Family Adventure on Shikoku Island

Exploring Kochi's Heart and Soul

Today was a day of immersion into the local culture of Kochi. From the majestic Kochi Castle to the bustling Sunday Market and the delightful local eateries, we experienced the true essence of this charming city. It’s amazing how much you can learn about a place just by wandering through its streets and tasting its food.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Eel Farm Unagiya. I had heard so much about their grilled eel, and it certainly lived up to the hype. The restaurant itself was a cozy space, reflecting traditional Japanese aesthetics. The unagi donburi was the star – succulent pieces of grilled eel served over a bed of steaming rice, drizzled with a sweet soy-based sauce. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. Hans, Saoirse and I all agreed that it was the best eel we had ever tasted. I made a mental note to try and recreate the sauce when we get back to Berlin, though I suspect it won’t taste quite the same without the fresh Japanese ingredients. It reminded me of our little garden back in Berlin, where I try to grow some of my own herbs – a little piece of home away from home.

With our bellies full, we set off to Kochi Castle. As we approached, the castle stood proudly on Otakayama hill, a symbol of Kochi's rich history. Built in the early 17th century by Yamauchi Kazutoyo, it’s one of the few original castles remaining in Japan. The castle has been designated as an Important National Cultural Property. We climbed the steps to the main keep, admiring the intricate details of the architecture. The statues of the shachi sea creatures, half fish, half dragon, gazing down from the roof, were particularly fascinating.


Explore the stunning Kochi Castle, a historical gem in Japan, showcasing beautiful architecture and rich samurai heritage amidst picturesque gardens.
From the top of the castle tower, we were rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view of Kochi City. Saoirse was especially impressed, pointing out various landmarks and excitedly taking photos. It was a clear day, and the city stretched out before us, a mix of modern buildings and traditional houses. I couldn't help but imagine what it must have been like to live here centuries ago, when feudal lords ruled the land. Hans, ever the history buff, regaled us with tales of the Yamauchi clan and their role in the region's governance.

Visiting Kochi Castle is like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse into Japan's feudal past and the enduring spirit of its people.

After exploring the castle, we strolled towards the Kochi Sunday Market. This market has been a part of life in Kochi City for over 300 years. Stretching for 1.3 kilometers along Otesuji Street, it’s one of the oldest and largest Sunday markets in Japan. The market is held every Sunday, except when it falls during the New Year and the Yosakoi Festival. The Yosakoi Festival is held every August in Kochi. Luckily we were able to visit the market today.


Discover the lively atmosphere of Kochi Sunday Market, where local flavors, crafts, and culture come together in a vibrant street market experience.
The atmosphere was electric, with locals and tourists alike browsing the hundreds of stalls. We wandered through the crowds, taking in the sights, sounds, and smells of the market. There were stalls selling everything from fresh produce and flowers to handicrafts and local snacks. I was particularly drawn to the food stalls, where vendors were offering only-in-Kochi treats like aisukurin (a local version of sorbet) and inaka-sushi (countryside-style sushi made with preserved veggies).

We sampled some of the local delicacies, including imo-ten (sweet potato tempura) and fruit tomatoes. The imo-ten was fluffy and sweet, while the fruit tomatoes were incredibly juicy and flavorful. Saoirse, of course, made a beeline for the aisukurin, declaring it the perfect summer treat. Hans, always on the lookout for unique souvenirs, purchased a hand-forged Tosa kitchen knife, a craft that has been the pride of Kochi for over 400 years. The vendors were friendly and passionate about their products, eager to share their knowledge and stories. It felt like a true community gathering, a place where locals and visitors could connect and celebrate the region's culture. As we walked through the market, I felt a sense of connection to the local culture, a feeling that’s hard to replicate in a museum or historical site.

For lunch, we decided to try Osusowake Shokudo Mado. This cafeteria is known for its commitment to using local ingredients and reducing food waste. The owner, Ms. Chimi Suyama, sources vegetables from local farmers and creates daily menus based on what she receives. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, with families and locals gathering around tables to enjoy a simple, home-cooked meal.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Osusowake Shokudo Mado in Kami, Kochi - where tradition meets flavor in every dish.
I ordered the daily special, which was a chicken piccata served with rice and miso soup. The flavors were simple but delicious, and I could taste the freshness of the ingredients. Hans opted for a traditional Japanese set meal, while Saoirse chose a rice bowl with seasonal vegetables. The food was comforting and nourishing, a welcome change from the richer flavors we had been indulging in. It was a reminder of the importance of simple, wholesome meals, something I often strive for in my own cooking. I was also touched by the story of the cafeteria, how it serves as a community hub, providing affordable meals for children and families in need. It’s inspiring to see people using food as a way to connect and support one another.

In the late afternoon, we took a break from sightseeing and headed to AEON MALL Kochi. Saoirse was eager to do some shopping, and I must admit, I was curious to see what a Japanese shopping mall was like. The mall was expansive, featuring a variety of stores ranging from international brands like H&M and Uniqlo to local boutiques. Saoirse spent hours browsing the clothing stores, while Hans and I explored the electronics section. We picked up a few souvenirs and some snacks for the road. It was a typical shopping mall experience, but it was interesting to see how it was adapted to Japanese culture. The mall also has a variety of restaurants.


Discover the vibrant shopping experience at AEON MALL Kochi, featuring top brands, delicious dining, and exciting entertainment options.
For dinner, we decided to try Cafe Restaurant Furari. This restaurant is located within a roadside station in Nankoku City, and it’s known for its diverse menu featuring local specialties. The interior was modern and inviting, with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. We ordered the seared bonito set meal, which was highly recommended. The bonito was fresh and flavorful, and the set meal included a variety of side dishes that showcased the region's culinary heritage. Hans tried the Tosa Jiro egg Kamatama Udon Tempura set, while Saoirse opted for a rice bowl with fried moray eel. The portions were generous, and the prices were reasonable. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Kochi's culinary delights.


Experience the fusion of Japanese flavors and Western cuisine at Café Rest 風良里 in Nankoku - a must-visit for culinary enthusiasts.
As we headed back to our accommodation, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the historic Kochi Castle to the vibrant Sunday Market and the delicious local eateries, we had immersed ourselves in the heart and soul of Kochi. It was a day of discovery, connection, and celebration of local culture. I am so glad that we took the time to explore this charming city, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

Tomorrow, we are planning to visit the Ōtsuka Museum of Art and the Shikoku Automobile Museum. Afterwards, we will have breakfast at Joyfull Kochi Otsu Shop, lunch at Cooking Studio Kura and dinner at Tenmanjuu. Hans is especially excited about the automobile museum, while Saoirse is looking forward to seeing the art museum. As for me, I am eager to experience more of Shikoku's unique culture and traditions. Before that, Hans and I will visit Bar Salvador for a drink [if Saoirse is asleep].

“Travel is more than seeing sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” – Miriam Beard