Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

Echoes of the Past in Fes

Today was a day of diving deep into the heart of Fes, a city that seems to whisper stories from centuries past at every turn. From the spiritual echoes of the Kairaouine Mosque to the bustling energy of Place Rcif and the poignant history of the Mellah, Fes offered a rich tapestry of experiences that I'm eager to share.

My day began, as many do here, with breakfast at Zagora. It's become a bit of a ritual, this small cafe, with its strong coffee and the gentle murmur of morning conversations. It’s a comforting way to ease into the day, fueling up for whatever adventures lie ahead. The staff are always friendly and welcoming too [I noticed that Zagora is recommended by Restaurant Guru], which makes a difference when you are travelling solo.


Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Zagora in Fes - where culinary artistry meets Moroccan hospitality.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set out to explore the famed Kairaouine Mosque and University. I'd read so much about it before coming – how it was founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman of immense vision, and how it's considered one of the oldest universities in the world. Finding the Mosque and University Kairaouine in Fes was not difficult, and it is easy to see how the religious site has been the gathering point of the Muslim community for centuries. Although, as a non-Muslim, I couldn't enter the mosque itself, simply standing outside its ancient walls was a powerful experience. The architecture is stunning, a testament to the many dynasties that have contributed to its construction over the centuries. I could almost feel the weight of history, imagining the countless scholars who have passed through its gates, the debates that have shaped Islamic thought, and the sheer dedication to learning that has kept this institution alive for over a millennium.


Explore the Mosque and University of Kairaouine in Fes, a historic center of learning and stunning Islamic architecture that enchants every traveler.

The beauty of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in understanding the stories they hold.

From the Kairaouine, I ventured into Place Rcif, a bustling square that serves as a vibrant crossroads for the city. The square itself has an interesting history. It's a place where locals and tourists alike gather, where the sounds of vendors hawking their wares mingle with the laughter of children playing and the animated conversations of friends catching up. I found myself drawn to the energy of the place, the sheer sensory overload of colors, smells, and sounds. I spent a good hour simply wandering through the square, observing the daily life of Fassis, and soaking in the atmosphere. It’s fascinating to watch the ebb and flow of people, the transactions taking place, and the sense of community that permeates the air. It’s a place that feels both timeless and utterly present.


Discover the vibrant community spirit of Fes at Place Rcif, where culture, tradition, and local life converge in an unforgettable experience.

Lunch was at Restaurant Boujloud, a place recommended by my guesthouse owner for its traditional Moroccan cuisine and stunning rooftop views. He wasn’t wrong! The food was delicious – I opted for a tagine with chicken and olives, a classic dish that never fails to satisfy. But the real highlight was the view. From the rooftop terrace, I could see the entire medina spread out before me, a labyrinth of rooftops, minarets, and winding alleyways. It was the perfect spot to take a break, enjoy a leisurely meal, and simply marvel at the beauty of Fes.


Discover the flavors of Morocco at Restaurant Boujloud in Fes – where tradition meets modern cuisine in a cozy setting.

In the afternoon, I decided to explore the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Fes. This was perhaps the most poignant part of my day. The Mellah, established in the 15th century, tells a story of a once-thriving Jewish community that played a significant role in the city's history. Walking through its narrow streets, I could see the remnants of a rich cultural heritage – the distinctive architecture of the houses, the synagogues (some restored), and the quiet dignity of the neighborhood. It was a sobering reminder of the complexities of history, the ebb and flow of communities, and the importance of preserving cultural memory. The Mellah of Fes is considered to be the oldest quarter reserved for Moroccans of the Jewish faith, dating back to 1438.


Explore the historic Mellah of Fes, a vibrant Jewish quarter rich in culture, history, and unique shopping experiences, perfect for any traveler.

It's worth noting that the Mellah has been undergoing extensive renovations, reflecting a commitment to preserving Morocco's Jewish heritage. I found myself reflecting on the stories I'd read about the expulsion of Jews from Andalusia and their subsequent settlement in Fes. The Mellah stands as a testament to their resilience and their contribution to the city's cultural mosaic. In 1465, the Mellah was attacked by the Muslim population of Fes el-Bali during a revolt, resulting in thousands of Jewish inhabitants being killed.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Nur for dinner. Having read a number of reviews, I was intrigued by Nur's modern take on Moroccan cuisine. The chef, Najat Kaanache, is known for her innovative approach, blending traditional flavors with contemporary techniques. The restaurant itself is beautiful, a sleek and stylish space that feels worlds away from the bustling medina outside. I opted for the tasting menu, a culinary journey that took me through a range of flavors and textures. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and thoughtfully composed. It was an experience that engaged all the senses, a fitting end to a day of exploration and discovery.


Experience the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Nur in Fes - where tradition meets innovation in every delicious bite.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I decided to check out Felix Club Fes for a nightcap. While not usually one for nightclubs, I was curious about the local nightlife scene. The club was lively, with a mix of locals and tourists dancing to a blend of contemporary and traditional music. It was a fun and energetic atmosphere, a chance to let loose and simply enjoy the moment. I didn't stay long, but it was a pleasant way to cap off the evening.


Discover the pulsating nightlife of Fes at Felix Club, where music and dance unite for an unforgettable experience.

February in Fes is proving to be quite agreeable. The weather has been mild, with temperatures hovering around 17°C during the day and dipping to around 7°C at night. The cold January weather in Fes makes this the ideal time of year to enjoy a traditional hammam steam bath. While there has been some rain, it hasn't been enough to dampen my spirits. In fact, the occasional shower has only added to the atmosphere, creating a sense of coziness and intimacy. February tends to be a quieter month for tourism in Fes, especially when compared to the busy summer and autumn seasons.

As I walked back to my guesthouse through the quiet alleyways of the medina, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Fes is a city that gets under your skin, a place that challenges and inspires in equal measure. I'm looking forward to my final day here tomorrow, which will include visits to Place de Florence, Cherratine Medersa, and La Grande Terrasse.

Tomorrow marks my last day in Fes, and I plan to make the most of it. My itinerary includes a visit to Place de Florence, Cherratine Medersa, and La Grande Terrasse. I’m particularly excited about La Grande Terrasse, which promises panoramic views of the city. I hope to find some unique souvenirs at Art Fez before heading to the airport for my flight back to Dublin. It's been an incredible journey, one that I'll cherish for years to come. I'm already looking forward to my next adventure, wherever that may be.

Aoife will be glad to see me back in Dublin, and no doubt Liam will be looking for me to bring him back some interesting souvenirs. I think I'll be suggesting to Aoife that she joins me on my next trip. As much as I enjoy travelling solo, it's always great to have company.

“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” I've found this to be true, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings.

Until then, goodnight from Fes.