Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima with Friends

Day 10: Whispers of Ancient Cedars: A Day of Discovery in Yakushima

Discover the magic of Yakushima with David as he explores ancient cedars, lush gardens, and local flavors on this captivating island.

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Guardians of Time and Verdant Delights




Today was a day of profound connection with nature, a gentle reminder of the earth's enduring spirit. Yakushima continues to unveil its treasures, offering moments of awe and quiet contemplation. From the embrace of an ancient cedar to the vibrant hues of a botanical garden, it was a day that nourished the soul.



The morning began with a hearty breakfast at hiyoriya. Emily and I were excited to try this place as it's known for its plant-based Japanese-style dishes. It was a delightful start to the day, fueling us up for our exploration of Yakushima's ancient wonders. I had read about hiyoriya being a vegan-friendly restaurant on the island, and it did not disappoint. They source everything locally and make it in-house, so it was a great way to support the local community while enjoying a delicious meal. I made sure to reserve a table in advance, as it's a small place with limited seating. Emily and I enjoyed the beautifully presented set meals with fresh tofu, miso soup, brown rice, and organic vegetables. It was the perfect way to start our day of exploring the island.

Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.
Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.

Our first stop was the Kigensugi Cedar, a majestic tree that stands as a sentinel of time. Reaching it involved a scenic drive, the winding roads offering glimpses of Yakushima's mountainous terrain. The Kigensugi is easily accessible, located right by the roadside, making it the most accessible ancient cedar on the island. Standing before it, I was struck by its immense size and the palpable sense of history it emanated. At an elevation of about 1200 meters, the Kigensugi Cedar is estimated to be 3,000 years old. The tree is 19.5 meters tall and 8.1 meters around. What's particularly fascinating is that more than 10 kinds of other plants, such as the Japanese cypress, grow from the tree. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the earth's enduring legacy.

Explore the iconic Kigensugi Cedar in Yakushima, a 1,000-year-old natural marvel surrounded by stunning hiking trails and rich biodiversity.
Explore the iconic Kigensugi Cedar in Yakushima, a 1,000-year-old natural marvel surrounded by stunning hiking trails and rich biodiversity.

The forest speaks in whispers, revealing secrets only to those who listen with their hearts.




From the ancient cedar, we journeyed to the Botanic gardens, a sanctuary of vibrant flora. The gardens showcased an impressive collection of indigenous species, many unique to Yakushima. As a marine biologist, I found myself equally captivated by the terrestrial plant life. Emily, with her keen interest in history, appreciated the gardens' role in preserving the island's natural heritage. We wandered through the meticulously curated pathways, admiring the towering trees and delicate flowers. The signage provided insightful information about the ecological significance of the various species, adding an educational dimension to our visit. I was excited to see the Yakushima rhododendrons, which are endemic to Yakushima and designated as the official flower of Yakushima Town. The gardens also serve as a vital conservation effort, helping to protect and propagate rare and endangered plants that are native to Yakushima. It was a tranquil retreat, a reminder of the intricate beauty of the natural world.

Discover the breathtaking beauty of Yakushima's Botanic Gardens, a lush sanctuary of biodiversity and tranquility in Japan's natural wonderland.
Discover the breathtaking beauty of Yakushima's Botanic Gardens, a lush sanctuary of biodiversity and tranquility in Japan's natural wonderland.

For lunch, we ventured to Subarashi Indian Restaurant. I know, I know, Indian food in Japan? But after days of Japanese cuisine, we were craving something different. And Subarashi came highly recommended. It was nice to have a Nepali restaurant on Yakushima, and it's exciting to see more options. The restaurant includes a range of vegetarian curries that can be made vegan when ordered without butter/ghee. We specified no dairy when ordering. I opted for the eggplant curry, which was delicious. The service was friendly and quick, and they even sell some ingredients and snacks.

Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.
Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Matsutake for dinner. This soba restaurant is set in a charming building that exudes history, offering flavorful soba. The thin, chewy soba, chilled in cold water, pairs perfectly with the richly flavored dipping sauce. The calm atmosphere is very appealing. You can enjoy soba in a traditional Japanese house-style interior that feels historical. The cool space and the greenery of the garden create a refreshing atmosphere, perfect for relaxation. There is a wide variety of set menus, including cold soba and tempura rice bowls. It's an ideal place to stop by during sightseeing. The tempura was especially delicious, with plenty of shrimp and vegetables to enjoy.

Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.
Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

After dinner, we decided to check out Ambar, a local bar known for its lively atmosphere and dart games. It was a fun way to unwind and mingle with the locals. The bar had a friendly vibe, and we enjoyed chatting with the other patrons while sipping on some local drinks. It was a great way to end the day, experiencing the local nightlife and soaking in the island's culture.

Experience the lively dart bar culture at Ambar in Yakushima, where fun, friendship, and refreshing drinks await every night.
Experience the lively dart bar culture at Ambar in Yakushima, where fun, friendship, and refreshing drinks await every night.

As I sit here reflecting on the day, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to explore this enchanting island. Yakushima has a way of captivating your senses and leaving you with a profound appreciation for the natural world. The ancient cedars, the vibrant gardens, and the delicious local cuisine have all contributed to an unforgettable experience. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventures, which will take us to the Shitoko Gajumaru Banyan Park and the Yakushima Fruit Garden - “Papaya no Sato”. I'm particularly excited to see the banyan trees, as they are known for their unique and impressive root systems. And of course, I can't wait to sample some of the local fruits at the fruit garden. Before we head there though, we'll have breakfast at Aqua Cafe, lunch at Kamogawa Restaurant, and dinner at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. I'm also planning to stop by YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB” to pick up some souvenirs for Emily and myself. It's hard to believe that tomorrow will be our last day on Yakushima. Time really does fly when you're having fun. But I know that the memories and experiences we've shared here will stay with us for a lifetime.



Yakushima has truly exceeded my expectations, and I highly recommend it to anyone seeking a unique and immersive travel experience. It's a place where you can connect with nature, learn about the local culture, and create memories that will last a lifetime. And who knows, maybe one day I'll return to this magical island and explore even more of its hidden treasures. Until then, I'll cherish the memories and experiences I've gained here, and continue to share them with the world through my blog.



As camping is not allowed in the national park, backpackers can find several small huts along the trails in the central mountains of the island that they can stay in free of charge. These huts vary in size and can accommodate anywhere from 20-60 people. However, they are little more than four concrete or wooden walls and a roof. The island of Yakushima was formed from the Hyuga Group, strata of seafloor sediment that piled up due to plate movement about 40 million years ago. Granite born from undersea volcanic activity in this group 15.5 million years ago rose to the surface due to tectonic deformation. In other words, Yakushima was once on the seafloor. Although some Japanese mountains were formed by magma from volcanic eruptions, the oddly shaped granite formations seen on Yakushima's mountaintops were pushed up and exposed by uplift. This species of dragonfly that emerges in spring is distinguished by the amber-colored patterns on its body and wings. It was once distributed throughout Japan but is currently designated as a critically endangered species. Yakushima is one of its few remaining habitats, and it can on rare occasions be spotted in lowland areas and wetlands. Yakushima's unique vegetation is the product of multiple specific landforms, meteorological conditions, and geographic conditions almost miraculously coinciding.
Go to day 9 Discovering Yakushima's Hidden Gems: A Day of Valley Views and Ancient Shrines
Go to day 11 A Farewell to Yakushima: Banyan Trees, Tropical Fruits, and Island Scents
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Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima with Friends

Join David and friends as they explore the mystical forests of Yakushima, Japan, for an unforgettable adventure filled with nature and camaraderie.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

David Smith
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Marine Biologist specializing in coastal ecosystems
  • Country icon Country: Canada
  • Age icon Age: 52

G'day, I'm David Smith! A marine biologist originally from the Australian countryside, now living in Halifax, Canada. I've spent my life exploring the wonders of our planet, both above and below the sea. Through my blog, I share my adventures, providing insights and tips for sustainable and culturally immersive travel. Whether it's hiking through Nova Scotia or diving in the Galapagos, I aim to inspire others to explore responsibly and connect with nature and history.

Interests:
  • Photography
  • History
  • Environmental Conservation
  • Sailing
  • Local Cuisine
More about David Smith

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Kigensugi Cedar

    Explore the iconic Kigensugi Cedar in Yakushima, a 1,000-year-old natural marvel surrounded by stunning hiking trails and rich biodiversity.

  • Botanic gardens

    Discover the breathtaking beauty of Yakushima's Botanic Gardens, a lush sanctuary of biodiversity and tranquility in Japan's natural wonderland.

  • hiyoriya

    Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.

  • Subarashi Indian Restaurant

    Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

  • Matsutake

    Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

  • Ambar

    Experience the lively dart bar culture at Ambar in Yakushima, where fun, friendship, and refreshing drinks await every night.

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