Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Following the Footsteps of Emperors

Today, on the seventh day of my solo pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, I walked in the footsteps of emperors and ancient pilgrims, traversing a section of the Nakahechi Route steeped in history and natural beauty. The air was thick with humidity, a typical August day here in Wakayama, but the spiritual energy of the path kept me invigorated. It's incredible to think that for over a thousand years, people have walked this very trail, seeking solace, enlightenment, or simply a connection to something greater than themselves.

My day began with a hearty and traditional Japanese breakfast at Jokiin, my accommodation in Koya. A comforting meal of rice, miso soup, and pickles set the tone for a day of mindful exploration.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
After breakfast, I took a train and bus to the Kumano Kodo Information Center. I wanted to gather some maps and pamphlets, as well as get any last-minute tips from the local experts before embarking on the trail. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing insights into the route and the significance of the various Oji shrines along the way.


Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.
Equipped with knowledge and a sense of purpose, I started my trek along the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. The path wound through dense forests of cedar and cypress, the sunlight filtering through the canopy creating an ethereal glow. The Nakahechi route, also known as the Imperial Route, has been travelled by emperors, aristocrats, and common people for over 1,000 years. It's historical significance is deeply tied to Japanese spiritual beliefs and cultural practices, making it a unique, enriching experience as I walk in the footsteps of pilgrims who came before me. The rhythmic sound of my hiking boots on the ancient stones was a meditative soundtrack to my journey. I passed small Jizo statues, adorned with red bibs, silently watching over the travelers.

The forest itself becomes a temple, each step a prayer.

One of the highlights of the day was visiting the Fushiogami Teahouse. Nestled amidst tea plantations, this charming teahouse offered stunning mountain views and a welcome respite. I savored a cup of matcha tea and a traditional Japanese sweet, taking in the tranquility of the surroundings.


Experience tranquility and authentic Japanese tea culture at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe, Wakayama, a perfect retreat for every traveler.
It was easy to imagine weary pilgrims of centuries past finding solace in this very spot, their spirits lifted by the beauty of the landscape. This route is known as the shrine with a water source.
As I continued my journey, I stopped for lunch at Sukiya R42 Kumano, a local restaurant that offered a variety of Japanese dishes. I opted for a simple but delicious bowl of ramen, replenishing my energy for the afternoon's hike.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Sukiya R42 Kumano, where delicious meals await in a cozy family-friendly setting.
The restaurant was bustling with locals and fellow travelers, creating a sense of camaraderie and shared experience. I learned that the most popular choice for hikers of the Kumano Kodo is the Nakahechi Route.
After lunch, I pressed on towards my final destination for the day, Kakinoate. I decided to stop here for dinner. This persimmon leaf sushi specialty shop is located in front of the torii gate to Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.
I enjoyed the handmade sushi and soba noodles.
As the sun began to set, casting long shadows across the mountains, I reflected on the day's experiences. The Kumano Kodo had once again worked its magic, weaving its spell of tranquility and spiritual connection. I am looking forward to tomorrow, where I plan to cross the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass and visit the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. I hear the views are spectacular, and I'm eager to challenge myself further on this ancient pilgrimage route.
I'm also looking forward to trying some local wine at the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. It will be a well-deserved treat after another day of hiking. I am sure Priya and Devon would have loved to explore the Kumano Kodo with me, but I am also grateful for this time of solo reflection and immersion in Japanese culture. I am missing them though and looking forward to sharing my stories with them when I get back to Toronto. I am also hoping to try some Kumano beef while I am here.
Tomorrow, I plan to rise early and continue my trek, embracing whatever challenges and rewards the path may hold. The Kumano Kodo has a way of stripping away the unnecessary, leaving you with a profound appreciation for the simple things in life: nature, connection, and the enduring power of the human spirit.
I have to admit, I'm a little concerned about the weather forecast for tomorrow. It seems August in Kumano Kodo means high temperatures and humidity, with a good chance of rain. I'll be sure to pack my rain jacket and stay hydrated. But even if the skies are gray, I know the beauty and spiritual energy of this place will shine through.