Exploring the Cultural Heart of Morocco: A Solo Journey to Fes

Fez Unveiled: A Journey Through Time and Tradition

Today in Fes was a sensory overload in the best possible way. It was a day of diving deep into the city's history, art, and spiritual heart. From the pungent smells of the tanneries to the serene beauty of a sacred mausoleum, Fes offered a kaleidoscope of experiences that I know will stay with me long after I've left its ancient gates.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Le Tarbouche. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast, complete with mint tea, olives, and freshly baked bread. It was the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. The cafe was already buzzing with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day in this vibrant city. It reminded me of the bustling cafes in Lisbon, where the day starts with strong coffee and lively conversation. It's funny how you find echoes of home even in the most foreign places.

Aromatic Awakening at Chouara Tannery

Next on the agenda was the infamous Chouara Tannery. I had read so much about it, seen countless photos, but nothing could have prepared me for the reality. As I approached the area, the distinctive aroma – a potent mix of dyes, animal hides, and, let's just say, *natural* ingredients – filled the air. I was immediately offered a sprig of mint, which I gratefully accepted. It was a small gesture of hospitality that made a world of difference.

The tannery itself is a mesmerizing chaos of colors and activity. Men waist-deep in stone vats, working with techniques that have remained unchanged for centuries. The dyes, derived from natural sources like indigo, saffron, and poppy, create a stunning visual tapestry. It was truly a step back in time, a visceral experience that connected me to the ancient traditions of this city. I was reminded of a quote I once heard from a Berber nomad:

The past is not dead. It is living in us, and will be alive in the future which we create.

It's true, history isn't just something you read about in books; it's something you feel, smell, and see all around you in places like Chouara Tannery. The laboriousness of the process was astounding. I watched as men, their faces weathered by the sun and their hands stained with dye, worked tirelessly to transform raw hides into supple leather. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the dedication and skill that goes into creating the goods we often take for granted.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

After navigating through the maze of shops surrounding the tannery, I couldn't resist purchasing a beautiful leather bag. It's more than just a souvenir; it's a tangible connection to the history and craftsmanship of Fes. I made sure to haggle respectfully, remembering the lessons I've learned in markets from Cabo Verde to Lisbon – it's all part of the experience.

Artistic Immersion at the Dar Batha Museum

Seeking respite from the intensity of the tannery, I made my way to the Dar Batha Museum. Housed in a former palace, the museum offered a tranquil escape into the world of Moroccan art and craftsmanship. The building itself is a masterpiece of Hispano-Moorish architecture, with intricate tilework, carved wooden ceilings, and a serene Andalusian garden. I wandered through the halls, admiring the collections of ceramics, textiles, and woodwork. Each piece told a story, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Fes and its surrounding regions.


Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture of Morocco at Dar Batha Museum, Fes, where history and art converge.

I was particularly drawn to the exhibit of Fassi pottery, renowned for its distinctive cobalt blue glaze. The intricate patterns and delicate floral motifs were a testament to the skill of the Fes craftsmen. I also spent a considerable amount of time in the textile exhibit, marveling at the intricate embroidery and vibrant colors of the traditional garments and carpets. Francisca, my wife, would have loved to see the detailed needlework. I know she would have appreciated the craftsmanship and the stories woven into each piece. Perhaps one day I can bring her here to experience it for herself.

The museum also houses a fascinating collection of astrolabes, ancient astronomical instruments used by astronomers and navigators. As someone who enjoys genealogy, I found these tools particularly intriguing, imagining the scholars and explorers who used them to chart the stars and navigate the world. It was a reminder of the intellectual curiosity and scientific innovation that has flourished in this region for centuries.

Spiritual Reflection at the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II

My final stop of the day was the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the founder of Fes and one of Morocco's most revered saints. Located in the heart of the medina, the mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage and spiritual reflection. As a non-Muslim, I was not allowed to enter the inner sanctuary, but I was able to observe the exterior and soak in the atmosphere of reverence and devotion.


Experience the sacred beauty of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II in Fes, a historic site that embodies Moroccan spirituality and artistry.

The mausoleum is a beautiful example of Islamic architecture, with its green-tiled roof, intricate mosaics, and ornate stucco work. The area surrounding the mausoleum is known as the 'Sacred District', and it exudes a sense of peace and tranquility. I watched as pilgrims from all over Morocco came to pay their respects, seeking blessings and guidance from the saint. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of faith and spirituality in Moroccan culture.

The story of Moulay Idriss II is fascinating. He was responsible for moving the capital of his state to Fes and transforming it into a major cultural and intellectual center. He's considered the patron saint of the city, and his tomb is one of the holiest shrines in Morocco. I felt a sense of connection to the history and spirituality of this place, a feeling that transcended religious boundaries.

After a day of exploring, I was ready for a good meal. I decided to try Nur for dinner. The restaurant offers a modern take on Moroccan cuisine. Chef Najat Kaanache presents a tasting menu with a focus on seasonal ingredients and innovative flavor combinations. It was a culinary experience that was both delicious and thought-provoking. I savored each dish, appreciating the artistry and creativity of the chef. The meal was a perfect ending to a day filled with sensory delights.


Experience the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Nur in Fes - where tradition meets innovation in every delicious bite.

Finally, I ended my day at Mezzanine, a rooftop bar with a relaxed atmosphere and panoramic views of the city. It was the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. As I sipped my drink and watched the city lights twinkle below, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this incredible place. The bar was modern, a stark contrast to the traditional feel of the Medina, but it was a welcome respite after a long day of exploring. It reminded me of some of the trendy bars in Lisbon, where you can enjoy a drink with a view of the city.


Experience the vibrant rooftop lounge in Fes, where stunning views meet delectable cuisine, creating the perfect escape for tourists.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Jnan Sbil, Al Attarine Madrasa, and the Mellah. I'm excited to continue my exploration of Fes and discover more of its hidden gems. I'm also looking forward to doing some shopping at Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques. I think Francisca would appreciate a beautiful Moroccan carpet for our home in Lisbon.

Fes is a city that awakens the senses and nourishes the soul. It's a place where history, art, and spirituality intertwine, creating an experience that is both profound and unforgettable. I encourage anyone who has the opportunity to visit this incredible city to do so. You won't be disappointed.

Today truly felt like a step back in time, and it reminded me of something my grandfather used to say back in Cabo Verde:

Travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer.

And how right he was. Fes is enriching my life with every step I take through its ancient streets. Goodnight from Fes!