Cultural Immersion in the Heart of Périgord Noir

A Day of Legends and Landscapes

Today was a day of diving deep into the heart of Périgord Noir's history and artistry. From the haunting tales of a château to the breathtaking views from sculpted gardens, every moment felt like stepping into a storybook. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel – to uncover the layers of history and culture that shape a place, and to share those discoveries with you all.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Le Saint Jean in Sarlat-la-Canéda. Sipping my *café au lait* and enjoying a *croissant*, I felt energized for the adventures that lay ahead. The crisp morning air hinted at the beauty of autumn, a perfect setting for exploring ancient stones and manicured gardens. Mei-Ling and Lin were especially excited, having heard whispers of ghostly legends and seen pictures of the garden's whimsical shapes.

Our first stop was the Château de Puymartin, a fortress steeped in history and legend. As we approached, the honey-colored towers seemed to rise from the landscape like a scene from a fairytale. The castle's origins date back to the 13th century, serving as a strategic stronghold during the Hundred Years' War. But it's the legend of the White Lady that truly captured my imagination.


Explore the enchanting Château de Puymartin, a medieval castle in Sarlat-la-Canéda, rich in history and breathtaking views of the Dordogne landscape.
According to the tale, Thérèse de Saint-Clar, the wife of Jean de Saint-Clar, was caught in the arms of her lover. In a fit of rage, her husband killed the lover and imprisoned Thérèse in a small room in the castle's north tower, where she spent the rest of her days. Legend has it that her spirit still roams the castle, appearing as a pale, ghostly figure wandering the corridors at night. As we walked through the castle, I couldn't help but feel a chill in the air, wondering if we might catch a glimpse of the White Lady ourselves. Lin was especially captivated by the story, her eyes wide with a mixture of fear and excitement.

History and legend intertwine within these ancient walls, creating an atmosphere that is both captivating and haunting.

After exploring the depths of Château de Puymartin, we drove to La Taverne Du Boucher for lunch. This restaurant is known for its delicious French cuisine and inviting atmosphere. The decor was indeed inviting, a welcome change from the autumn air outside. I enjoyed a tasty prime rib roast, while Mei-Ling savored the ribs, and Lin had fish. The staff was attentive, and the service was excellent.

With our bellies full, we set off to explore The Marqueyssac gardens. This was perhaps the most anticipated part of the day, and it did not disappoint. As we approached, the gardens unfolded before us like a dreamscape of sculpted boxwood. Perched high above the Dordogne River on a rocky outcrop, the gardens offer a panoramic view of the valley below.


Explore the enchanting Marqueyssac Gardens in the Dordogne, where artful landscapes and breathtaking views create an unforgettable experience.
The gardens are home to over 150,000 boxwood trees, each one hand-pruned into fantastic shapes. Walking through the winding paths, we were surrounded by rounded shapes that resembled flocks of sheep, adding a touch of whimsy to the landscape. The gardens also feature linden trees, cypress trees, and stone pine from Italy, creating a diverse and enchanting environment.

We chose to take the Cliff Walk, which offered stunning views of the valley and led us to the Belvedere, the highest point in the gardens. From there, we could see the Château de Beynac and the village of La Roque-Gageac, spread out like a living map below. Lin was particularly delighted by the peacocks roaming freely throughout the gardens, their vibrant colors adding to the magical atmosphere.

The history of the Marqueyssac gardens is as fascinating as the landscape itself. The gardens were created in the 19th century by Julien de Cerval, who transformed the grounds of the 17th-century Château de Marqueyssac into a romantic landscape garden. Cerval's vision was to create a space that complemented the natural beauty of the cliff-top terrain, and he succeeded in creating a true masterpiece.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the gardens, we made our way to Le Bistrot du Château for dinner. This charming bistro offered a cozy atmosphere and a menu of classic French dishes. I enjoyed a perfectly cooked *filet mignon*, while Mei-Ling opted for the *escargots*. Lin, of course, chose the *panna cotta* for dessert. It was the perfect end to a day filled with history, beauty, and culinary delights.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped by La Harpe for a nightcap. This cozy bar was the perfect spot to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. As I sipped my drink, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of Périgord Noir with my loved ones.

As I think about tomorrow, I'm excited to explore the Fortified House of Reignac and the Château et jardins de Losse. I'm also looking forward to visiting Au Plaisir du Chineur, a local shop, to see if I can find any unique treasures.

I'm also grateful that I remembered to pack my camera, hiking boots and travel guide for Périgord Noir, as well as my reusable water bottle and notebook for journaling. However, I'm still kicking myself for forgetting my portable phone charger and rain jacket.

Today was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about experiencing new things, learning new stories, and creating memories that will last a lifetime. And as I drift off to sleep tonight, I'll be dreaming of white ladies and sculpted boxwood, eager for the adventures that tomorrow will bring.