Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

A Day of Reflection and Renewal

Today was a day of deep reflection and spiritual renewal along the Kumano Kodo. The ancient paths, the serene temples, and the soothing onsen all combined to create an experience that resonated with the soul. It's days like these that remind me why Aoife and I embarked on this journey in the first place – to find a deeper connection with ourselves and the world around us.

Our day began in Yunomine Onsen, a quaint village known for its therapeutic hot springs. Waking up to the gentle sounds of the morning, I felt a sense of anticipation for the day ahead. After a brief stop at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall for breakfast, we prepared to set out on the trail. The Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall is a charming destination serving traditional dishes. It also functions as a newsstand, providing access to local news and travel information.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of the surrounding forests. The June weather in Kumano Kodo is generally mild, with comfortable temperatures, but rain is also common. Today was no exception, as a light drizzle began to fall, adding a mystical quality to the landscape. I was grateful for my rain gear, a lesson learned from almost forgetting essentials back in Dublin. The weather in Kumano in June typically sees highs around 77°F (25°C) and lows around 67°F (19°C), with high humidity.

Our primary destination was the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, a path that has been walked by pilgrims for centuries. As we started our trek, I couldn't help but think about all the people who had traveled this same route, each with their own hopes, dreams, and burdens. It was a humbling experience to be part of such a long and storied tradition. Liam, ever the enthusiastic photographer, was busy capturing the stunning scenery, while Aoife and I took a more measured pace, soaking in the atmosphere.


Explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, a UNESCO World Heritage site, for a blend of breathtaking nature and rich cultural heritage in Wakayama, Japan.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

The trail wound through dense forests, alongside clear streams, and past ancient stone markers. Every step seemed to echo with the whispers of the past. We paused frequently to admire the views, to catch our breath, and to simply be present in the moment. The lush greenery was vibrant, and the air was filled with the sounds of birdsong and the rustling of leaves. It was a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of Dublin, and I felt a sense of peace wash over me.

Around midday, we stopped for lunch at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a delightful spot that offers local specialties and takeaway snacks. Housed in a beautifully renovated 130-year-old house, this visitor center exudes a traditional charm. We savored some delicious Mehari-zushi, a local delicacy from Kumano City, which is a rice ball wrapped in pickled mustard leaf. It was a simple yet satisfying meal, and it gave us a taste of the region's culinary heritage. The Omotenashi-Kan is known for making visitors feel as though they’ve stepped back into traditional Japan.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
After lunch, we continued our pilgrimage, making our way towards Fudarakusan-ji, a temple with a rich history and spiritual significance. As we approached the temple, I could feel a sense of reverence in the air. This temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. Fudarakusan-ji is known for its association with the Buddhist Pure Land, a concept that resonated deeply with the pilgrims who sought salvation in the Kumano region.


Experience serenity and spirituality at Fudarakusan-ji Temple, a hidden gem in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for cultural exploration and reflection.
Inside, we admired the serene atmosphere and the beautiful statues. The main deity enshrined here is Senju Kannon (Thousand Hand Bodhisattva). I lit a stick of incense and offered a silent prayer for peace and well-being for my family and for all those who walk this sacred path. The temple provided a quiet space for contemplation, and I spent some time reflecting on my life, my blessings, and my aspirations. It was a deeply moving experience, one that I will carry with me long after we leave Japan.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Takehara for dinner, a restaurant near Katsuura fishing port. This port is known for having the largest catch of fresh tuna in Japan. Takehara is a small restaurant with counter seating only, but is considered one of the best places to eat. I opted for the maguro set meal, Takehara's specialty, which features thick cuts of fresh, never-frozen tuna. The fresh tuna simply melted in my mouth.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.
To cap off the evening, we ventured to Wine Kumano, a unique establishment that specializes in natural wine, craft beer, and specialty coffee. It's a place where you can unwind and enjoy the local flavors. Aoife, Liam and I sampled some of the local wines and enjoyed the cozy atmosphere. It was the perfect way to relax and reflect on the day's experiences. The store also serves charcuterie and dishes made of local ingredients.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.
Looking ahead to tomorrow, our final day on the Kumano Kodo, we plan to explore the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass and the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. We’ll start with breakfast at Sansaro Cafe before continuing our journey. I am looking forward to these final explorations, knowing that they will bring even more insights and memories to cherish.

Today was more than just a hike; it was a journey of self-discovery and spiritual connection. The Kumano Kodo has a way of stripping away the superficial and revealing what truly matters. As we prepare to leave this sacred place, I am filled with gratitude for the experiences we have shared and the lessons we have learned. This pilgrimage has been a gift, one that I will treasure for the rest of my life.