Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

Homeward Bound, Hearts Full

As our ten-day pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the profound experiences we've shared as a family. It’s funny how a journey meant to explore ancient trails can lead you to discover so much about yourself and those you hold dear. Today was a day of tying up loose ends, both literally with our hiking boots and figuratively with our memories.

The day began, as many of our days on this trip have, with a hearty breakfast. We visited Sansaro Cafe, a charming spot known for its emphasis on natural, high-quality ingredients. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Aoife enjoyed a vegan option, which they happily provided. Liam, ever the adventurous eater, tried something new—some sort of local pastry that had him raving for the rest of the morning. It's these small, shared moments over local cuisine that I find myself cherishing the most. It's funny, isn't it? How food can be such a powerful connector, especially when you're exploring a new culture.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set out to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. The pass marks the border between Kuchi-Kumano and Oku-Kumano. The trails were, as always, stunning, winding through lush greenery with the promise of breathtaking views. Though the sun was out, the dense canopy provided a welcome respite from the heat, making the hike all the more enjoyable. The air was filled with the scent of cedar and damp earth, a fragrance I’ve come to associate with this beautiful region.


Discover breathtaking views and spiritual trails at Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass, a must-visit hiking destination in Wakayama, Japan.

It is not the destination that matters, but the journey itself.

As we walked, I couldn't help but think about how much this journey has mirrored life itself. There were challenging climbs that tested our endurance, gentle slopes that allowed for reflection, and unexpected turns that led to new discoveries. Just like in life, the path wasn't always easy, but it was always worth it.

Our next stop was the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. This impressive cobblestone staircase is part of the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. Lined with towering Japanese cedar and cypress trees, the Daimon-zaka is an excellent short walk. The path consists of 600 meters and 267 stairs. At the base of the slope, we marveled at the Meotosugi, the “husband and wife cedar trees,” whose roots are entwined beneath the path. Aoife was particularly taken by this spot, remarking on the symbolism of enduring love and partnership. I must admit, it gave me a warm feeling as well.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route: a UNESCO World Heritage site blending history, spirituality, and breathtaking landscapes.

Close to the base is the Daimonzaka Chaya, where you can rent Heian period kimonos. It's a great opportunity to take some memorable photos. I chuckled at the thought of Liam in a kimono, but he seemed surprisingly open to the idea. We decided against it in the end, but not before snapping a few pictures of other travelers dressed in the traditional attire.


Experience the elegance of traditional Japanese attire at Daimonzaka Chaya, the premier costume rental service in Wakayama for your cultural adventure.

For lunch, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a visitor center housed in a beautifully renovated house. This charming spot, which was converted from a 130-year-old house, sells local specialties and takeaway snacks. We tried our hand at making Mehari-zushi, a local delicacy from Kumano City. It’s a kind of rice ball wrapped in pickled mustard leaf. I must say, my attempt was rather clumsy, but Aoife and Liam seemed to have a knack for it. The taste was certainly unique, a bit strong for my liking, but Aoife enjoyed it. I opted for a set of Udon noodles. It was fascinating to learn about the local culinary traditions and to participate in the preparation of our meal. These are the moments that truly connect you to a place and its people.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

Our final stop of the day was at Daimonzaka Chaya, the tea house near the Meotosugi. We did a little shopping, picking up some local crafts and souvenirs for friends back home. Aoife found a beautiful hand-painted fan, while Liam settled on a small carving of a Shinto deity. I picked up a vintage map of the area, adding to my growing collection of historical cartography. As an antiques dealer, I can never resist a good map, especially one that tells a story of a place as rich in history as Kumano Kodo.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for a farewell dinner. This long-standing establishment is known for its Kumano beef. I opted for the Wagyu steak, while Aoife chose a seafood dish. Liam, predictably, went for the hamburger. The food was excellent, and the service was top-notch. It was a fitting end to our culinary journey through Japan.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Reflecting on our time here, I realize that this pilgrimage was more than just a physical journey; it was a spiritual and emotional one as well. We've walked in the footsteps of emperors and pilgrims, connected with nature, and learned about a culture that is both ancient and vibrant. I am so glad I got to share this experience with my family.

Tomorrow, we begin our journey back to Dublin, carrying with us memories that will last a lifetime. I’m sure Aoife is already planning our next adventure. Until then, I’ll cherish the moments we’ve had here, the lessons we’ve learned, and the bonds we’ve strengthened. The Kumano Kodo has left an indelible mark on our hearts, and I know we’ll be back someday to walk these sacred trails once more.

Sayonara, Kumano Kodo. Until we meet again.