Cultural Immersion in the Heart of Périgord Noir

Salignac's Heights and Auvézère's Depths

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey from the heights of medieval power to the depths of natural wonder. Périgord Noir continues to surprise and enchant, and I'm so grateful to be sharing these experiences with my friends. It's moments like these that remind me why I left the orchard behind, even if just for a little while.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Hôtel de France in Salignac-Eyvigues. It was a classic French breakfast, complete with croissants, strong coffee, and lively conversation. Fuelled up, we set off to explore the Château de Salignac.

The Château de Salignac has dominated the valley for a thousand years. As we approached, its imposing structure spoke volumes of its rich history. The castle, once the stronghold of the Salignac-Fénelon family, dates back to the 12th and 16th centuries. I learned that the Salignac family's origins might trace back to a cadet branch of the Viscounts of Turenne. Over the centuries, it evolved, with the earliest stone constructions appearing around the 11th and 12th centuries. Each stone seemed to whisper tales of battles, noble families, and the ebb and flow of time.

This heritage belongs to everyone; it is important to preserve it and pass it on to future generations.

The chateau had suffered damage during the Hundred Years’ War, prompting Antoine de Salignac to undertake significant restoration work in the 1470s. It’s fascinating to see how different eras have left their mark on the architecture. The castle became a coseigneury in the 13th century, with each lord owning a part of the fortifications. It fell into disrepair from the 16th century due to lack of maintenance but was bought back in 2006, and its owners embarked on a project to bring Salignac back to its 15th-century glory.
Wandering through the grounds, I tried to imagine what life must have been like within those walls centuries ago. The views from the ramparts were breathtaking, a panoramic vista of the rolling Périgord countryside. I could almost picture knights standing guard, watching for invaders. It’s amazing how a place can transport you to another time. We spent a couple of hours exploring every nook and cranny, taking photos, and soaking in the atmosphere. It’s a testament to the enduring allure of medieval architecture and the importance of preserving such landmarks for future generations.


Explore the enchanting Château de Salignac, a cultural landmark steeped in history and surrounded by stunning gardens in the heart of Salignac-Eyvigues.

After our historical immersion, we drove to La Taverne de Lou Castelou in La Roque-Gageac for lunch. This charming restaurant offered traditional Périgordian fare in a cozy setting. I decided to try the cassoulet, a hearty dish that perfectly captured the rustic flavors of the region. My friends opted for salads and burgers, and everyone seemed pleased with their choices. The service was friendly, and the atmosphere was relaxed, making it an ideal spot to recharge after our morning of exploration.

With our bellies full, we ventured into the Gorges de l'Auvézère. This natural wonder is a stark contrast to the man-made grandeur of the Château de Salignac, but equally captivating. The Auvézère River has carved a dramatic landscape, with cliffs, lush greenery, and crystal-clear waters. It's a paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

We chose a hiking trail that wound along the river, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the surroundings. The air was fresh and clean, filled with the scent of damp earth and foliage. The sound of the river rushing over rocks was a constant, soothing presence. As we walked, we admired the diverse flora and fauna, keeping an eye out for the various bird species that call this area home.

The Gorges de l'Auvézère offer a variety of trails, from family-friendly paths to more challenging routes. We opted for a moderate hike, which still provided plenty of opportunities to admire the breathtaking vistas. The Escaleyrou viewpoint, which culminates at the top of the cliff of the “End of the world”, overhanging Aubas, sounded particularly tempting, but we decided to save that for another visit. The autumn colors were starting to emerge, painting the landscape in hues of red, orange, and gold. I made sure to capture as many photos as possible, wanting to preserve these memories forever.


Discover the wild beauty of Gorges de l'Auvézère in Périgord Vert: hiking, kayaking, and natural wonders await in this protected landscape.

It was invigorating to be surrounded by nature, away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I felt a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me. It's moments like these that remind me of the importance of disconnecting from technology and reconnecting with the natural world. The Gorges de l'Auvézère is a testament to the beauty and power of nature, a place where you can truly escape and find solace.

Before heading back, we made a quick stop at Maison de la Presse in Salignac-Eyvigues. I wanted to pick up a local newspaper and a few postcards to send to Mei-Ling and Lin. It's a small shop, but it had everything I needed. I even found a book on the history of Périgord Noir, which I added to my growing collection.


Explore the authentic culture of La Coquille at Maison de la Presse, a charming tobacco shop offering local specialties and a cozy atmosphere.

Our final stop for the day was at Hôtel Restaurant Le Centenaire for dinner. After a day of exploring, we were all ready for a good meal. The restaurant had a lovely ambiance, and the menu featured regional specialties. I chose the sea bass, while others opted for burgers. The food was delicious, and the service was attentive. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day. I am so glad we chose to come here for dinner after hearing about their diverse cuisine.


Experience delightful French and Mediterranean cuisine at Hôtel Restaurant Le Centenaire in scenic Les Eyzies.

As I sit here reflecting on the day, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. Périgord Noir has exceeded all my expectations. It's a region of stunning beauty, rich history, and warm hospitality. I'm so grateful to be sharing these experiences with my friends. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Fort de La Roque-Gageac and explore the medieval village. I can’t wait to see what other treasures this region holds.

Looking ahead, I'm excited about the adventures that await us on our remaining days in Périgord Noir. I am also mindful of the essentials I forgot to pack, the portable phone charger and the rain jacket, and will try to purchase them tomorrow if I can. Good planning is essential, as is flexibility.

“Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.”

Until tomorrow,
Chih-Ming