A Solo Adventure into the Heart of Yakushima

Guardians of Time

Today was a day of reverence and quiet contemplation, spent in the company of Yakushima's ancient giants. It's humbling to stand before trees that have witnessed centuries unfold, their weathered bark telling silent stories of resilience and endurance. I set out to explore the Kigensugi Cedar, a sentinel of the forest, and then immersed myself in the history and culture of the island at the Yakusugi Museum. The air was thick with the scent of cedar, the silence broken only by the rustling of leaves and the distant calls of unseen birds. It felt like stepping back in time, into a world where nature reigns supreme.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. The reviews I had read online raved about their omurice and pasta, and I was eager to try it for myself. The cafe was cozy and inviting, with a fashionable interior that made me feel right at home. I decided on the seafood pasta, and it was indeed exceptional. The scallops were cooked to perfection, bursting with flavor, and the shrimp was tender and succulent. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off towards the Kigensugi Cedar. The drive itself was an experience, winding through lush mountain roads that offered glimpses of breathtaking scenery. The air grew cooler and crisper as I ascended, the vegetation becoming denser and more vibrant. It was a sensory feast, the sights, sounds, and smells of the forest enveloping me in a cocoon of tranquility.

Finally, I arrived at the Kigensugi Cedar. Standing before it, I was struck by its sheer size and presence. This ancient tree, estimated to be around 3,000 years old, is the largest Yakusugi cedar accessible by car. Its massive trunk, measuring over 8 meters in circumference, was a testament to its longevity. The top of the tree was withered and skeletal, but the lower part was teeming with life, covered in a vibrant tapestry of mosses, ferns, and other epiphytes. It was a powerful symbol of resilience, a reminder that even in the face of adversity, life finds a way to flourish.

In the presence of ancient trees, one feels a sense of humility and connection to the earth, a reminder of the enduring power of nature.

I spent a long time simply gazing at the Kigensugi Cedar, marveling at its intricate details and absorbing its ancient energy. It was a moment of profound connection, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things. I felt a deep sense of peace and gratitude, thankful for the opportunity to witness such a natural wonder.

After leaving the Kigensugi Cedar, I made my way to the Yakusugi Museum. I was eager to learn more about the history and ecology of these ancient trees, and the museum seemed like the perfect place to do so. The museum is located in a beautiful setting, surrounded by lush forests and rolling hills. As I entered, I was immediately struck by the aroma of cedar, which permeated the air. The floor of the museum was made of cedar blocks, and I was asked to remove my shoes, which added to the sense of reverence and connection to nature.

The Yakusugi Museum is dedicated to the Cryptomeria japonica, known as yakusugi, and the vegetation found on Yakushima. Trees over 1,000 years old are known as Yakusugi. The exhibits were fascinating, showcasing the unique characteristics of the Yakushima cedar and its importance to the island's ecosystem. I learned about the slow growth rates of these trees, their high resin content which makes them resistant to insects and decay, and the history of logging on the island.

One of the highlights of the museum was the Jomon-sugi Millennium Branch, a branch that broke off from the famous Jomon-sugi tree after heavy snowfall in 2005. It was incredible to see this ancient piece of wood up close, to examine its intricate grain and imagine the centuries of history it had witnessed. The museum also had a computer-generated virtual reconstruction of Wilson's Stump, the remains of a massive tree felled in the Edo Period. It gave me a sense of the scale of these ancient giants and the impact of logging on the island's forests.

I also watched a video about the history of logging on Yakushima, told through the eyes of Tomari Jochiku, an Edo Period Buddhist priest who convinced the authorities to exploit the island's forests. It was a sobering reminder of the complex relationship between humans and nature, and the importance of finding a sustainable approach to resource management.

Before leaving the museum, I stopped by the gift shop and purchased a small wooden carving of a Yakushima cedar as a memento of my visit. I also browsed through the books on the nature of Yakushima, adding to my growing collection of travel literature.

For lunch, I headed to Kotobuki, a restaurant a few kilometers south of Kusugawa Onsen. Finding it was a bit of an adventure, as it's tucked away off the main road, but the effort was well worth it. The setting was enchanting, with a castle-like walkway leading up to the restaurant. The interior was homely and traditional, making me feel like I had stepped back in time. I hadn't booked in advance, so I opted for a light meal and a drink. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was incredibly relaxing.

In the late afternoon, I decided to do some shopping for souvenirs at Moriizumi. The shop was filled with local crafts, traditional gifts, and beautiful keepsakes that reflected the island's vibrant culture. I picked up a few small items for Liam and my family back in Banff, wanting to share a piece of Yakushima with them. I also found a beautiful hand-painted postcard of the Kigensugi Cedar, which I decided to send to my parents in Norway.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to a heavenly kitchen for dinner. This all-vegan cafe had caught my eye earlier in the day, and I was curious to try its plant-based cuisine. The restaurant is small, with only one table, and is located in the owner's house. It felt like a truly unique and intimate dining experience. I opted for the Buddha bowl, and it was absolutely delicious. The ingredients were fresh and flavorful, and the presentation was beautiful. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and contemplation.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I had learned and experienced. I had stood in the presence of ancient giants, delved into the history and culture of Yakushima, and savored the island's unique flavors. It was a day that had nourished my soul and deepened my connection to the natural world.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Yakushima Shrine and Shitoko Gajumaru Banyan Park. And perhaps end the day with a drink at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. I'm excited to see what new adventures and discoveries await me in this magical place.

One thing I realized today is that I completely forgot to buy insect repellent! Note to self, I need to get some tomorrow. I also think I should have brushed up on my Japanese phrases a bit more before coming here. I'll try to find a phrasebook tomorrow as well.