A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Ascending to the Divine

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of physical exertion and spiritual reflection, all wrapped in the stunning natural beauty that defines the Kumano Kodo. From the steep steps of Kamikura Shrine to the serene presence of Seiganto-ji, and the delightful tastes of local cuisine, every moment was a testament to the unique charm of this pilgrimage.

The day began early, with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. I fueled up with a traditional Japanese breakfast, the perfect preparation for the day's adventures. As I sipped my tea and enjoyed the simple yet satisfying meal, I reflected on the past ten days of my solo journey, how the quietude and solitude have allowed me to reconnect with myself. It's funny how sometimes, being alone in a new place can make you feel more at home within yourself. Maybe Berlin has been great, but too chaotic.

My first stop was the Kamikura Shrine. I knew from my research that reaching the shrine involved climbing 538 steep stone steps, but nothing could have prepared me for the actual experience. The steps were uneven, varying in height and depth, a testament to the shrine's ancient origins. It felt like a physical challenge, a test of endurance, but with each step, I also felt a sense of anticipation, a growing excitement about what awaited me at the top. It was a bit like learning a new coding language, each line a challenge, but the end result always worth the effort.
As I ascended, the views began to open up, offering glimpses of Shingu City and the Kumano-nada Sea. The higher I climbed, the more breathtaking the panorama became. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of the surrounding forest. I paused frequently, not just to catch my breath, but to soak in the beauty of the landscape. I even forgot to apply sunscreen, one of the items I forgot to bring, which I'll need to remedy soon before my Florida skin starts to suffer.

Finally, I reached the top, and the sight that greeted me was truly awe-inspiring. The **Gotobiki-iwa**, a massive, sacred rock, dominated the shrine grounds. This rock is revered as the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities, and its presence exuded a palpable sense of power and spirituality. I spent some time simply sitting there, absorbing the energy of the place, feeling a deep connection to the natural world and the ancient traditions of Kumano. The view from the shrine was unparalleled, a sweeping vista of the city and the sea, a reward for the arduous climb.

Sometimes, the greatest journeys are not about the destination, but about the obstacles we overcome along the way.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, I made my way to Kakinoate for lunch. This charming sushi restaurant, located near the entrance of the Hayatama Taisha shrine, is known for its unique persimmon leaf-wrapped sushi. I opted for the set with both salmon and mackerel, eager to taste this local delicacy. The sushi was exquisite. The vinegared rice had a delicate flavor, enhanced by the subtle aroma of the persimmon leaves. It was a delightful culinary experience, a perfect complement to the spiritual and physical journey of the morning. The owners were incredibly friendly and spoke English, offering recommendations for other local attractions. They suggested I try their homemade bisque cheesecake, which paired perfectly with a cup of black coffee. I enjoyed chatting with them about the history of the area and their passion for preserving local traditions. It reminded me of the small cafes in Berlin, where you can always find someone with a story to tell.
Next on my itinerary was Seiganto-ji, a Buddhist temple with a history stretching back to the 4th century. The temple is located near Nachi Falls, one of Japan's tallest waterfalls, and the combination of the temple's serene architecture and the waterfall's raw power created a truly magical atmosphere. Legend has it that the temple was founded when a monk, inspired by the Nachi waterfall, placed an image of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of compassion, at the heart of the temple. The main temple, rebuilt in 1590, is considered a significant cultural asset, and its wooden structure and traditional architecture blended seamlessly with the surrounding forest.

I climbed the 473 stone steps leading to the temple, each step bringing me closer to a sense of peace and tranquility. The air was filled with the sound of the waterfall, a constant reminder of the power and beauty of nature. As I explored the temple grounds, I marveled at the intricate details of the architecture, the delicate carvings, and the vibrant colors. I visited the three-storied pagoda, which offered stunning views of the waterfall and the surrounding landscape. It was a moment of profound serenity, a chance to disconnect from the world and connect with something larger than myself. The temple's proximity and historical connection to the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine, representing both Buddhism and Shinto, symbolized Japan's cultural and religious fusion.
Before dinner, I stopped by Moudemochi to pick up some of their famous pilgrimage rice cakes. These glutinous rice cakes, filled with smooth red bean paste and dusted with brown rice powder, are a local specialty, representing the warm and humble spirit of the Kumano region. They are only sold at locations near the three Kumano Sanzan shrines, making them a truly unique souvenir. I bought a box to share with my family back in Florida, a taste of Kumano to bring home with me.
For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Hinoki Steak House in Shingu. This steakhouse, which has been run by the same family since 1972, is known for its high-quality Kumano beef. I ordered the Kumano beef steak, cooked medium-rare, and it was simply divine. The beef was tender and juicy, with a rich, flavorful taste that melted in my mouth. The meal was a perfect end to a perfect day, a celebration of the culinary delights of Kumano. It was a bit of a splurge, but after all the hiking, I felt I deserved it. It was definitely better than some of the burnt steaks one reviewer mentioned from 2018, so I'm glad I took the chance.
As I walked back to my accommodation, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the physical challenge of Kamikura Shrine to the spiritual serenity of Seiganto-ji, and the culinary delights of Kakinoate and Hinoki Steak House, every moment had been a testament to the unique charm of the Kumano Kodo. I felt grateful for the opportunity to explore this beautiful and sacred place, to connect with its history and culture, and to discover a deeper connection with myself. Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Kumano Kodo Information Center and the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship, and perhaps end the day with a drink at HANGOVER bar. I'm looking forward to another day of exploration and discovery, another day of walking the path of the Kumano Kodo. It's funny how a simple walk can lead to so much more. Maybe I'll even start walking more when I get back to Berlin. Perhaps along the Spree...