Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

Fes from Above and Below

Today in Fes was a journey through time and perspective, offering glimpses of its grandeur from both panoramic heights and the intimate spaces of forgotten palaces. It's days like these that remind me why I traded my Dublin armchair for a life on the road.

My day began, as most do, with a hearty breakfast. Restaurant Ouliya was the perfect spot, a family-run establishment where the warmth of the service rivaled the deliciousness of the Moroccan fare. I savored a traditional Moroccan soup, a medley of salads, and a chicken and lemon tagine that was simply divine. I even considered signing up for Ouliya's cooking class, but adventure called.

First on the itinerary were the Marinid Tombs. A taxi ride took me up the hill, and as I stepped out, the view was breathtaking. The tombs themselves, remnants of a 14th-century necropolis, stood as silent witnesses to centuries of Fassi history. Though time and quarrying have taken their toll, the remaining structures still whisper tales of the Marinid dynasty that ruled Morocco from the 13th to the 15th centuries. It was a clear day, and the panorama of Fes el-Bali spread before me was simply stunning. I could pick out the green tiles of the Al-Qarawiyyin University and the countless rooftops blending into a tapestry of urban life. The air was crisp, and the silence, save for the occasional breeze, was a welcome respite from the bustling medina below.


Explore the Marinid Tombs in Fes, a historical landmark showcasing intricate architecture and breathtaking views of the ancient city.

The beauty of a place is not just in its monuments, but in the stories it whispers to those who listen.

After soaking in the view and a bit of history at the Marinid Tombs, I ventured into the heart of the city to find the Andalusian Mosque. Founded in 859 AD, it stands as a testament to the Andalusian refugees who sought refuge in Fes. The mosque has seen numerous expansions and restorations over the centuries, blending various architectural styles from the Umayyads to the Almohads. The minaret, with its square base, reminded me of the close ties between Fes and Cordoba. I admired the monumental gateway, adorned with faience and wood, a testament to the cultural richness of the city.


Explore the Andalusian Mosque in Fes, a stunning example of Islamic architecture and a cultural cornerstone in Morocco's historical landscape.

Lunch was a quick affair at Chez Hakim. The harira soup was excellent, spiced just right, although I was perhaps less adventurous with the rest of my choices. The place had a certain charm, though, and the friendly service made up for what it lacked in ambiance.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Chez Hakim in Fès - a family-friendly restaurant serving delicious traditional cuisine.

The afternoon held a surprise: El Glaoui Palace. Tucked away in the maze-like streets of Fes el-Bali, this hidden gem offered a glimpse into the lives of the Glaoui family, key figures in Moroccan history. Once owned by Madani and Thami El Glaoui, it was seized from a former finance minister. The palace's story is intertwined with the Hafidiya civil war, where the Glaoui family supported Abd al-Hafid, ultimately leading to their rise in power. This palace was where their wealth began.


Experience the splendor of El Glaoui Palace in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing exquisite Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

It was quite a find, a bit off the beaten path, and all the more rewarding for it. The palace is a sprawling complex, with multiple houses, annexes, and even its own hammams and Quranic schools. I wandered through the courtyards, imagining the lavish lifestyle of the Glaoui family in the early 20th century. The zellij tiling, painted wood, and carved stucco showcased the best of Moroccan craftsmanship at the time. It was the first building in Morocco to have electricity and heating, quite a statement for its time.

The Glaoui family's story is a complex one. Their rise to power, their alliance with the French during the protectorate, and their eventual fall from grace after Morocco's independence make for a fascinating chapter in Moroccan history. Wandering through the palace, I couldn't help but reflect on the ephemeral nature of power and wealth.

Before dinner, I decided to indulge in some retail therapy at the Cooperative Artisanal de Fes. I wanted to find a special memento of my trip, and the cooperative offered a wide array of authentic Moroccan handmade goods. I spent a good hour browsing through carpets, pottery, leather goods, and jewelry, admiring the skill and artistry of the local artisans. I finally settled on a beautiful, hand-painted ceramic bowl, a piece that I knew would remind me of Fes long after I had left.


Explore handcrafted Moroccan treasures at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, where tradition meets creativity in a vibrant marketplace.

Dinner at Al Oud was a delightful end to the day. The restaurant was small and colorful, with tables spilling out onto the main street of the medina. The food was excellent, a mix of traditional Moroccan dishes with a modern twist. The lamb tagine was particularly memorable, tender and flavorful, and the service was attentive without being intrusive.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Al Oud in Fes El Bali—where tradition meets taste in a charming setting.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, the sounds of the medina lulled me into a peaceful state. The call to prayer echoed from the mosques, and the scent of spices filled the air. I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day, the panoramic views, the hidden palaces, and the warm hospitality of the Fassi people.

Tomorrow, I am planning a day trip to Volubilis and Palais Mnebhi, hoping to uncover even more of Morocco's rich history. And perhaps a relaxing evening at Zen Garden is on the cards, to unwind after a day of exploring. For now, though, it's time to rest and recharge for another day of adventure in this captivating city.

I'm starting to feel quite at home here, a long way from my antiques shop in Dublin. Perhaps I'll pick up a few Moroccan pieces to add to my collection... Aoife would certainly approve, I think. Though I still haven't found that Arabic phrasebook I meant to pack. Oh well, there's always tomorrow. Maybe I can find one at the Fez Bazar on my way to Palais Mnebhi. I am looking forward to that. I am also in need of a quiet pint, so maybe I should go to Zen Garden after all.

It's amazing how easily one can get lost in the beauty and history of this place. I am so glad I decided to come here on my own. It gave me time to reflect, something I don't often get when I am at home. I think this is something I will be doing more often. Morocco has been wonderful so far, and I can't wait to see what else it has in store for me.