Family Adventure on Shikoku Island

Whispers of the Past in Iya Valley

Today, we journeyed deep into the heart of Shikoku, a land where time seems to slow down, and the whispers of ancient clans echo through the valleys. The Iya Valley, a remote and mountainous region in western Tokushima Prefecture, promised a day of cultural immersion and natural beauty, and it certainly delivered. With Hans and Saoirse in tow, I was eager to explore the historic vine bridges and delve into the folklore of the Heike clan.


Experience the breathtaking vistas and rich cultural heritage of Iya Valley, a hidden gem in Tokushima, Japan, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Joyfull Kochi Otsu Shop. While it wasn't the most traditional start to our exploration of Iya Valley, it was a convenient and family-friendly option that fueled us up for the adventures ahead. After breakfast, we set off towards the Iya Valley, a drive that in itself was a treat, with winding roads revealing breathtaking vistas at every turn.

Our first stop was the famed Vine Bridge in the Iya Valley, or Iya Kazurabashi. As we approached, I could see the bridge stretching across the Iya River, a delicate structure of woven vines suspended high above the water. The history of these bridges is shrouded in mystery, with some claiming they were built by Kobo Daishi, a Buddhist monk, while others believe they were constructed by the Heike clan as a means of escape. Whatever their origins, these bridges were once vital for crossing the Iya River.


Explore the enchanting Vine Bridge in the Iya Valley, a stunning testament to Japan's natural beauty and traditional craftsmanship.

Saoirse was a little nervous, but also excited, as we approached the entrance. I purchased our tickets – 550 yen each – and we stepped onto the bridge, one at a time. The wooden slats were narrow, and the gaps between them offered a thrilling, if slightly unnerving, view of the river below. With each step, the bridge swayed gently, adding to the sense of adventure. Hans, ever the pragmatist, pointed out the steel cables hidden within the vines, reassuring us of the bridge's safety.

The Iya Valley is a place where the past and present intertwine, where the echoes of ancient clans resonate through the mountains, and where the simple act of crossing a vine bridge becomes a journey through time.

As we walked across, I couldn't help but imagine what life must have been like for those who relied on these bridges centuries ago. The valley is known for its steep mountain slopes and rocky gorges, making it a secluded refuge for those seeking to escape the turmoil of the outside world.

After conquering the Vine Bridge, we drove further into the valley, our next destination being the Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore. This museum is dedicated to preserving the history and traditions of the Heike clan, who, after their defeat in the Genpei War, sought refuge in this remote region. The museum is housed in a traditional thatched-roof building, which in itself is a piece of living history.


Explore the Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore, where the intriguing tales of Japan's Heike clan come alive through captivating exhibits and serene surroundings.

Inside, we found a treasure trove of artifacts, historical documents, and exhibits that brought the story of the Heike clan to life. We learned about Horikawa Naiki, a doctor to the young Emperor Antoku, who fled to Iya with the remaining members of the Heike clan. He served as a doctor and oracle in the region, utilizing the area's abundant medicinal herbs.

Saoirse was particularly fascinated by the displays of armor and weaponry, while Hans was engrossed in the ancient documents that detailed the clan's history. I was moved by the stories of resilience and survival, of a people who, despite facing defeat, managed to carve out a new life for themselves in this isolated valley. The museum provided a unique glimpse into the life and legacy of one of Japan's most storied families.

After immersing ourselves in the history of the Heike clan, it was time for lunch. We stopped at Ombelico, a local restaurant that came highly recommended. The restaurant offered a variety of dishes, and we opted for some local specialties. The food was delicious, and the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant made it a perfect spot to relax and refuel.


Discover Ombelico in Tosa: where authentic Italian cuisine meets Japanese hospitality for an unforgettable dining experience.

Before heading back, we made a quick stop at Plugs Market Kochi Store. I was hoping to find a raincoat, since I had forgotten to pack one, but I was out of luck. However, the store did have a fascinating collection of local crafts and souvenirs, and Saoirse was thrilled to find a cute little trinket to remind her of our trip.


Explore the vibrant Plugs Market Kochi Store for unique gifts, trendy cosmetics, and eclectic home goods in the heart of Kochi.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to our accommodation, reflecting on the incredible experiences we had shared. The Iya Valley had captivated us with its natural beauty, its rich history, and its sense of timelessness. It was a day of cultural immersion, of stepping back in time, and of connecting with the stories of those who came before us.

Tomorrow, we'll be heading to Matsuyama, where we plan to visit Matsuyama Castle and relax at the Dogo Onsen Main Building. I'm already looking forward to exploring another facet of Shikoku's charm. Perhaps we'll stop by Yoronotaki Gomenten for breakfast before hitting the road, and maybe even cap off the day with a drink at Irish Pub Amontillado after dinner at Amekaze Shokudo. For now, though, I'm content to savor the memories of our day in the Iya Valley, a place that will forever hold a special place in my heart.

The Iya Valley is more than just a scenic destination; it's a living testament to the resilience of the human spirit and the enduring power of tradition. It's a place where you can lose yourself in the beauty of nature, connect with the stories of the past, and discover a deeper appreciation for the simple things in life.

As we prepare for our next adventure, I'm reminded of a quote by John Muir:

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

And indeed, the Iya Valley had given us far more than we had sought. It had given us a glimpse into the soul of Shikoku, a glimpse into the heart of Japan.