Exploring the Hidden Gems of Puglia with My Spouse

Echoes of the Past: Matera and Castel del Monte

Today was a day of delving deep into the heart of Puglia's history and architectural wonders. From the ancient cave dwellings of Matera to the imposing silhouette of Castel del Monte, every moment was a step back in time, offering glimpses into the lives and legacies of those who shaped this fascinating region. It’s days like these that remind me why Olivia and I love to travel – to connect with the past, appreciate the present, and ponder the future.


Explore Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site with captivating cave dwellings, rich culture, and stunning landscapes in southern Italy.

Our day began with an early start, fueled by anticipation and the promise of strong Italian coffee. We had breakfast at Angelo Sabatelli ristorante in Matera. The restaurant was amazing. I opted for the 'Classics' tasting menu, which was a selection of the most loved dishes. It was a culinary experience that set the perfect tone for the day. Olivia chose a la carte, enjoying the roasted aubergine. Angelo Sabatelli's attention to detail and innovative use of local ingredients truly impressed us.


Experience the pinnacle of Italian fine dining at Angelo Sabatelli Ristorante in Putignano, where culinary artistry meets local flavors.

With our appetites sated, we set out to explore Matera, a city unlike any other I’ve ever seen. As an urban planner, I was immediately captivated by the Sassi, the ancient cave dwellings that have been inhabited for millennia. Walking through the narrow, winding streets felt like stepping into a living museum, each stone whispering stories of the past. The way the city has evolved, adapting to the natural landscape, is a testament to human resilience and ingenuity.

The Sassi are divided into two main areas: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. Sasso Barisano is more renovated, with many of the caves converted into homes, shops, and restaurants. Sasso Caveoso, on the other hand, is largely unrestored, offering a more raw and authentic glimpse into the past. We wandered through both, marveling at the intricate network of caves, staircases, and hidden courtyards.

Matera is more than just a city; it's a living testament to human adaptation and the enduring spirit of community.

One of the highlights of our exploration was the Palombaro Lungo, an ancient underground cistern that once provided the city with its water supply. The sheer scale of the cistern is awe-inspiring, a testament to the engineering prowess of the past. Exploring its depths, I couldn't help but reflect on the importance of sustainable water management, a topic close to my heart as an urban planner.

We also visited several of Matera’s rock churches, each one a unique blend of history, art, and faith. These churches, carved directly into the rock, are adorned with ancient frescoes, depicting biblical scenes and the lives of saints. The artistry and devotion that went into creating these sacred spaces is truly humbling.

For lunch, we stopped at Specchia Sant'Oronzo. Though I had read it was in Polignano a Mare, we were pleasantly surprised to find it in Matera. The restaurant offered a delightful array of local dishes, and we savored the flavors of Puglia while enjoying the beautiful view. Olivia enjoyed a seafood dish, while I opted for a pasta dish with Senise peppers, adding a spicy kick to my meal.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at Specchia Sant'Oronzo, where fresh seafood meets Mediterranean culinary traditions in Polignano a Mare.

After lunch, we reluctantly bid farewell to Matera and set off for Castel del Monte, a medieval castle located about an hour's drive away. As we approached the castle, its imposing silhouette against the clear blue sky was a sight to behold.


Discover the stunning beauty and rich history of Castel del Monte, a UNESCO World Heritage site that showcases medieval architecture in the heart of Puglia.

Castel del Monte, built in the 13th century by Emperor Frederick II, is a marvel of medieval architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its unique octagonal shape, with eight towers at each corner, has fascinated historians and architects for centuries. The castle's design blends elements from classical antiquity, the Islamic world, and northern European Gothic traditions, reflecting the cosmopolitan vision of its founder.

Exploring Castel del Monte, I was struck by the precision and symbolism of its design. The octagon, a shape that represents the intermediate between the square (earth) and the circle (heaven), is repeated throughout the castle, creating a sense of harmony and balance. The interior, though now mostly bare, once housed luxurious furnishings and intricate decorations.

The purpose of Castel del Monte has long been debated. Some believe it was built as a hunting lodge, while others suggest it served as a strategic military fortress or a center for intellectual pursuits. Regardless of its original function, the castle stands as a testament to the vision and ambition of Frederick II, a ruler who was ahead of his time.

As the sun began to set, we climbed to the roof terrace of Castel del Monte, where we were treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. The golden light bathed the rolling hills and vineyards in a warm glow, creating a scene of unparalleled beauty. It was the perfect ending to a day filled with history, culture, and architectural wonders.

For dinner, we decided to try Locanda Di Nunno, a restaurant in Canosa di Puglia. The drive was a bit longer than we anticipated, but the experience was well worth it. Locanda Di Nunno is known for its traditional Puglian cuisine, and we indulged in a feast of local specialties. Olivia raved about the seafood dishes, while I savored the orecchiette pasta with cime di rapa, a classic Puglian dish. The restaurant had live music, which gave the whole evening a great vibe.


Discover authentic Italian cuisine and fresh seafood at Locanda Di Nunno in Canosa di Puglia, where every dish tells a story.

To cap off the evening, we stopped by Bobos Wine Bar in Putignano for a nightcap. The wine selection was impressive, and the staff was friendly and knowledgeable. We sipped on a glass of local Primitivo, reflecting on the incredible day we had experienced. It was the perfect way to end our exploration of Matera and Castel del Monte.


Discover the perfect blend of local wines and gourmet sandwiches at Bobos Wine Bar, a must-visit in the heart of Putignano, Italy.

Tomorrow marks our final day in Puglia, and we plan to make the most of it. Our itinerary includes visits to Farfalia - Casa delle farfalle (Butterfly House) and Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini. We'll also be dining at Mezza Pagnotta for breakfast, Tibbasta Ristorante for lunch, and Cucina Cefalicchio for our farewell dinner. Before heading to the airport, we hope to squeeze in some shopping at Puglia Village, picking up some souvenirs to remind us of our time in this beautiful region.

As I write this, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the wonders of Puglia. This trip has been a journey of discovery, both of the region's rich history and of our own connection to the world around us. I look forward to sharing more of our adventures with you soon.

Until then, ciao from Puglia!