Solo Expedition to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Echoes of History, Footsteps on Ancient Trails

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of haunting history and invigorating natural beauty. It’s days like these that remind me why I fell in love with photography and travel in the first place. It's about capturing the essence of a place, the stories etched into its very being.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Hamraborg ehf in Ísafjörður. Fueling up is essential for the adventures that lie ahead, especially when those adventures involve exploring the rugged landscapes of Hornstrandir. I savored every bite, knowing I'd need the energy for the day's journey.

Djúpavík: A Village Frozen in Time

After breakfast, I set out to explore Djúpavík, a village that feels like stepping back in time. The drive along road #643 through the Árneshreppur municipality was nothing short of spectacular. The Westfjords are renowned for their dramatic scenery, and this drive certainly lived up to the hype. Jagged coastlines, towering cliffs, and the vast expanse of the sea created a mesmerizing panorama.


Discover the historic Djúpavík, where Iceland's fishing legacy comes to life in a stunning coastal setting, perfect for nature lovers and history buffs alike.

Djúpavík itself is a small settlement with a captivating history. Once a thriving hub for herring processing, it now stands as a silent testament to Iceland's industrial past. The abandoned herring factory dominates the landscape, a colossal concrete structure that was once the largest of its kind in Iceland.

Wandering through the ruins, I couldn't help but imagine the bustling activity that once filled these walls. The factory was built in 1934, a replacement for an earlier salting station established in 1917 by Elías Stefánsson. For a brief period, Djúpavík flourished, becoming a vibrant community with a population of around 260.

But the herring boom was short-lived. By the 1940s, the herring stocks began to decline, and the factory eventually closed its doors in 1954. Today, the factory stands as a haunting reminder of a bygone era, its empty halls echoing with the whispers of the past.

Exploring the factory, I learned about the innovative technology used at the time, a production process that was unlike anything else in Iceland. Engineer Guðmundur Guðjónsson designed the factory, and it quickly became the envy of producers across Europe. The factory even had its own shop and bakery, owned by Djúpavík Ltd.

The village itself has a unique charm. With only a handful of houses, a hotel, and the imposing factory, Djúpavík feels isolated and remote. Yet, there's a certain beauty in its simplicity, a sense of peace that permeates the air. The Djúpavík Waterfall, cascading down the cliffs behind the village, adds to the dramatic scenery.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

I spent a considerable amount of time photographing the factory, trying to capture its essence, its story. The decaying concrete, the rusted machinery, and the broken windows all spoke of a time when Djúpavík was full of life and promise.

As I wandered through the village, I reflected on the cyclical nature of life, the rise and fall of communities, and the enduring power of nature. Djúpavík is a place that stays with you, a reminder of the human capacity for both innovation and resilience. It is thought-provoking to imagine the Justice League movie scene that was filmed here, with Batman standing at the edge of Djúpavíkurfoss.

Stórurðarlundur: A Hiker's Paradise

Leaving Djúpavík, I set my sights on Stórurðarlundur, a natural park known for its stunning landscapes and unique geological formations. After grabbing a quick and tasty lunch at Cafe Restaurant Dunhagi in Ísafjörður, I felt ready to take on the hiking.


Discover the tranquility of Stórurðarlundur, a serene park in Ísafjörður, perfect for nature walks and family picnics amidst stunning Icelandic landscapes.

The drive to the trailhead was an adventure in itself, winding through narrow roads and offering breathtaking views of the fjords. Arriving at Stórurðarlundur, I was immediately struck by the sheer beauty of the place.

Stórurðarlundur, which translates to Giant Boulder Field, is a landscape shaped by a massive rockslide. Enormous boulders are scattered across the valley floor, creating a surreal and otherworldly scene. Nestled among these boulders are small turquoise pools, fed by glacial streams.

The hike to Stórurð is a moderate challenge, with several trails to choose from. I opted for the Vatnsskarð trailhead, a 13km route that offers stunning panoramic views. The trail was well-marked with yellow trail marks, making it easy to follow.

As I ascended, the landscape transformed from lush meadows to rocky terrain. The air was crisp and clean, and the silence was broken only by the sound of my own footsteps and the occasional call of a bird.

The views from the higher elevations were simply breathtaking. I could see for miles in every direction, the rugged coastline stretching out to the horizon. Snow-capped mountains, glistening fjords, and the vast expanse of the sky created a vista that was both awe-inspiring and humbling.

Reaching Stórurð, I was mesmerized by the sight before me. The massive boulders, the turquoise pools, and the surrounding mountains created a scene of unparalleled beauty. I spent hours exploring the area, scrambling over rocks, wading through streams, and photographing every angle of this natural wonder.

The Stórurð hike is not particularly difficult, but it is quite long. The trail is nicely marked with yellow trail marks, and it's very easy to follow. There is a steep bit right at the beginning, and a bit of a rocky trail. Then, the trail gradually flattens out with some ups and downs. You pass a variety of landscapes on this hike, from scree to green meadows, snowfields, and a few small creeks to cross.

The last part of the trail leads to a circular trail around the boulder field and up to the viewpoint above the small, turquoise Stórurð lake. This is pretty much the best viewpoint of the lake. I was lucky enough to visit on a day with clear skies, which allowed me to fully appreciate the vibrant colors of the landscape.

As the sun began to set, I started my descent, carrying with me the memories of this extraordinary place. Stórurðarlundur is a true gem of Iceland, a place where nature's power and beauty are on full display. The weather in Hornstrandir today was cloudy, with a temperature of 45°F (7°C), making it ideal for hiking.

A Nightcap in Ísafjörður

Back in Ísafjörður, I decided to unwind with a drink at Skúli Craft bar. This cozy bar is known for its impressive selection of local and international craft beers. It seemed like the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection.


Discover Skúli Craft Bar in Reykjavík: A vibrant hub for craft beer lovers and a lively taste of Iceland's nightlife.

Skúli Craft Bar is located just off Ingólfur Square in Reykjavik, but it appears there is one in Isafjordur as well. It has a great space, close to many of the other spots you'll likely look to explore. It's unlikely to be too busy and the tap and bottle selections give you plenty to choose from.

I savored a local brew, chatting with the friendly bartender and soaking in the lively atmosphere. It was a perfect ending to a day filled with history, nature, and the simple pleasures of travel.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Drangaskörð [If last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I'm excited to see what other wonders this remote corner of Iceland has in store [If last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”].

“Not all those who wander are lost.” I feel like I’m finding myself here, one photograph, one hike, one story at a time.

Tonight, I’ll sleep well, dreaming of glaciers, boulders, and the ghosts of herring fishermen.