Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

A Day Immersed in Fassi History

Today was a sensory explosion, a deep dive into the heart of Fes. I wandered through time, witnessing craftsmanship that has survived centuries and experiencing the vibrant pulse of this ancient city. It was a day of discovery, where every corner held a story and every scent evoked a memory of a bygone era.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Nagham Cafe. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast, a delightful spread of breads, olives, and honey, accompanied by strong, sweet mint tea. The cafe itself was buzzing with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day in this captivating city. The February air was crisp, with a promise of sunshine, making it a perfect morning to explore. It's funny, even though I'm here solo, I never feel alone. There's a certain energy in Fes, a sense of community that draws you in.

Fueled and ready, I made my way to the Al Attarine Madrasa, a jewel of Marinid architecture. The intricate details of the courtyard were breathtaking. The carved stucco, the vibrant zellij tilework, and the cedarwood ceilings all spoke of a dedication to craftsmanship that is rarely seen today. The Madrasa, once a theological college, now stands as a testament to the intellectual and artistic achievements of its time. Wandering through the small student rooms on the upper floor, I imagined the scholars who once lived and studied here, dedicating their lives to learning and contemplation. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the rich intellectual history of this city.


Explore the enchanting Al Attarine Madrasa, a historical landmark in Fes showcasing intricate Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

Fes is not just a city; it's a living, breathing museum, where the past is not just remembered but actively lived and celebrated.

From the serenity of the Madrasa, I ventured into the heart of the Medina, towards the infamous Chouara Tannery. The air grew thick with a pungent aroma, a mixture of dyes, animal hides, and… well, let's just say it's an acquired scent. I was offered a sprig of mint, which I gratefully accepted, holding it under my nose as I approached the viewing platforms. What unfolded before me was a scene straight out of the Middle Ages. Men, knee-deep in stone vats filled with colorful dyes, were working the hides using techniques that have remained unchanged for centuries. The process is arduous, involving everything from soaking the hides in pigeon droppings and cow urine (to soften them) to dyeing them with natural pigments derived from saffron, indigo, and henna. The sight was both fascinating and overwhelming, a raw and unfiltered glimpse into a traditional craft that continues to thrive in the modern world. I couldn't help but feel a sense of respect for these artisans, who work tirelessly to produce the high-quality leather goods that Fes is famous for.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

For lunch, I decided to try Restaurant MB, located in Ville Nouvelle. It was a welcome escape from the bustling Medina, offering a modern and stylish ambiance. The menu was a fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine, and I opted for the traditional pigeon pastilla, a sweet and savory pie that was absolutely divine. It was a delightful contrast to the rustic experiences of the morning, a reminder that Fes is a city of many layers, where tradition and modernity coexist in harmony.


Experience French culinary excellence at Restaurant MB in Fes—where sophistication meets flavor in a stunning lounge atmosphere.

After lunch, I ventured back into the Medina, determined to find the Dar al-Magana, the famed water clock. Locating it proved to be a bit of a challenge, as the Medina is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and hidden courtyards. Eventually, with the help of a friendly local, I found myself standing before the ancient clock, located opposite the Bou Inania Madrasa. Built in the 14th century, the Dar al-Magana is a testament to the ingenuity of medieval Moroccan engineering. Though the clock is no longer functioning, its intricate design and historical significance were captivating. I learned that it was once used to regulate the city's water supply and to announce prayer times, a vital part of daily life in Fes. It's a shame that it's not working, but even in its stillness, it's a powerful reminder of the intellectual achievements of the past. I remember reading about similar water clocks built in Damascus, it's fascinating how these technologies spread across the Islamic world.


Explore the historical wonder of Dar al-Magana in Fes, a mesmerizing water clock that encapsulates Morocco's rich architectural heritage and ingenuity.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the city, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Les Mystères de Dar Tajine. The restaurant, tucked away in the old Medina, offered a charming atmosphere and a menu filled with traditional Moroccan dishes. I opted for the tagine with lamb and apricots, a flavorful and aromatic dish that was the perfect end to a day of exploration. The service was impeccable, and the ambiance was warm and inviting, making me feel like a welcomed guest in a private home.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine in Fes at Les Mystères de Dar Tajine, where tradition meets flavor in every dish.

To cap off the evening, I sought out Mezzanine, a bar known for its lively atmosphere and panoramic views. It's always interesting to see how the younger generation interprets tradition. While I enjoy a good glass of Irish whiskey, I decided to try a local Moroccan beer. The bar was buzzing with locals and tourists, all enjoying the cool evening air and the stunning views of the city. It was a perfect way to reflect on the day's adventures and to soak in the vibrant energy of Fes. I overheard some travelers discussing their plans for visiting the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II tomorrow, which is also on my list. Perhaps I'll see them there.


Experience the vibrant rooftop lounge in Fes, where stunning views meet delectable cuisine, creating the perfect escape for tourists.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the Aben Danan Synagogue, and the Jnan Sbil gardens. I'm also hoping to find some unique treasures at Fes Antiques. I'm sure it will be another day filled with unforgettable experiences.

Today, I walked through history, touched the past, and tasted the present. Fes has a way of getting under your skin, of captivating your senses and stirring your soul. It's a city that I will never forget, a place that will forever hold a special place in my heart. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel, why I love to explore, and why I love to share my experiences with the world.

February in Fes is proving to be quite pleasant. The temperature has been mild, with highs in the mid-60s during the day and cooler evenings. There's been a slight breeze, but nothing too uncomfortable. I packed layers, as recommended, and I've been perfectly comfortable. A light jacket is essential for the evenings, but during the day, a sweater or long-sleeved shirt is sufficient.

As I settle into my riad for the night, I can't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. Fes has exceeded all of my expectations, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. I must remember to buy that Arabic phrasebook I forgot! I feel like I'm missing out on some deeper connections with the locals by not knowing more of the language.

I'm eager to continue exploring, to uncover more of the city's secrets, and to share my discoveries with all of you. Stay tuned for more tales from Fes!