Cultural Immersion in the Heart of Périgord Noir

Whispers of the Past, Echoes of the Future

Today, the seventh day of our Périgord Noir adventure, felt like stepping through a series of time portals. From the Renaissance elegance of a château to the echoing chambers of a prehistoric cave, each experience deepened my connection to this land and its stories. It's days like these that remind me why I traded the predictable comfort of my Kelowna orchard for the unpredictable thrill of travel.

Our day began with breakfast at Le Saint Cochon in Beaumontois-en-Périgord. The name alone piqued my curiosity, and the Belgian and French cuisine did not disappoint. I savored a delectable filet mignon, perfectly cooked, while Mei-Ling enjoyed a classic French breakfast. Lin, of course, opted for something sweet – a *parfait* that disappeared in record time. Fuelled up, we set off for our first destination: Château de Puyguilhem.


Explore the stunning Château de Puyguilhem, a Renaissance treasure in France, rich in history and architectural beauty, perfect for all tourists.
The drive itself was a treat, the rolling hills of Périgord Vert painted in autumnal hues. The French countryside always reminds me of the tea plantations back in Douliu, Taiwan, where I spent my childhood. There's a similar sense of peace and connection to the land, a feeling that always grounds me, no matter how far I travel.

Arriving at Château de Puyguilhem, I was immediately struck by its elegant silhouette against the backdrop of the Villars woods. This Renaissance château, built in the early 16th century, exudes a sense of refined beauty. Mondot de la Marthonie, the original owner, intended it as a secondary residence and hunting lodge. As I walked through the rooms, I could almost picture him, a close friend of Francis I, returning from the hunt to relax in these very halls.

The interior was wonderfully restored. The grand staircase led us to the main hall, where we admired the exceptional fireplace depicting the twelve labors of Hercules. The craftsmanship was stunning, a testament to the artistry of the Renaissance. Lin was particularly fascinated by the oak frame in the shape of an overturned boat hull on the top floor. It sparked her imagination, and she began weaving tales of seafaring adventures. I was reminded of stories my grandfather used to tell me about Zheng He's voyages, the legendary Chinese explorer. Travel truly is the best education.

To travel is to take a journey into yourself.

After the château, we stopped at Les Producteurs du Périgord Vert in Saint-Pierre-de-Frugie. This shop was a treasure trove of local delicacies. We picked up some foie gras, a few jars of *confit de canard*, and a bottle of local wine. I'm always eager to support local producers, and this place was a perfect example of the region's rich culinary heritage. The shop had a fantastic reputation, and the staff were very welcoming. It reminded me of visiting the farmer's markets back in Kelowna, where I love to connect with the people who grow our food.


Experience the best of organic produce at Les Producteurs du Périgord Vert, a local treasure in Saint-Pierre-de-Frugie, France.
Lunch was at Le Corgnacois in Corgnac-sur-l'Isle. This restaurant is known for its excellent cuisine and friendly atmosphere. The menu featured fresh, local ingredients, and the dishes were both delicious and beautifully presented. I opted for the lunch menu, which was an incredible value – five courses and a glass of wine! Mei-Ling enjoyed a tasty salad, while Lin devoured a burger. The owner was attentive and charming, making us feel right at home. We learned that the chef, Jérémy, collaborates with local producers to create seasonal dishes. It's this commitment to local sourcing that makes the food here so special. It reminded me of the importance of sustainable agriculture, a topic close to my heart.


Discover authentic French cuisine in the heart of Corgnac-sur-l'Isle at Le Corgnacois, where every meal tells a story.
In the afternoon, we ventured into the depths of Rouffignac Cave. This was, without a doubt, the highlight of the day. Known as the Cave of a Hundred Mammoths, Rouffignac is one of the largest decorated caves known, stretching for eight kilometers. The cave has been known since the 15th century.


Discover the wonders of Rouffignac Cave, a prehistoric gem in the Dordogne, showcasing ancient art and stunning natural formations.
What made this experience truly unique was the electric train that took us through the cave's galleries. As we rumbled along, our guide explained that prehistoric artists decorated these walls around 15,000 years ago, drawing and engraving over 250 representations of bison, horses, ibexes, rhinoceroses, and, of course, mammoths. The sheer scale of the cave was awe-inspiring, and the sight of those ancient drawings, illuminated by the train's lights, sent shivers down my spine.

The train ride lasted about an hour, and the temperature inside the cave was noticeably cooler. I was glad I had remembered to bring a jacket. Lin was captivated by the mammoths, asking endless questions about their size, their lives, and the people who drew them. It was a powerful reminder of our shared human history, a connection that transcends time and cultures. I thought about the stories my ancestors told around the fire in Taiwan, and I wondered what stories the artists of Rouffignac Cave shared with their families.

Our final stop of the day was dinner at Les Machicoulis in Sarlat-la-Caneda. This restaurant offered a delightful dining experience with classic French food and fantastic views. We enjoyed dishes like roast duck, smoked trout, and the exquisite crème brûlée. The setting, under a fig tree with a view of the castle, added to the tranquility of the place. The staff were friendly and accommodating, making us feel welcome. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with history and wonder.


Experience authentic French cuisine at Les Machicoulis in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, where tradition meets flavor in a charming setting.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude. Today was a reminder of the power of travel to connect us to the past, to each other, and to ourselves. Tomorrow, we plan to explore Grotte du Grand Roc and Commarque Castle. I'm excited to see what new adventures await us. I'm also looking forward to trying out L Ourasi, a local bar. Until then, *bonne nuit* from Périgord Noir.