Exploring the Renaissance Charm of Urbino with Family

Echoes of Life and Death in Urbino

Today was a day of contrasts, a poignant dance between solemn reflection and vibrant life here in Urbino. It’s funny how travel can throw these unexpected juxtapositions your way, offering a deeper understanding of a place and its people. Urbino, with its Renaissance charm, certainly knows how to keep a traveler on their toes.

Our day began, rather unusually, at the Church of the Dead. Now, I know what you might be thinking – a bit morbid for a family vacation, right? But Mei-Ling, ever the historian, had read about the Chiesa dei Morti in Urbania. It's a small church that houses naturally mummified bodies, preserved by a unique mold in the soil. It sounded intriguing, a glimpse into the past that transcended the usual museum visit. So, after a quick breakfast at Ristorante CNF: Chick•N•Fries - Urbino, where Lin enjoyed her usual chicken and fries, and I grabbed a quick coffee, we set off. I must admit, even though I am used to managing the orchard back home, the mix of modern fast food and ancient history was a little surreal. The reviews said their chicken was good, but I was still a little hesitant to try it. It was surprisingly tasty, though! I think Lin enjoyed it more than I did, but that's not saying much.

Finding the Church of the Dead was an experience in itself. It's located in the nearby town of Urbania, which until 1639 was known as Casteldurante. The drive there was beautiful. Rolling hills and quaint countryside views. The church itself is tucked away in a quiet corner of Urbania. The exterior is unassuming, but as we stepped inside, a chill ran down my spine, and it wasn't just from the temperature. Eighteen mummified bodies stood upright in glass cases. Each one had a story to tell, from a miner with lung cancer to a woman who died during childbirth. It was a sobering experience, a stark reminder of our mortality. The Confraternity of Good Death, established in 1567, originally aimed to give honorable burials to the poor and keep records of the dead. It’s incredible how their work has preserved these stories for centuries. Lin, surprisingly, was fascinated, asking questions about each person and their life. It sparked a conversation about life, death, and remembrance that I wasn't expecting to have on this trip, but one I deeply appreciated.

Visiting the Church of the Dead was a stark reminder of life's fragility, yet it also deepened our appreciation for the present moment.

After such a heavy start to the day, we needed a change of pace. We decided to head to Piazza della Repubblica back in Urbino, the heart of the city. It’s a gathering place for locals and students, a hub of activity and energy. As soon as we arrived, the atmosphere shifted. The sun was shining, children were playing, and the air was filled with the sounds of laughter and conversation. It was a welcome contrast to the somber mood of the morning.


Explore the bustling charm of Piazza della Repubblica, the vibrant heart of Urbino, where history meets modern-day Italian culture.
We strolled through the piazza, admiring the Palazzo degli Scolopi and Palazzo del Legato Albani. I couldn’t help but notice the number of students around, likely from the Carlo Bo University. It gave the place a youthful, vibrant feel. We stopped at Camera A Sud for lunch, a charming spot with outdoor seating. Mei-Ling and I shared a piadina, while Lin opted for a simple pasta dish. The food was delicious, and the service was excellent. It was the perfect place to soak in the atmosphere of the piazza and watch the world go by. I was also able to grab an espresso, which was much needed after the morning's events. I overheard a couple of students discussing the upcoming Career Day at Collegio Raffaello, which reminded me of my own university days back in Taiwan. How quickly time flies!

Later in the afternoon, while Mei-Ling and Lin explored some of the local shops, I found myself drawn to Caffè Raffaello. It was the perfect place to sit, relax, and people-watch. I ordered a glass of local wine and watched as people passed by. I saw students chatting, families laughing, and couples holding hands. It was a beautiful tapestry of life unfolding before my eyes. The reviews mentioned their excellent crostini, but I was too full from lunch to try them. Maybe tomorrow. The caffè seemed to be a popular spot for locals, a testament to its quality and atmosphere.


Discover the essence of Italian wine culture at Caffè Raffaello, a cozy wine bar in the heart of Urbino, offering exquisite wines and delightful local dishes.
For dinner, we decided on Ristorante Nenè, drawn in by its promise of traditional Marche dishes. The restaurant is set in a beautiful country house amidst the rolling hills of Urbino. As we arrived, we were greeted by a friendly black kitten, who seemed to guide us to the entrance. It felt like something out of a movie! The menu was filled with local specialties, and we decided to try a few different dishes to share. The ravioli and pizza were exceptional. The staff were kind and friendly, making us feel right at home. It was the perfect end to a day of contrasts, a reminder that even in the face of death, life continues, vibrant and full of flavor.


Discover Ristorante Nenè in Urbino for authentic Italian cuisine amid stunning Renaissance architecture.
As the sun set, casting a golden glow over the hills, we headed back to Hotel Raffaello. I thought about the day's experiences – the solemnity of the Church of the Dead and the joyful energy of Piazza della Repubblica. It was a day that challenged my perspectives and deepened my appreciation for the beauty and complexity of life. As we prepare for tomorrow’s adventures—a visit to Portici Ercolani and Furlo Pass—I am grateful for these moments of reflection and connection. I am excited to see what wonders tomorrow will bring. I am especially excited for the Furlo Pass, as I have read it is a beautiful place for hiking and mountain-biking. Maybe I'll even take some photos to share with you all. And who knows, maybe Lin will find a new favorite spot! Good night from Urbino.


Discover the charm of Urbino at Hotel Raffaello, where comfort meets convenience in a centrally located haven for travelers and tourists.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Portici Ercolani and the Furlo Pass. I've heard the natural beauty of the Furlo Pass is breathtaking, and I'm looking forward to a day immersed in nature. We'll also be trying out MYSTIC PIZZA di Pasini Maurizio for breakfast, Atabulus Enoteca con cucina for lunch, and Ristorante Pizzeria Locanda Del Blasone for dinner. And, of course, a stop at Streetweed_urbino for a bit of local shopping. It promises to be another day filled with new experiences and discoveries. I can't wait to share it with you all!