Cultural Immersion in the Heart of Périgord Noir

Chasing History and Beauty in Périgord Noir

Today, our adventure in Périgord Noir took us through time and beauty, exploring the legacy of strong women and the artistry of sculpted nature. It was a day filled with awe and wonder, reminding me of the importance of preserving history and cherishing the beauty around us. The crisp October air added a touch of magic to the already enchanting atmosphere, making it a day I will always remember.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Château le Verdoyer. The camping, chambres d'hôtes, restaurant and bar offered a delightful start to the day. Fuelled up, we set off to Château des Milandes, a place steeped in history and charm.


Explore the captivating Château des Milandes, a historic castle in the heart of Dordogne, France, featuring exquisite gardens and delightful French cuisine.

Château des Milandes: A Glimpse into Josephine Baker's World

As we approached Château des Milandes, the turreted silhouette against the clear blue sky immediately transported us to another era. Built in 1489, the castle exudes Renaissance elegance, but it's the story of its most famous resident, Josephine Baker, that truly captivated me. I had read about her life, but walking through the rooms where she lived with her 'Rainbow Tribe' of adopted children, I felt a profound connection to her vision of unity and love. The audio guide provided insightful commentary, painting a vivid picture of Baker's life and legacy.

The castle itself is a marvel, with lovely terraces and gardens that offer breathtaking views of the Dordogne Valley. While photography wasn't allowed inside, the sumptuous furniture and outfits that once belonged to Josephine Baker were displayed.

The spirit of Josephine Baker lives on within those walls, a testament to her courage, creativity, and unwavering belief in a better world.

One of the highlights was the falconry demonstration in the gardens. It was amazing to watch these majestic birds soar through the air, their movements precise and graceful. I even had the chance to have one of the birds land on my arm ! It was an exhilarating experience, connecting me with nature in a way I had never imagined.

After thoroughly exploring the château and its grounds, we were ready for lunch. We drove to Brantôme, known as the Venice of Périgord, to dine at Le Moulin de l'Abbaye.


Discover exquisite French cuisine and serene accommodations at Le Moulin de l'Abbaye in Brantôme en Périgord.

Gastronomic Delights at Le Moulin de l'Abbaye

Le Moulin de l'Abbaye is nestled within the grounds of a picture-perfect hotel, set alongside the River Dronne. The dining room exuded class, and the waterside terrace, shaded by trees, offered an idyllic setting. The restaurant has a Michelin star , and the food lived up to its reputation. I savored the amuse-bouche, the fish, and the lamb, each dish a work of art. Mei-Ling particularly enjoyed the foie gras and the soufflé. The service was impeccable, and the ambiance was perfect for a leisurely lunch with friends.

With our appetites satisfied, we set off for our next destination: The Gardens of Eyrignac Manor.


Explore the stunning Gardens of Eyrignac Manor, where history meets nature in a picturesque setting perfect for relaxation and inspiration.

The Gardens of Eyrignac Manor: A Symphony of Green

As we entered The Gardens of Eyrignac Manor, we were immediately transported into a world of sculpted greenery. These gardens are a testament to the art of topiary, with over 300 plant sculptures meticulously maintained by a team of dedicated gardeners. The history of the gardens is fascinating; created in the 18th century, they were transformed into English romantic gardens in the 19th century, before being restored to their original French design in the mid-20th century.

The gardens are open every day of the year, and I can see why nearly 80,000 visitors come each year. The interplay of perspectives, the arabesques of boxwood, and the gushing fountains create a mesmerizing experience. We wandered through the French garden, the Jardin des Sources, and the Jardin Fleuriste, each offering a unique sensory experience.

The White Rose Garden was a highlight, with its flower garlands and beds offering a stunning view of the Dordogne countryside. The autumn colors were just beginning to emerge, adding a touch of warmth to the landscape. It was a photographer’s dream, and I spent a happy hour capturing the beauty of the gardens from every angle.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to La Jolie Guinguette for dinner.


Experience authentic French cuisine at La Jolie Guinguette in La Chapelle-Montbrandeix - where culinary tradition meets rustic charm.

A Rustic Evening at La Jolie Guinguette

La Jolie Guinguette, located in La Chapelle-Montbrandeix, is a charming restaurant that captures the essence of French gastronomy. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, with rustic touches that reflected the beauty of the surrounding landscape. We sat on the terrace, enjoying the bucolic atmosphere and the conviviality of the place.

The menu offered a variety of classic French dishes, and we indulged in the coq au vin and the ratatouille, each dish prepared with local ingredients and seasonal produce. We paired our meal with local wines, enhancing the dining experience. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and discovery.

After dinner, we headed to Bar Des Amis for a nightcap. The bar had a cozy and casual atmosphere, and we enjoyed a selection of beverages, including local beer, wine, and spirits. It was a great place to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures.


Experience the heart of Brantôme at Bar Des Amis, where fine food and drinks meet warm French hospitality in a charming setting.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Château de Puyguilhem and Rouffignac Cave. I'm particularly excited about seeing the prehistoric cave paintings at Rouffignac. But for now, it's time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of exploration in this beautiful region of France.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy a portable phone charger. Relying on finding charging spots throughout the day is proving to be less than ideal. I also realized I should have packed a rain jacket. The weather has been mostly cooperative, but a bit of rain is always a possibility in October.