Exploring the Cultural Heart of Morocco: A Solo Journey to Fes

Stepping Back in Time: My Arrival in Fes

After a smooth flight from Lisbon, I finally arrived in Fes, Morocco, ready to immerse myself in its ancient culture and vibrant atmosphere. As a tour guide with a passion for history, I've always been drawn to cities that whisper tales of the past. Fes, with its UNESCO-listed medina, promised to be a captivating chapter in my travelogue. This solo journey is not just a break from my familiar Lisbon routes but a deep dive into a world where time seems to slow down, allowing for a more profound connection with history and tradition. I'm eager to share every moment of this adventure with you, my readers.

The air in Fes was crisp, carrying a hint of spices and the distant call to prayer as I stepped out of the airport. February in Fes offers a mild climate, perfect for exploring the city's labyrinthine streets. I quickly hailed a taxi, and we navigated towards Fes El Bali, the old city, a place I had only dreamed of until now. It felt surreal to finally be here, ready to lose myself in its captivating embrace.

A Morning in Fes El Bali

My first stop was, of course, the legendary Fes El Bali itself.
Founded in the 9th century, it's a place where you can feel the weight of centuries with every step. The sheer density of history is staggering; it's easy to see why UNESCO has recognized it as a World Heritage Site. Just wandering through its maze-like alleyways was an experience in itself. The sounds, the smells, the vibrant colors – it was a feast for the senses. I made a mental note to buy a portable phone charger, realizing I had forgotten it – I would need it to keep my phone alive while navigating the Medina!


Explore the historic Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with ancient architecture, vibrant souks, and rich Moroccan culture.

I found myself pausing frequently, captivated by the intricate details of the architecture. The craftsmanship was simply breathtaking, a testament to the skills passed down through generations. I could almost hear the echoes of the scholars, artisans, and merchants who had walked these same paths centuries ago. As I let myself drift through the Medina, I realized that Francisca would have loved getting lost in the small shops, looking for unique fabrics for her creations.

To walk through Fes El Bali is to journey through a living museum, where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered.

Spiritual and Architectural Marvel: Bou Inania Madrasa

Next on my list was the Bou Inania Madrasa.
This 14th-century theological college is an outstanding example of Marinid architecture. I was particularly struck by the detailed tilework and the cedarwood carvings. The Madrasa was commissioned by Sultan Abu Inan Faris, and what sets it apart from other Madrasas is that it also functioned as a mosque, including a minaret where they could host Friday prayers. As I wandered through the courtyard, I couldn't help but reflect on the generations of students who had studied within these walls, seeking knowledge and enlightenment. It reminded me of the importance of preserving such historical sites, so future generations can also appreciate the rich cultural heritage they represent. I spent a long time admiring the craftsmanship and the peaceful atmosphere, a welcome contrast to the bustling streets outside.


Explore the architectural beauty and cultural significance of Bou Inania Madrasa, an essential stop in the historic city of Fes, Morocco.

The Art of Wood: Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts

Seeking refuge from the midday sun, I ventured towards the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts.
Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century fondouk (a traditional caravanserai or inn), the museum celebrates Morocco's rich woodworking heritage. As someone who appreciates craftsmanship, I was immediately drawn to the intricate carvings and the sheer variety of wooden artifacts on display. From ancient tools to ornate musical instruments, each piece told a story of skill, creativity, and cultural significance.


Discover the rich heritage of Moroccan craftsmanship at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts in historic Fes.

The museum provided a fascinating insight into the role of wood in Moroccan architecture and daily life. I was particularly impressed by the exhibits showcasing cedarwood carvings, which are characteristic of Moroccan design. I learned that the building itself was commissioned by Sultan Ismail Ibn Sharif in the seventeenth century, and has been categorized as a historical monument since 1916. As I explored the museum, I imagined Nilton's eyes widening at the sight of the ornate musical instruments, perhaps inspiring him to pick up an instrument himself one day.

A Culinary Journey Begins: Breakfast at Cafe Clock

After a morning of exploration, my stomach started to rumble, leading me to Cafe Clock for breakfast.
This iconic Fes restaurant is known for its fusion dishes and vibrant atmosphere. I decided to try their take on traditional Moroccan breakfast fare, and I wasn't disappointed. The food was delicious, and the ambiance was warm and inviting. It was the perfect place to relax and soak in the energy of the city. I was able to try the Berber eggs, with tomatoes, jben and herbs, along with a traditional Moroccan mint tea. As I sat there, sipping my tea and watching the world go by, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this opportunity to experience Fes.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

Cafe Clock offers cooking and calligraphy classes, as well as music and storytelling evenings. The building rambles over several floors, and the fusion dishes seem to please locals and travelers alike. They are open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch. I made a mental note to return for one of their cultural events later in the week.

Lunch at Restaurant Dar Hatim: A Taste of Home

For lunch, I wanted a truly authentic experience, so I chose Restaurant Dar Hatim.
This family-run restaurant is located in a traditional Fassi home, offering a glimpse into local life. The owner, Fouad, even came to pick me up and escort me to the restaurant. The meal was a set menu, featuring a selection of Moroccan salads, freshly baked bread, and a choice of main dishes. I opted for the lamb tagine, which was cooked to perfection, the meat tender and flavorful. As I savored each bite, I felt like I was dining with family.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

What sets Dar Hatim apart is the warm hospitality of the owners. They treat every guest like a member of their family, creating a welcoming and intimate atmosphere. It was an experience that touched my heart, reminding me of the importance of human connection in our travels. I learned that Dar Hatim is named after the owners' son, and it has been transformed from their sitting room and courtyard into an intimate restaurant where they deliver a gastronomical experience rich with family recipes.

Shopping at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes

In the afternoon, I decided to indulge in some retail therapy at the Cooperative Artisanal de Fes.
This cooperative showcases the work of local artisans, offering a wide range of traditional Moroccan crafts. From ceramics to textiles to leather goods, there was something to tempt every shopper. I spent hours browsing the stalls, admiring the intricate details of each piece. I was particularly drawn to the pottery, with its distinctive blue and white designs. I ended up purchasing a small tagine as a souvenir for Francisca, knowing she would appreciate the craftsmanship and the vibrant colors.


Explore handcrafted Moroccan treasures at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, where tradition meets creativity in a vibrant marketplace.

While at the Cooperative, I spoke with several artisans, learning about their techniques and their passion for their craft. It was inspiring to see how they were keeping traditional skills alive, passing them down from one generation to the next. The Cooperative also produces high-quality brass and silverware. I learned that Fes is internationally known for its leather goods, most of which originate at the Chouara Tannery.

Dinner at The Ruined Garden: A Magical Setting

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to The Ruined Garden for dinner.
This unique restaurant is set in the atmospheric ruins of a courtyard house, creating a magical and enchanting setting. The menu features modern Moroccan dishes, using fresh, local ingredients. I opted for the chicken pastilla, a savory pie filled with shredded chicken, almonds, and spices. The flavors were complex and satisfying, a perfect ending to a day of culinary exploration.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting garden setting at The Ruined Garden in Fes.

The Ruined Garden is more than just a restaurant; it's an experience. The combination of the stunning setting, the delicious food, and the attentive service made it a truly memorable evening. The Ruined Garden was once cleared by five donkeys over five months, and under the rubbish they found mosaic floors and fountains. The climate of Fes is perfect for oranges and lemons, as well as jasmine and roses, which scent the evening air. As I sat there, enjoying my meal under the stars, I felt a sense of peace and contentment wash over me.

Final Thoughts on Day One

My first day in Fes was nothing short of magical. From the labyrinthine streets of Fes El Bali to the architectural marvel of Bou Inania Madrasa to the culinary delights of Cafe Clock, Restaurant Dar Hatim, and The Ruined Garden, every moment was filled with wonder and discovery. I feel like I've only scratched the surface of this incredible city, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings. I plan to visit the Chouara Tannery, the Dar Batha Museum and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. I am also looking forward to dinner at Nur!

Fes has already captivated my heart, and I can't wait to share more of its stories with you. Stay tuned for more updates from my solo journey through the cultural heart of Morocco!

This city is truly a sensory symphony, and I'm eager to explore its every note in the days to come.