Solo Adventure in Enchanting Sintra

A Day of Solitude and Discovery

Today was a day for quiet contemplation, a chance to peel back another layer of Sintra's enigmatic soul. Leaving the familiar comforts of the Sintra Bliss Hotel, I set out to explore some of the lesser-known, yet equally captivating, corners of this magical place. It was a journey into the heart of serenity, a chance to connect with the past and lose myself in the beauty of the present.


Discover the charm of Sintra at Sintra Bliss Hotel, a cozy retreat in the heart of the city with modern amenities and easy access to iconic landmarks.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Dona Maria. I savoured a strong coffee and a pastel de nata, watching the town slowly awaken beneath a sky promising a crisp, clear day. Fueled and ready, I hopped on a local bus that wound its way up into the hills, my destination the Convento dos Capuchos. I had a little chuckle to myself as I remembered back in Berlin, Hans teasing me about my 'slight' overpacking issue, and now, here I was, wishing I'd brought an extra scarf! The January air in Sintra has a bite to it, a reminder that even in this fairytale setting, winter holds sway.


Discover the serene beauty and historical significance of Convento dos Capuchos, a hidden gem in Caparica, Portugal.

Convento dos Capuchos: A Lesson in Austerity

Stepping into the Convento dos Capuchos was like stepping back in time, but also into a different world. The contrast to the opulent palaces I'd seen earlier in the week was striking. This wasn't a place of kings and queens, but of monks seeking solace and spiritual enlightenment. The convent, also known as the Cork Convent, is built directly into the rock, and is a series of tiny, rough-hewn cells and communal spaces. The use of cork as insulation and decoration is everywhere, giving the place a rustic, almost primal feel. I wandered through the minuscule doorways, imagining the lives of the friars who once called this place home. It's incredible to think that for nearly 300 years, this served as a place of worship and pilgrimage. I learned that the convent was founded in 1560, and at one point was home to just eight monks.

Of all my kingdoms, there are two places I cherish most: Escorial for its wealth and the Convent of Santa Cruz for its poverty.

That was apparently a quote from Phillip I of Portugal after visiting the convent in 1581. There's a raw, unadorned beauty here that speaks volumes. It's a testament to the power of simplicity and the human capacity for devotion. As an ESL teacher, I often encourage my students to find beauty in simplicity, and the Convento dos Capuchos was the perfect embodiment of that idea. It made me think of Saoirse, and how she finds joy in the simplest things, like a perfectly shaped stone or a ladybug crawling on her hand. Perhaps I'll share photos with her when I get back to Berlin, maybe even inspire her next art project. I spent a long time just sitting on a stone bench, listening to the wind rustling through the trees and feeling a sense of peace wash over me. It was a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Berlin, but a welcome one.

Quinta da Ribafria: A Renaissance Retreat

Leaving the stark beauty of the convent, I journeyed onward to Quinta da Ribafria. This estate, built in the 16th century, offered a complete contrast to the Capuchos. Where the convent was about austerity, the Quinta exuded Renaissance elegance, even in the muted tones of winter. Founded in 1541, it was built by Gaspar Gonçalves, who was granted the estate by King Dom Manuel I. The Quinta was a magnificent example of Manueline civil architecture, and is now owned by the Sintra Municipality. I strolled through the formal gardens, admiring the statues and fountains, and imagining the lavish parties that must have taken place here centuries ago. The gardens have been open to the public since 2015, after being abandoned for many years. The bare branches of orange trees hinted at the vibrant colors that would fill this space in the warmer months. The main manor and a towering 17th-century edifice stood proudly, adorned with intricate cornices and a coat of arms. The Quinta has had an interesting history, even being owned by the Count of Cartaxo, who began restoration work in the 1960s. From 1987 to 2002, the Friedrich Naumann Foundation occupied the estate. I could almost picture Hans here, discussing engineering and sustainable building practices with architects Francisco Caldeira Cabral and Gonçalo Ribeiro Telles, who worked on improving the garden during that time. It's funny how travel can bring you closer to your loved ones, even when you're miles apart.


Explore the tranquil beauty of Quinta da Ribafria, a stunning garden and farm experience in the heart of Sintra, Portugal.

Gruta do Labirinto: An Earthly Puzzle

My final stop of the day was the Gruta do Labirinto, located near the Quinta da Regaleira. This labyrinthine grotto was a completely different experience altogether. After reading about it, I knew I had to visit. Unlike the other parts of the Quinta da Regaleira, the Gruta do Labirinto is dark and adventurous, and visitors are encouraged to use flashlights to navigate through the tunnels. Exploring the tunnels felt like playing hide and seek in the best possible location! It was a network of underground tunnels and chambers, some natural, some man-made, that challenged my sense of direction and sparked my imagination. I squeezed through narrow passages, marvelled at the strange rock formations, and felt a thrill of excitement with each new discovery. The grotto is connected to a small lake, and the various grottos lead you to different parts of the estate. It was a fitting end to a day of exploring the hidden corners of Sintra. It reminded me of my childhood adventures in Westport, exploring the caves along the coast and imagining myself as an intrepid explorer. I felt a similar sense of wonder and excitement here, a reminder that the spirit of adventure never truly fades.


Discover the enchanting Gruta do Labirinto, a stunning labyrinthine cave nestled within Quinta da Regaleira, perfect for adventure and exploration in Sintra.

Evening Reflections

As the sun began to set, I made my way back to town, my mind filled with the images and experiences of the day. I decided to treat myself to dinner at A Lanterna, a cozy restaurant known for its traditional Portuguese cuisine. I savoured a hearty meal of *caldo verde* and grilled sardines, reflecting on the day's adventures and feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of Sintra. The Portuguese cuisine was great, and the staff were extremely welcoming. The filet américain was also very tasty, and I enjoyed a great coffee to end the meal. I considered popping into ZID lounge Bar for a nightcap, but decided to head back to the hotel and get some rest. I heard they have a wide menu of shisha flavours to choose from, but I decided to save that for another time.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at A Lanterna, nestled in the heart of picturesque Sintra.

Tomorrow is my last day in Sintra, and I plan to visit the Initiation Well and Torre da Regaleira, and do some souvenir shopping at Casa Vidi before heading back to Berlin. I'm looking forward to seeing what other hidden treasures this enchanting town has in store for me. I'm sure Saoirse will be looking for a gift, so I'll have to keep my eyes peeled. For now, though, it's time to rest and recharge, ready for one last day of adventure in this magical corner of Portugal.

Travel is more than seeing the sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Initiation Well and Torre da Regaleira, and maybe do some souvenir shopping before heading back to Berlin. I'm already feeling a pang of sadness at the thought of leaving Sintra, but I know that the memories and experiences I've gathered here will stay with me long after I've returned home. It's been a solo adventure, a chance to reconnect with myself and discover new facets of my own spirit. And as much as I miss Hans and Saoirse, I know that this time alone has been invaluable. As I drift off to sleep, I can almost hear the whispers of the past echoing through the hills of Sintra, a reminder that even in the midst of our busy lives, there's always time for solitude, reflection, and a little bit of magic.