A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a beautiful blend of ancient reverence and modern indulgence. As I continue my solo pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo, I find myself increasingly drawn to the stories etched in the landscape, the echoes of centuries of travelers who have walked these same paths. The day was filled with both natural beauty and culinary adventures, a true feast for the senses.

My day began with a delightful breakfast at the Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table. It's always a treat starting the day with a good meal, and the setting of the guesthouse added to the charm. The guest house is a true gem, blending rustic charm with culinary sophistication. Giovanni, the chef, creates magic with locally sourced ingredients, and his passion for Italian cuisine shines through every dish. I savored a simple yet satisfying breakfast, fueling up for the day's explorations. I've found that these quieter moments, enjoying local cuisine, truly enrich my travel experience. I made a mental note to perhaps return for dinner one evening, especially after learning it was listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. Berlin has some great Michelin star restaurants, but there's something special about enjoying such cuisine in a rural Japanese setting.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

Every step on this journey is a step back in time, a chance to connect with the spirits of those who walked here before me.

My first stop was the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree. This ancient tree is a true marvel, estimated to be over a thousand years old. As I stood beneath its towering branches, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and reverence. The tree is not just a natural wonder; it's a living monument steeped in history and cultural significance. The Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree stands as a testament to resilience and longevity, a symbol of hope and endurance in Japanese culture. Although I am visiting in the summer, I imagine it would be stunning in autumn when its leaves transform into a brilliant yellow. The surrounding area offered a scenic landscape perfect for a leisurely stroll, allowing me to fully appreciate the beauty of nature and the tranquility it provides. I took a moment to pause and reflect in this serene environment, feeling a deep connection to the earth and the generations of people who have found solace in this place.


Explore the ancient beauty of the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Ginkgo Tree, a symbol of resilience and tranquility in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

Next on my itinerary was Fudarakusan-ji, a Tendai temple with a fascinating and somewhat somber history. Established over a thousand years ago, this temple is named after Fudaraku, the Japanese name for Mount Potalaka, the mythical dwelling of the Buddhist bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. What struck me most was learning about the Fudaraku Tokai ritual, a practice where monks would set sail in small, sealed boats, hoping to reach the Pure Land far to the south. It was a ritual of self-martyrdom, a testament to their unwavering faith and devotion. The temple itself was small, but the pavilion displaying a replica of the boat used in the Fudaraku Tokai ritual was particularly moving. It's a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made in the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range in 2004, further solidifying its importance.


Experience serenity and spirituality at Fudarakusan-ji Temple, a hidden gem in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for cultural exploration and reflection.

For lunch, I stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a charming rest stop converted from a 130-year-old house. It was a delightful experience to savor local specialties and takeaway snacks in such a historic setting. The building itself is designated as a national tangible cultural property, adding to its appeal. I enjoyed a simple but satisfying meal, taking in the atmosphere and appreciating the preservation of this traditional building. It's these small, authentic experiences that make traveling so rewarding.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

As the afternoon waned, I found myself craving something sweet, and dinner was going to be at Sukiya R42 Kumano. I decided to try club Aria in Kumano. It was a night filled with laughter, good music, and the kind of camaraderie that only happens when you step outside your comfort zone. I was initially a little hesitant, being a solo traveler, but the staff and locals were incredibly welcoming. The music was a mix of classic tunes and modern hits, and the atmosphere was lively and energetic. I even managed to try my hand at karaoke, much to the amusement of my new friends. It was a fun and unexpected way to experience the local culture, and I left with a smile on my face and a few new contacts in my phone. I have been trying to improve my German since moving to Berlin, and I should probably put the same effort into learning Japanese! I'll add it to my list of hobbies.


Discover the allure of Tokyo's nightlife at Club Aria, where captivating performances meet an unforgettable atmosphere in Shinagawa City.

For dinner, I opted for Sukiya R42 Kumano. After the bar, I was in need of a hearty meal. It was a perfect way to end the day. Sukiya is a well-loved dining spot known for its diverse menu of Japanese comfort food. I indulged in their signature beef rice bowl, a hearty and flavorful dish that hit the spot. The restaurant's friendly staff and affordable prices made it an even more enjoyable experience. With its extensive breakfast options, I made a mental note to consider it for an early morning meal sometime. I also appreciated that they offer takeout services, perfect for enjoying a meal at a nearby park or on the go.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Sukiya R42 Kumano, where delicious meals await in a cozy family-friendly setting.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this beautiful and culturally rich region. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with the past, and a celebration of the present. The blend of ancient sites, natural wonders, and culinary delights has made this day truly unforgettable.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Kamikura Shrine and Seiganto-ji. I am looking forward to exploring more of Kumano's sacred sites and natural beauty. I'm particularly excited about the prospect of visiting Kamikura Shrine, known for its dramatic setting and spiritual significance. I anticipate another day filled with exploration, reflection, and unforgettable experiences.

I am also looking forward to trying some new restaurants including Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall for breakfast, Kakinoate for lunch, and Hinoki Steak House for dinner. I am also planning on doing some shopping at Moudemochi.

Until then, I bid you goodnight from Kumano, where the whispers of the past continue to inspire and the tastes of the present delight. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings as my solo pilgrimage continues.