Exploring the Enchanting Landscapes of The Burren

Farewell, Emerald Isle

As our journey through the enchanting landscapes of The Burren draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the incredible experiences we’ve shared. Today was a perfect culmination of everything that makes this region so special: its rich history, vibrant culture, and the warmth of its people. It’s hard to believe our time here is ending, but I’m holding onto these memories tightly, ready to bring a piece of Ireland back home to Banff.

Our final day in The Burren began with a hearty Irish breakfast at Greens Bar in Kinvara. Liam, ever the early bird, was already downstairs chatting with the locals when I joined him. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong coffee filled the cozy space. I opted for the traditional full Irish breakfast – sausages, bacon, eggs, black and white pudding – while Liam, surprisingly, went for the lighter option of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. It was the perfect fuel for our day of exploration.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off for the Burren Farm Experience. As a wildlife photographer, I was particularly excited to see how the local farmers worked in harmony with the unique landscape. The O'Rourke family, who run the farm, welcomed us with open arms. Cathal, a fifth-generation farmer, and his wife Bronagh, a conservation ranger, shared their deep knowledge of the land and its history.

We hopped aboard a tractor-trailer, complete with comfy straw bales, for a guided tour through the farm's nearly 500 acres. The landscape was breathtaking – mixed species grassland, deciduous woodland, hazel scrub, and the iconic glacio-karst limestone pavement. It was fascinating to learn about the ancient practice of transhumance, where cattle are moved to the uplands for winter grazing, a tradition that's vital for maintaining the region's biodiversity. I was captivated by the unique flora and fauna, managing to capture some stunning shots of the hardy Burren wildflowers clinging to the limestone rocks.

“The land is not just soil; it is a living tapestry woven with history, tradition, and the enduring spirit of the Irish people.”

Liam, always keen to learn about local traditions, was intrigued by the O’Rourke’s sustainable farming practices. He peppered Cathal with questions about their methods, clearly impressed by their commitment to preserving the natural environment. We even got a chance to meet some of the farm's inhabitants, including a herd of friendly Irish beef cattle. I couldn't resist snapping a few portraits of these magnificent creatures against the backdrop of the Burren landscape.

After our farm tour, we indulged in a rustic picnic featuring local produce. There were organic vegetables, locally sourced cheeses, and even some wild oysters and scallops. The crisp, clean Burren air made everything taste even more delicious. As we savored our meal, Cathal and Bronagh shared stories about their family history and the challenges of farming in this unique environment. It was a truly immersive experience, one that gave us a deeper appreciation for the connection between the land and its people.

Our next stop was Dysert O'Dea Castle and Archaeology Centre. This restored 15th-century castle was once the stronghold of the O'Dea clan and now houses the Clare Archaeology Centre. As we approached the castle, I couldn't help but feel a sense of stepping back in time. The sturdy stone walls and imposing tower evoked images of medieval Ireland, of clans and battles and ancient traditions.

We explored the museum, which houses an extensive collection of local artifacts dating back to 1000 BC. It was fascinating to learn about the history of the region, from its early inhabitants to the impact of Cromwell's forces in the 17th century. Liam was particularly interested in the castle's history room, which covered the period from 1700 AD to 2000 AD. He spent ages poring over the exhibits, eager to piece together the story of this ancient stronghold.

Of course, no visit to Dysert O'Dea Castle would be complete without a walk along the Archaeology Trail. This 4km trail winds its way through the grounds surrounding the castle, showcasing 25 original field monuments. We followed the trail, guidebook in hand, marveling at the ancient ruins and learning about their significance. From standing stones to holy wells, each monument offered a glimpse into the past, a reminder of the generations who had lived and worked on this land.

By late afternoon, our feet were tired but our hearts were full. Before heading back to our guesthouse, we made a quick stop at The Rock Shop in Liscannor. This charming shop is a treasure trove of geological wonders, local crafts, and unique souvenirs. I was immediately drawn to the displays of polished stones, fossils, and handcrafted jewelry. It was the perfect place to pick up a few mementos of our trip, something to remind us of the beauty and magic of The Burren.

Liam, meanwhile, was lured by the promise of coffee and cake in the shop's cozy café. We settled into a corner table, savoring the warmth of the café and the delicious treats. As we sipped our coffee, we chatted about our favorite moments from the trip, already planning our return visit.

For our final dinner in The Burren, we chose the Roadside Tavern in Lisdoonvarna. This traditional Irish pub is renowned for its award-winning food, live music, and warm hospitality. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by the lively sounds of a traditional Irish band. The pub was packed with locals and tourists alike, all eager to enjoy a night of music and merriment.

We found a cozy spot by the fire and ordered a couple of pints of local craft beer. For dinner, I opted for the classic Irish stew, while Liam chose the Burren smoked fish platter. Both dishes were delicious, showcasing the best of local ingredients. As we savored our meal, we listened to the band play traditional Irish tunes, tapping our feet along to the lively rhythm.

The Roadside Tavern is also known for brewing their own beers, and Liam, being a brewery manager himself, was naturally curious. He sampled the Burren Blonde, Burren Gold, and Burren Black, each with its own unique character. He even got a chance to chat with the brewer, Peter Jackson, about his craft. It was fascinating to hear about the process of brewing beer in such a traditional setting.

As the night wore on, the music grew louder and the atmosphere more festive. We joined in the singing and dancing, feeling like we were truly part of the Irish community. It was the perfect way to end our trip, surrounded by the warmth and hospitality of the Irish people.

Walking back to our guesthouse under the starlit sky, I couldn't help but feel a pang of sadness that our adventure was coming to an end. But I also felt a deep sense of gratitude for the incredible experiences we had shared. The Burren had captured our hearts, and we knew we would carry its magic with us wherever we went.

Tomorrow, we bid farewell to The Burren and begin our journey back to Dublin, before flying back to Calgary. While I’m excited to return home, I know a part of me will always remain in this enchanting corner of Ireland. Until next time, Slán go fóill, The Burren. Thank you for the memories.