Solo Adventure in Enchanting Sintra

Day 3: Chasing the Edge of Europe: A Day of Coastal Wonders in Sintra

Discover the rugged beauty of Sintra's coastline, from dramatic cliffs to hidden beaches, on a solo adventure to Cape Roca and beyond.

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Where Land Ends and Adventure Begins


Today’s journey was all about embracing the raw, untamed beauty of Sintra’s coastline. Leaving the fairytale palaces behind for a day, I set out to explore the westernmost point of continental Europe and the hidden gems that lie along the rugged shores. It was a day of windswept vistas, challenging trails, and the kind of solitude that feeds the soul. As much as I love Berlin, sometimes a girl just needs to feel the ocean breeze and the thrill of standing on the edge of the world.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Apeadeiro. I opted for a traditional Portuguese pastry and strong coffee, fueling up for the adventures that lay ahead. I had read some great reviews, and being so close to Sintra Green Chalet Bed & Breakfast where I am staying made it an obvious choice. The warm welcome and tasty food was the perfect way to start my day.

Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Apeadeiro in Sintra - where every dish tells a story.
Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Apeadeiro in Sintra - where every dish tells a story.

With my stomach full, I hopped on a bus headed towards Cape Roca. As the bus wound its way through the hills, the landscape transformed from lush greenery to a more barren, windswept terrain. I could feel the anticipation building as we approached our destination. I remembered a quote I once read about Ireland, my home, and its rugged beauty, and it struck me how similar it was to what I was seeing out the window. It's something that fills me with pride, a sense of belonging to a place where nature reigns supreme.

Finally, I arrived at Cape Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. Stepping off the bus, I was immediately greeted by a fierce wind that whipped through my hair and stung my cheeks. The views were nothing short of breathtaking. Towering cliffs plunged dramatically into the churning Atlantic Ocean, the waves crashing against the rocks below with a thunderous roar. The air was thick with the scent of salt and the cries of seagulls circling overhead. I took a moment to simply stand there, breathing in the wild, untamed energy of the place.

Discover the breathtaking beauty of Cape Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe, where stunning cliffs meet the mighty Atlantic Ocean.
Discover the breathtaking beauty of Cape Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe, where stunning cliffs meet the mighty Atlantic Ocean.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not in grand monuments, but in the simple act of witnessing the power and beauty of nature.


I visited the Farol do Cabo da Roca, the lighthouse that stands sentinel over this dramatic coastline. I learned that it began operating in 1772, and is one of the oldest lighthouses on the Portuguese coast. It has been updated many times over the years, and automated in 1990. It’s a stoic and impressive structure.

Explore Cabo da Roca, the breathtaking westernmost point of Europe, where dramatic cliffs meet the endless Atlantic Ocean in stunning natural beauty.
Explore Cabo da Roca, the breathtaking westernmost point of Europe, where dramatic cliffs meet the endless Atlantic Ocean in stunning natural beauty.

After soaking in the views from Cape Roca, I decided to embark on a hike to Praia da Ursa, a secluded beach said to be one of the most beautiful in Portugal. The trail was steep and challenging, winding its way down the cliffs and through a rocky landscape. I was glad I'd worn my comfortable walking shoes, one of the trip essentials I remembered to pack! As I descended, the views became even more spectacular, with glimpses of the golden sand and turquoise waters of Praia da Ursa below. I had read that the path could be treacherous, and I definitely had to watch my step. I was glad I didn't forget my travel insurance! It's always better to be safe than sorry, especially when you're tackling a challenging hike like this one.

Experience the untouched beauty of Praia da Ursa, a serene beach in Portugal's Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, where cliffs meet crystal waters.
Experience the untouched beauty of Praia da Ursa, a serene beach in Portugal's Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, where cliffs meet crystal waters.

Reaching Praia da Ursa was like stepping into another world. The beach was small and secluded, surrounded by towering cliffs and dramatic rock formations. The sand was soft and golden, and the water was crystal clear. Despite the chilly January weather, I couldn't resist dipping my toes in the ocean. The waves were strong, and the currents looked treacherous, so I didn't venture out too far. I spent some time simply relaxing on the beach, soaking in the sun and enjoying the solitude. It was the perfect place to escape the crowds and reconnect with nature. I could see how the beach got its name; one of the rock formations really does look like a bear holding a cub!

As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, I reluctantly started the climb back up the cliffs. The hike was even more challenging on the way up, but the views were worth every step. I paused frequently to catch my breath and take in the scenery, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such a beautiful and unique place. By the time I reached the top, my legs were aching, but my spirit was soaring.

Before heading back to Sintra, I stopped at Queijadas da Sapa to sample the local specialty, Queijadas de Sintra. These small, slightly caramelized tarts are made with fresh cheese, eggs, sugar, and a hint of cinnamon. I bought a few to take back to the hotel, savoring the sweet taste as I reflected on the day's adventures. I had read that Queijadas da Sapa was the original home of the pastry, founded in 1756, so I knew I had to try it. I wasn't disappointed!

Discover the authentic flavors of Sintra at Queijadas da Sapa, where every pastry tells a story of tradition and taste.
Discover the authentic flavors of Sintra at Queijadas da Sapa, where every pastry tells a story of tradition and taste.

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Tulhas, a restaurant known for its traditional Portuguese cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a warm atmosphere and friendly staff. I ordered the bacalhau com natas, a creamy codfish dish that was absolutely delicious. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Sintra's coastline. I had read that the owner makes you feel like you are dining in his own dining room, and that was certainly true. I felt right at home.

Experience authentic Portuguese flavors in Sintra at Tulhas gastropub – where tradition meets culinary excellence.
Experience authentic Portuguese flavors in Sintra at Tulhas gastropub – where tradition meets culinary excellence.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post from the comfort of my hotel room, I can still feel the wind in my hair and the salt on my skin. Today was a reminder that sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are the ones that require a little effort. The hike to Praia da Ursa was challenging, but the beauty of the beach made it all worthwhile. Standing on the edge of Europe at Cape Roca was a humbling experience, a reminder of the vastness and power of nature. And the simple pleasure of savoring a Queijada de Sintra after a long day of exploring was the perfect way to end the day.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Chalet of the Countess of Edla and Villa Sassetti, immersing myself once again in the romantic architecture and lush gardens that Sintra is famous for. I might even pop into Salla de Estar for a drink in the evening. But for now, I'm content to drift off to sleep, dreaming of windswept cliffs and hidden beaches. I am so glad I decided to come to Sintra.

I’m so glad I remembered to pack my travel guidebook; it has proven invaluable on this trip. I really wish I hadn’t forgotten my sunscreen and portable phone charger though!

I'm really enjoying travelling solo. It's given me time to reflect on life back in Berlin, my work as an ESL teacher, and my family. I miss Hans and Saoirse terribly, but I know this time alone is important for me. It allows me to recharge my batteries and come back to them with renewed energy and enthusiasm. I can't wait to share all my adventures with them when I return.

Until tomorrow!

Go to day 2 A Day of Fairytales and Fortresses: Exploring Sintra's Majestic Heights
Go to day 4 A Countess's Retreat and a Town's Tale: Discovering Hidden Gems in Sintra
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Solo Adventure in Enchanting Sintra

Embark on a solo journey to Sintra, Portugal, exploring its mystical palaces, lush gardens, and rich cultural heritage.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Aoife Walsh
  • Occupation icon Occupation: ESL Teacher
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 44

Dia duit, everyone! I'm Aoife, an Irish expat living in Berlin. After moving from Westport to Berlin ten years ago, I've developed a deep love for exploring new places, especially with my husband, Hans, and our daughter, Saoirse. As an ESL teacher, I'm passionate about languages and cultures, and I love sharing my travel experiences and tips with fellow adventurers. Join me as I share stories from my travels, tips for sustainable travel, and insights into the best cultural experiences Europe has to offer!

Interests:
  • Irish Literature
  • European History
  • Learning new languages
  • Sustainable living
  • World music
More about Aoife Walsh

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  • Praia da Ursa

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  • Farol do Cabo da Roca

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    Discover the authentic flavors of Sintra at Queijadas da Sapa, where every pastry tells a story of tradition and taste.

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