Carmen's Solo Adventure Through the Historical Wonders of Kyoto

Finding Peace in Stone and Savoring Kyoto's Flavors

Today was a journey of contrasts, a dance between the stillness of Zen gardens and the vibrant energy of Kyoto's culinary scene. It was a day for quiet contemplation and gustatory exploration, a perfect blend of experiences that left me feeling both grounded and invigorated.

The crisp February air nipped at my cheeks as I set out this morning, a reminder that winter still held Kyoto in its embrace. The forecast predicted a high of around 7°C (45°F), so I bundled up in my warmest coat, eager to explore the temples that awaited me. Although I had forgotten my universal travel adapter and sunscreen, I made sure to bring my camera, notebook, and comfortable walking shoes.

My first stop was Ryoan-ji, a temple famed for its enigmatic rock garden. As I approached, the temple exuded an aura of serene mystery. The garden itself is a rectangle of meticulously raked gravel, punctuated by fifteen rocks arranged in small groups. Gazing upon it, I felt a sense of calm wash over me. It's said that from any vantage point, one of the rocks remains hidden, a subtle reminder of the imperfections in life. I pondered the garden's meaning, letting my mind wander through interpretations of islands in a sea, mountains amidst clouds, or a tiger carrying her cubs across a pond. The beauty of Ryoan-ji lies in its ambiguity, inviting each visitor to find their own truth within its simple design. Before leaving, I explored the temple grounds, including the Kyōyōchi Pond, which dates back to the 11th century. The pond, with its small islands and walking trails, offered a peaceful contrast to the starkness of the rock garden.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Ryōan-ji in Kyoto, a renowned Zen temple known for its iconic rock garden and rich cultural heritage.

The quieter you become, the more you can hear.

Next, I ventured to Ninna-ji Temple, a World Heritage Site with a rich imperial history. Founded in 888 by Emperor Uda, Ninna-ji served as both a temple and a residence for members of the Imperial family. The temple's architecture is stunning, reflecting its imperial connections. The five-story pagoda stood tall against the winter sky, a testament to the enduring craftsmanship of the Edo period. I wandered through the Goten, the former residence of the head priest, admiring the elegantly painted sliding doors and the meticulously designed rock and pond gardens. Though Ninna-ji is famous for its late-blooming Omuro cherry trees, which blossom in April, the temple's serene beauty was still evident in the quiet of winter. The bare branches of the cherry trees hinted at the vibrant display to come, a promise of spring's return.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Ninna-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kyoto, showcasing stunning architecture and serene gardens.

My final temple visit of the day was to Daitoku-ji, a sprawling complex of Zen temples with a deep connection to the tea ceremony. Daitoku-ji is comprised of nearly two dozen sub-temples, each with its own unique character and gardens. I explored a few of the sub-temples that were open to the public, marveling at the diverse Zen gardens and the peaceful atmosphere. Daitoku-ji's association with tea master Sen no Rikyu, who was the teacher of warlords Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi, gives the temple a special significance. The temple's gardens and architecture reflect the Zen aesthetic of simplicity and harmony, inviting contemplation and inner peace. It was fascinating to learn that Oda Nobunaga's grave is located at Sokenin, one of Daitoku-ji’s subtemples.


Explore the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Daitoku-ji Temple, a historic Buddhist temple complex in Kyoto, Japan.

After a morning of temple hopping, my stomach began to rumble, reminding me that it was time for lunch. I headed to Masayoshi Japanese Dining for a midday meal. The restaurant, nestled in a renovated 150-year-old Kyoto townhouse, offered a tranquil escape from the bustling city. I decided on a steak lunch, and I wasn't disappointed. The Angus beef was incredibly tender and juicy, perfectly complemented by the wasabi soy sauce and craft chuhai. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, making it a delightful culinary experience.


Experience authentic Japanese steakhouse dining at Masayoshi in Kyoto—where tradition meets culinary excellence.

In the afternoon, I indulged in a traditional Kaiseki experience at Chihana. The restaurant, known for its meticulously crafted dishes and innovative flavors, was a true culinary gem. Each course was a work of art, showcasing the unique characteristics of seasonal ingredients. The chefs worked with precision and passion, creating a symphony of flavors and textures that delighted my senses. The service was exceptional, with the staff paying close attention to every detail, ensuring a memorable dining experience. Although a reviewer noted the lack of dessert, I found the savory dishes to be more than satisfying. The attention to detail and the quality of ingredients made it a truly special meal.


Experience authentic kaiseki cuisine at Chihana in Kyoto's enchanting Gion district - where tradition meets culinary artistry.

As evening approached, I found myself drawn to Jiki Miyazawa, a Kyoto-style Japanese restaurant known for its progressive Kaiseki cuisine. The restaurant's elegant interior and serene atmosphere created a perfect setting for a memorable dinner. I savored each dish, appreciating the chef's innovative approach to traditional Kyoto cuisine. The ingredients were carefully selected from local farmers and fishermen, ensuring the freshest and most flavorful experience. The rice, cooked in an earthen pot, was a highlight, offering a unique sweetness and flavor that lingered on my palate. It was an experience that pleased both the eyes and the palate, leaving me feeling content and satisfied.


Indulge in an authentic Kaiseki dining experience at Jiki Miyazawa, where seasonal flavors meet exquisite presentation in the heart of Kyoto.

To cap off the evening, I decided to visit Kyoto Star Bar, a cozy establishment known for its innovative cocktails. The bar's intimate atmosphere, with Mozart playing softly in the background, created a relaxing ambiance. I savored a unique cocktail, expertly crafted with local ingredients and a touch of Kyoto charm. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring temples and indulging in culinary delights. I had read about their unique shaved ice, but decided to stick to a cocktail this time.


Discover the perfect blend of cocktails and coffee at Kyoto Star Bar, a stylish retreat in the heart of Kyoto's vibrant nightlife.

As I walked back to Matsui Honkan, the stars twinkled above, casting a soft glow on the ancient streets of Kyoto. I reflected on the day's experiences, feeling grateful for the opportunity to immerse myself in the city's rich culture and culinary traditions. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Sanjusangendo Temple, Higashiyama Jisho-ji, and Nanzen-ji, eager to discover more of Kyoto's historical and spiritual treasures. I might even do some shopping at Takashimaya Kyoto S.C. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings!


Experience the warmth of home at Matsui Honkan, a serene guesthouse in Kyoto, just a stone's throw from iconic attractions and cultural gems.

It's moments like these that remind me why I love to travel solo. It allows me to fully immerse myself in the experience, to connect with the local culture on a deeper level, and to discover hidden gems that I might otherwise miss. And while I miss Hans and Sofia dearly, I know that this journey of self-discovery will only make me a better wife and mother when I return to Bonn.

For now, I'll savor the memories of this day, the peace of the Zen gardens, and the flavors of Kyoto's culinary artistry. It's a journey that nourishes both the body and the soul, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds.