Exploring the Cultural Heart of Morocco: A Solo Journey to Fes

Fez's Tapestry of Time and Tradition

Today was a journey through time, a sensory explosion, and a deep dive into the soul of Fes. It was a day of contrasts, from the solemn silence of ancient tombs to the vibrant chaos of bustling souks, all wrapped in the warm embrace of Moroccan hospitality. It reminded me why I set out on this solo adventure in the first place: to truly connect with a place, to feel its pulse, and to share that experience with you.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurant Darna Fes. The traditional Moroccan pancakes, msemen, were the perfect fuel for the day ahead. The cozy atmosphere and the friendly staff made me feel right at home, a sentiment I've come to cherish during my time here. I even managed to practice a bit of my Darija with the waiter, a small victory that always brings a smile to my face.

First on the itinerary was the Merinide Necropole. The taxi ride up the hill offered a teasing glimpse of the sprawling city below. Arriving at the necropolis, I was immediately struck by the stark beauty of the ruins against the clear blue sky. These tombs, remnants of the Marinid dynasty that ruled Morocco centuries ago, stand as silent witnesses to the ebb and flow of history. Though time has weathered the structures, their presence is still powerful, evoking a sense of reverence and contemplation. I wandered among the crumbling walls, imagining the lives of those who lay here, the sultans and dignitaries who once shaped the destiny of Fes.


Explore the Merinide Necropole in Fes, a serene historical site that offers a glimpse into Morocco's rich past and stunning city views.

The panoramic view from the necropolis was simply breathtaking. The entire city unfolded beneath me, a tapestry of rooftops, minarets, and winding alleyways. I could see the faint outline of the Atlas Mountains in the distance, their snow-capped peaks shimmering in the sunlight. It was a moment of profound peace, a chance to reflect on the vastness of time and the enduring spirit of this ancient city.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quietest of places.

Leaving the necropolis, I plunged back into the vibrant heart of Fes, heading towards the Henna Souk and pottery. The transition was jarring but exhilarating, like stepping from one world into another. The souk was a kaleidoscope of colors, scents, and sounds, a sensory overload that both overwhelmed and delighted me. The air was thick with the aroma of spices, perfumes, and freshly ground henna. Stalls overflowed with pottery, cosmetics, and traditional remedies, each vying for attention.


Discover the enchanting Henna Souk and Pottery Market in Fes, a vibrant hub of Moroccan culture and craftsmanship, perfect for unique souvenirs.

The Henna Souk, also known as Place Seffarine, is one of the oldest marketplaces in the medina. It is filled with stalls selling pottery and traditional cosmetics, including henna. The souk is dominated by a graceful plane tree amid stalls, which provides shade and a focal point for the square. It is a place where Moroccans routinely use natural products. I watched as women bargained for henna to adorn their hands and feet, a tradition passed down through generations. I even considered getting a small henna tattoo myself, but decided against it, not wanting to risk an allergic reaction before the end of my trip.

I spent a good hour wandering through the souk, soaking up the atmosphere and haggling for souvenirs. I bought a small tagine pot, a colorful ceramic bowl, and a packet of saffron, all at prices I was quite proud of negotiating. The stallholders were friendly and engaging, always ready with a smile and a story. I even learned a few new Arabic phrases, much to their amusement and my own satisfaction.

For lunch, I treated myself to a meal at Eden at Palais Amani. The restaurant is nestled within the walls of the opulent Palais Amani, and it offers a dining experience that reflects the rich culinary heritage of the region. I chose to dine in the serene courtyard, surrounded by lush greenery and the soothing sound of a fountain. The setting was idyllic, a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the medina.


Experience the exquisite fusion of Moroccan and French cuisine in a historic palace setting at Eden at Palais Amani.

I opted for the tasting menu, a culinary journey through the flavors of Morocco. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. From the delicate fish soup to the succulent lamb tagine, every bite was a delight. The service was impeccable, the staff attentive and knowledgeable, eager to share their passion for Moroccan cuisine. I savored every moment, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such culinary excellence.

After lunch, I continued my exploration of Fes, making my way to the Palais Mnebhi. This early 20th-century palace is a masterpiece of Moroccan architecture, a testament to the opulence and grandeur of a bygone era. It is notable as the place where the 1912 Treaty of Fes was officially signed. The palace is located on Tala'a Seghira street, one of the main souq streets of the city.


Explore Palais Mnebhi, a historical landmark in Fes, where Moroccan heritage meets exquisite architecture and traditional cuisine.

I wandered through the palace's vast halls and courtyards, marveling at the intricate details of the zellij mosaics, the carved stucco, and the ornate woodwork. The palace was like a time capsule, transporting me back to the days of sultans and viziers. I could almost hear the echoes of their voices, the rustle of their robes, the clinking of their teacups.

My final stop of the day was Medin Art, a shop recommended to me by Francisca before I left Lisbon. Created by Frenchwoman Laurence Alberro, Médin'Art was the first concept store to open in the medina of Fez. It offers visitors a warm welcome and information about the designers Laurence has adopted. I was looking for a special gift for Francisca and Nilton, and I found it here. I purchased a beautiful hand-painted bowl for Francisca and a small leather notebook for Nilton, hoping they would appreciate the thoughtfulness behind the gifts.


Discover authentic Moroccan handicrafts at Medin Art in Fes, where tradition meets creativity in a beautiful collection of unique treasures.

For dinner, I decided to try Zagora, a restaurant in Ville Nouvelle specializing in haute French cuisine. It was a bit of a departure from the traditional Moroccan fare I had been enjoying, but I was curious to experience a different side of Fes. The restaurant was elegant and refined, with a sophisticated atmosphere that felt worlds away from the medina. The food was exquisite, the service impeccable, and the overall experience was one of pure indulgence. It was a perfect way to end a day of exploring the cultural heart of Morocco.


Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Zagora in Fes - where culinary artistry meets Moroccan hospitality.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, the sounds of the city began to fade, replaced by the gentle murmur of my own thoughts. Today had been a whirlwind of experiences, a tapestry of sights, sounds, and sensations. I had walked in the footsteps of sultans, bargained with merchants, savored exquisite cuisine, and discovered hidden treasures. I felt a deep sense of connection to Fes, a sense of belonging that transcended language and culture.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Viewpoint Medina, Bab Boujloud, and the Marinid Tombs, eager to uncover more of Fes's secrets. I might even treat myself to a drink at Rooftop Nour Plazza, if I'm feeling adventurous. But for now, I'm content to drift off to sleep, dreaming of the ancient city and the adventures that await me.

I am reminded of a quote I once read by Ibn Battuta, the famous Moroccan traveler: "Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller." And so, my friends, I continue to travel, to explore, and to share my stories with you, hoping to inspire you to embark on your own adventures, to discover the beauty and wonder that lies hidden in every corner of our world.

Until tomorrow,
Domingos