Solo Adventure in Enchanting Sintra

Day 4: A Countess's Retreat and a Town's Tale: Discovering Hidden Gems in Sintra

Unveiling Sintra's secrets: From the romantic Chalet of the Countess of Edla to local flavors and hidden bars. A solo traveler's immersive journey.

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Whispers of Romance and Rustic Charms


Today in Sintra felt like stepping into a storybook, one filled with whispered romances, hidden artistic havens, and the comforting embrace of local life. It was a day of wandering, of getting delightfully lost, and of uncovering the soul of this enchanting town.

My day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast. I ventured to Taberna Criativa, a place that promised a creative twist on traditional Portuguese fare. The reviews online sang praises of their pastries, and I must admit, the pastel de nata was indeed a work of art. Paired with a strong café, it was the perfect fuel for the adventures that lay ahead.

The morning chill in Sintra is something else, a crisp reminder that even in this fairytale setting, it's still January. I was glad I'd packed my warmest scarf as I set off towards the Chalet of the Countess of Edla. The journey there was a treat in itself, winding through the lush greenery that Sintra is famous for. I could almost feel the presence of Ferdinand II and Elise Hensler, the Countess of Edla, as I walked, imagining their shared love for botany and the arts.

Reaching the Chalet, I was immediately struck by its unique design. It's said that the Countess herself planned and designed the chalet, drawing inspiration from alpine chalets and rural houses in the United States. The exterior, with its cork detailing and painted wood, exuded a rustic charm. Stepping inside felt like entering a private world, a refuge created by a couple deeply in love. The interior was a delightful mix of styles, from Art Nouveau to Neo-Manueline, all blended with a French romantic touch. It was easy to see how the couple had a passion for botany, sculpture and the decorative arts. It was a true testament to their shared passions and artistic sensibilities.

Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.
Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.

Love is not about how many days, weeks, or months you’ve been together, it’s all about how much you love each other every day.


The gardens surrounding the Chalet were equally enchanting. I wandered through the Fern Garden, admiring the collection of exotic ferns, and imagined the Countess strolling along these paths, finding inspiration in the natural beauty around her. The views from the garden were breathtaking, offering glimpses of the Pena Palace, the Moorish Castle, and the High Cross. It was a truly idyllic setting, a testament to the romantic spirit of the time.

Leaving the Chalet, I decided to explore another hidden gem: Villa Sassetti. The walk there was invigorating, a climb up the winding Estrada da Pena. Villa Sassetti has a fascinating history. Victor Carlos Sassetti, a Sintra-born businessman, built it as his summer home in the late 19th century. Inspired by the castles of Lombardy, he collaborated with architect Luigi Manini to create a romantic mansion surrounded by beautiful gardens. It's a lesser-known site, which added to its allure. The villa's exterior, with its circular tower and terracotta tones, had a Mediterranean aesthetic. Although the interior wasn't open to the public, the picturesque exterior and tranquil gardens offered a serene retreat. I spent some time wandering through the grounds, admiring the artificial watercourses and the harmonious blend of architecture and landscape.

Explore Villa Sassetti, a historical gem in Sintra, Portugal, known for its breathtaking views, stunning architecture, and serene gardens.
Explore Villa Sassetti, a historical gem in Sintra, Portugal, known for its breathtaking views, stunning architecture, and serene gardens.

After soaking in the beauty of Villa Sassetti, I was ready for a late lunch. Taverna do Município caught my eye with its promise of traditional Portuguese cuisine. The taverna was cozy and inviting, with a homely decor that made me feel instantly comfortable. I ordered the bacalhau, a classic Portuguese dish made with codfish, and it was absolutely divine. The staff were friendly and welcoming, adding to the overall charm of the place. It was the perfect spot to refuel and recharge before continuing my explorations.

Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Taverna do Município in Sintra, where delicious tapas meet warm hospitality.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Taverna do Município in Sintra, where delicious tapas meet warm hospitality.

With the afternoon sun casting long shadows, I decided to try something a little different: Bela Vista Expeditions. I'd read about their tours of the Sintra coastline and was intrigued. However, upon further investigation, I discovered that Bela Vista Expeditions actually operates out of Rabo de Peixe in the Azores, offering Sperm Whale watching tours. While a whale watching tour wasn't quite what I had in mind for Sintra, I made a mental note to consider it if I ever found myself in the Azores. Instead, I opted for a leisurely stroll through the town, soaking in the atmosphere and discovering hidden corners.

Explore the breathtaking landscapes and rich history of Sintra with Bela Vista Expeditions, your ultimate adventure hub.
Explore the breathtaking landscapes and rich history of Sintra with Bela Vista Expeditions, your ultimate adventure hub.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself drawn to Salla de Estar, a bar that promised a cozy and intimate setting. It was indeed a unique spot, designed to resemble a living room. However, some reviews mentioned that it was a bit claustrophobic, with no windows and a somewhat grumpy owner. Intrigued, I decided to check it out for myself. I have to agree with some of the reviews I read. The bar was indeed quite small and dimly lit, creating a rather enclosed atmosphere. While it had a certain charm, it wasn't quite what I was looking for. I decided to move on and find a place with a bit more light and space.

Discover the cozy charm of Salla de Estar, a beloved bar in Sintra offering delightful snacks and expertly crafted cocktails in a welcoming atmosphere.
Discover the cozy charm of Salla de Estar, a beloved bar in Sintra offering delightful snacks and expertly crafted cocktails in a welcoming atmosphere.

For dinner, I chose Dom Pipas, a restaurant that had received rave reviews for its Portuguese dishes and friendly service. It was located near the Sintra train station, making it easily accessible. The restaurant was bustling with activity, but I was able to snag a table. I ordered the grilled prawns, and they were cooked to perfection. The staff were attentive and made me feel welcome. It was a delightful end to a day of exploration and discovery.

Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Dom Pipas in Sintra - where flavor meets tradition in a cozy atmosphere.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Dom Pipas in Sintra - where flavor meets tradition in a cozy atmosphere.

Before heading back to the Sintra Bliss Hotel, I took one last stroll through the town. The streets were quiet, the air was crisp, and the stars were shining brightly overhead. It was a perfect moment, a reminder of the magic of Sintra.

Discover the charm of Sintra at Sintra Bliss Hotel, a cozy retreat in the heart of the city with modern amenities and easy access to iconic landmarks.
Discover the charm of Sintra at Sintra Bliss Hotel, a cozy retreat in the heart of the city with modern amenities and easy access to iconic landmarks.

Tomorrow, I plan to delve deeper into Sintra's cultural side, with visits to the Sintra Science Workshop, the Museu de História Natural de Sintra, and the Anjos Teixeira Museum. I'm also looking forward to browsing the unique offerings at A Vida Portuguesa, a shop that celebrates Portuguese craftsmanship and heritage. It promises to be another day filled with exploration and discovery.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm reminded of the importance of embracing the unexpected. Sometimes, the best experiences are the ones you don't plan. Sintra has a way of revealing its secrets to those who are willing to wander and explore. And I, for one, am grateful for the opportunity to uncover its hidden gems.

Until tomorrow, Sintra!

Go to day 3 Chasing the Edge of Europe: A Day of Coastal Wonders in Sintra
Go to day 5 Unveiling Sintra's Hidden Gems: A Day of Science, History, and Artistic Wonder
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Solo Adventure in Enchanting Sintra

Embark on a solo journey to Sintra, Portugal, exploring its mystical palaces, lush gardens, and rich cultural heritage.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Aoife Walsh
  • Occupation icon Occupation: ESL Teacher
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 44

Dia duit, everyone! I'm Aoife, an Irish expat living in Berlin. After moving from Westport to Berlin ten years ago, I've developed a deep love for exploring new places, especially with my husband, Hans, and our daughter, Saoirse. As an ESL teacher, I'm passionate about languages and cultures, and I love sharing my travel experiences and tips with fellow adventurers. Join me as I share stories from my travels, tips for sustainable travel, and insights into the best cultural experiences Europe has to offer!

Interests:
  • Irish Literature
  • European History
  • Learning new languages
  • Sustainable living
  • World music
More about Aoife Walsh

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Sintra Bliss Hotel

    Discover the charm of Sintra at Sintra Bliss Hotel, a cozy retreat in the heart of the city with modern amenities and easy access to iconic landmarks.

  • Chalet of the Countess of Edla

    Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.

  • Villa Sassetti

    Explore Villa Sassetti, a historical gem in Sintra, Portugal, known for its breathtaking views, stunning architecture, and serene gardens.

  • Bela Vista Expeditions

    Explore the breathtaking landscapes and rich history of Sintra with Bela Vista Expeditions, your ultimate adventure hub.

  • Taberna Criativa

    Experience the essence of Portuguese cuisine at Taberna Criativa in Sintra - where tradition meets innovation.

  • Taverna do Município

    Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Taverna do Município in Sintra, where delicious tapas meet warm hospitality.

  • Dom Pipas

    Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Dom Pipas in Sintra - where flavor meets tradition in a cozy atmosphere.

  • Salla de Estar

    Discover the cozy charm of Salla de Estar, a beloved bar in Sintra offering delightful snacks and expertly crafted cocktails in a welcoming atmosphere.

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