Exploring the Mystical Forests of Yakushima

Echoes of the Ancients

Today, I ventured deeper into the heart of Yakushima, seeking out the island's most ancient and revered inhabitants: the Yakusugi cedars. It was a day of challenging hikes, breathtaking scenery, and a profound connection with nature that left me feeling both humbled and invigorated. Join me as I share the stories whispered by these ancient giants.



The morning began with a hearty breakfast at Il Mare. Fueling up with a delicious meal was crucial for the day ahead, especially knowing the trails I was about to embark on. I opted for a simple, yet satisfying meal of grilled vegetables and tofu, ensuring I had plenty of energy for the long hours of hiking ahead. The Italian restaurant, so close to the airport, seemed an unlikely place to start a day of deep forest immersion, but the promise of good coffee and a quick start to the day won me over.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

First on the agenda was the legendary Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. The journey to this ancient giant is not for the faint of heart. The hike is known to take around 10-12 hours roundtrip. I started early, joining the throngs of fellow hikers making their way towards the Arakawa Trail entrance. The trail began along an old railway line, a relic from Yakushima's logging past. It was fascinating to imagine the bustling activity that once took place here, now replaced by the quiet footsteps of hikers and the rustling of leaves.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

The initial part of the trail was relatively flat, making for a pleasant warm-up. The path wound alongside the Arakawa River, the water incredibly clear and inviting. As I ventured further, the landscape gradually transformed into a more traditional mountain trail. The ascent became steeper, with wooden ladders and walkways aiding the climb. The forest canopy grew denser, casting a mystical light upon the path. I was grateful for my hiking boots and rain jacket, two items I'd remembered to pack, unlike those extra memory cards I'm already regretting leaving behind! I also wished I had remembered insect repellent, as the little buggers were having a field day.



Reaching Jōmon Sugi was an emotional experience. The sheer size and presence of this ancient tree is awe-inspiring. Though you can no longer walk right up to it (platforms were built about 15m away in the mid-1990s), viewing it from the observation deck is enough to feel its powerful energy. It's hard to fathom how this tree has stood for millennia, weathering countless storms and witnessing the ebb and flow of history. I spent a good while simply gazing at it, soaking in its wisdom and resilience.



After paying my respects to Jōmon Sugi, I made my way back down the mountain, my legs weary but my spirit soaring. For lunch, I stopped at Matsutake, a charming soba noodle house in Kurio. Finding it was a bit of an adventure in itself, tucked away and requiring some help from the locals, but it was well worth the effort. I enjoyed a simple yet delicious bowl of cold soba noodles with tempura, a perfect way to refuel after the strenuous hike. The owner was incredibly kind, and the authentic Japanese atmosphere added to the charm of the experience.


Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

With the afternoon still ahead, I decided to explore Yakusugi Land. This nature park offers a variety of hiking courses, each showcasing the island's ancient cedar trees. Opting for the 150-minute course, I ventured deeper into the forest, encountering other magnificent specimens like the Buddhasugi, Futagosugi and Sennensugi. The trails were well-maintained, with boardwalks and dirt paths winding through the lush landscape. While the terrain at Yakusugi Land was similar to that of Shiratani Unsuikyo, the forest had a subtly different feel. It was beautiful, but lacking the truly ancient atmosphere evoked at Shiratani.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Cafe＆Bar RainTree, a cozy spot for a well-deserved drink. I enjoyed a local craft beer, reflecting on the day's adventures. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and I even considered joining in on the karaoke, but decided to save that for another night.


Experience the unique blend of café culture and karaoke fun at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in Yakushima's enchanting landscapes.

For dinner, I headed to Smiley, a cafe near Anbo Port known for its homemade dishes and cozy atmosphere. I savored a comforting meal of freshly made soup and a sandwich, feeling grateful for the day's experiences. As I sat there, I couldn't help but think about tomorrow's itinerary. Wilson's Stump and the Yakushima World Heritage Conservation Center await, promising more insights into this incredible island. I'm particularly excited about seeing Wilson's Stump, the remains of a giant cedar that offers a unique perspective on the scale of these ancient trees.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

Tonight, I fall asleep to the sounds of Yakushima, already dreaming of the ancient forests I explored today and the adventures that await tomorrow. It's nights like these that make me so grateful for the opportunity to travel and connect with nature in such a profound way. And I'm so happy to be able to share these experiences with you all!