

After exploring Tsugizakura-Oji, I stopped for lunch at Watarase Onsen Cafe, a welcome respite after the morning's hike. The cafe offered simple but satisfying fare, and I enjoyed a light meal while soaking in the tranquil atmosphere. Watarase Onsen itself is a large complex with onsen, a restaurant, and a hotel. Though newer than some of the other onsen in the area, it is known for its large outdoor baths.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are not about the destinations we reach, but the spaces we create within ourselves along the way.

As the afternoon wore on, I made my way back towards Hongu, reflecting on the day's experiences. The Kumano Kodo has a way of stripping away the unnecessary, leaving you with a sense of clarity and purpose. It's not just a physical journey, but a spiritual one, a chance to connect with something larger than yourself.

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Hinoki Steak House. After days of more humble fare, the idea of a good steak was too tempting to resist. The restaurant has a reputation for its high-quality Kumano beef, and it did not disappoint. I opted for a set menu that included a perfectly cooked steak, grilled vegetables, and rice. The beef was tender and flavorful, a true indulgence. The chef prepares the steaks right in front of you. It was the perfect way to end a day of pilgrimage.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Though I was tempted to extend the evening at HANGOVER bar, an American-themed establishment, I decided to turn in early. The Kumano Kodo has a way of encouraging a slower pace of life, and I found myself drawn to the quiet solitude of my lodgings. Tomorrow, I plan to tackle more of the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route and visit the Fushiogami Teahouse. I might also stop by the Kumano Kodo Information Center to learn more about the area.


Experience the taste of classic American diner cuisine at Hangover in Tanabe, where every meal is a comforting delight.

As I drifted off to sleep, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a pathway to self-discovery and inner peace. I'm looking forward to continuing my journey tomorrow, with an open heart and a renewed sense of purpose. I am also grateful that Priya, Devon, and my software team back in Toronto are doing well, and will see them soon.

The summer heat continues to be intense, making the journey physically demanding. I am glad I packed my hiking boots, rain jacket, and travel journal. I still wish I had remembered to bring a portable charger.