Exploring the Rich History of Crete with Family

Rethymnon's Embrace: A Day of History, Gardens, and Gastronomic Delights

Today, as I reflect on our eighth day in Crete, my heart is full of the warmth and vibrancy of Rethymnon. This city, with its Venetian heritage and Cretan soul, offered us a tapestry of experiences that I'm eager to share. From the imposing Fortezza of Rethymnon to the tranquil Municipal Garden and the delightful local cuisine, Rethymnon has truly captured a piece of my heart.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Herbs' Garden. The name itself was enticing, promising a fresh start to our explorations. And it delivered! The restaurant was lovely [although some reviews mentioned it being in Heraklion, but I believe this location is in Rethymnon], and the food was excellent. Hans-Peter particularly enjoyed the local cheeses, while Sophia was thrilled with the fresh fruit selection. For me, it was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of historical exploration.

With our appetites satisfied, we set off to explore the Fortezza of Rethymnon. This Venetian fortress, a colossal structure perched atop Paleokastro hill, immediately transported me back in time. As a librarian specializing in ancient Greek history, I've read countless accounts of sieges and fortifications, but standing within the Fortezza's walls offered a tangible connection to the past. The panoramic views of Rethymnon and the sea were breathtaking, even on this winter day. The wind carried whispers of Venetian soldiers and Ottoman conquerors, each leaving their mark on this strategic stronghold.


Explore the Fortezza of Rethymnon, a historic Venetian fortress offering stunning views and rich cultural experiences in the heart of Crete.

The stones of the Fortezza whispered tales of Venetian ambition, Ottoman conquest, and the enduring spirit of Crete.

The Fortezza, built in the 16th century by the Venetians, stands as a testament to their maritime power and strategic foresight. I learned that it was constructed between 1573 and 1580, a period when the Venetians sought to protect Rethymno from Turkish pirates. The fortress was built on a hill called Paleokastro, which means Old Castle in Greek, suggesting that there was an older structure in that place. The history of the Fortezza is palpable, with each stone telling a story of Venetian ambition, Ottoman conquest, and the enduring spirit of Crete. The structure itself is massive, with walls stretching over a kilometer in length and encompassing four bastions. As we walked through the main gate, I couldn't help but imagine the bustling life that once filled this citadel. Inside, we explored the Ibrahim Han Mosque, a testament to the Ottoman influence, and the Church of Agios Theodoros Trichinas, a small Orthodox chapel. The fortress had been captured by the Ottomans in 1646, during the Fifth Ottoman–Venetian War, when the city's population sought refuge within its walls. The conditions deteriorated due to disease and lack of supplies, leading to the Venetian surrender. The Ottomans made few changes, except for adding a ravelin outside the main gate. I tried to imagine what it must have been like during the siege, the fear and uncertainty, but also the resilience of the people who sought shelter here.

Sophia was fascinated by the cannons that still stand guard, remnants of a bygone era. Hans-Peter, with his engineering mind, was intrigued by the architecture and the defensive strategies employed in its design. As we wandered through the ruins, I couldn't help but reflect on the layers of history that this fortress embodies. From its Venetian origins to its Ottoman conquest and subsequent role in Cretan history, the Fortezza stands as a silent witness to the passage of time.

Leaving the Fortezza, we sought a change of pace at the Rethymnon Municipal Garden. This green oasis, nestled between the old and new towns, offered a welcome respite from the historical intensity of the fortress. The garden, filled with orange trees, pines, and palm trees, provided a tranquil setting for a leisurely stroll. The air was fragrant with the scent of citrus and pine, creating a refreshing sensory experience. Despite it being January, the garden was vibrant with life, and we enjoyed watching the local children playing and families relaxing amidst the greenery.


Discover the tranquility of Rethymnon Municipal Garden, a lush haven in Crete perfect for relaxation, picnics, and enjoying nature's beauty.

I was particularly drawn to the garden's diverse collection of mature trees and plants. As we walked along the paths, I identified various species, some native to Crete and others brought from distant lands. The garden is also known to be dog-friendly, which added to its welcoming atmosphere. We sat by the fountain, listening to the gentle murmur of the water, and watched as birds flitted among the branches. It was a moment of simple pleasure, a chance to connect with nature and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. The garden is conveniently located near the food and flea market, which takes place every Thursday. Although we missed the market, it's something I would love to experience on a future visit. The Municipal Garden is not just a place for relaxation; it's also a venue for cultural events and activities. During the summer, it hosts concerts, theatrical performances, and festivals, adding to the city's vibrant cultural scene.

For lunch, we ventured to Lemonokipos Restaurant, a place recommended for its charming ambiance and delicious Cretan cuisine. The restaurant is nestled within Rethymnon's Old Town, and as we stepped inside, we were transported to a hidden courtyard filled with lemon trees. The air was filled with the refreshing scent of citrus, and the atmosphere was magical. Lemonokipos, meaning lemon-tree garden in Greek, is a modern Greek restaurant that offers a menu combining rustic Cretan and Greek flavors with more refined and sophisticated plates. We started with a selection of mezze, including fava beans, aubergine, and beetroot dips, accompanied by fresh bread and olives. For the main course, I opted for the stuffed tomatoes and peppers, a vegan dish that was bursting with flavor. Hans-Peter enjoyed the fresh seafood, while Sophia savored the traditional moussaka. The staff was friendly and attentive, and they even brought us fresh cherries and strawberries on the house. The menu also offers a carefully curated wine list with a selection of premium and organic Greek and Cretan wines, local beers, and spirits. The restaurant is located near Mikrasiaton Square, right next to the Mosque Neratzes and other important monuments, making it a perfect spot for a meal after exploring the city.


Experience authentic Greek cuisine at Lemonokipos Restaurant in Rethymno, where delightful flavors meet a picturesque ambiance under lemon trees.

In the evening, we chose to dine at To Pigadi Restaurant, enticed by its reputation for authentic Cretan cuisine. The restaurant is located in a charming alleyway in the heart of the old town, and as we approached, we were greeted by the aroma of grilled meats and herbs. The setting was enchanting, with tables set in a beautiful flowered alley and a rustic courtyard organized around a pretty well (pigadi in Greek), which gives the restaurant its name. To Pigadi offers tasty, sophisticated cuisine of Cretan inspiration, a perfect alliance of tradition and creativity. We started with wild snails in olive oil, a local delicacy that I had been eager to try. For the main course, I chose the Cretan cock, a traditional dish that was rich and flavorful. Hans-Peter opted for the lamb chops, while Sophia enjoyed the moussaka. The dishes are prepared with local products and vegetables from their garden, ensuring the freshness and quality of the ingredients.


Experience authentic Mediterranean cuisine at To Pigadi Restaurant in Rethymno, where every dish celebrates Cretan flavors with fresh ingredients.

The service was friendly and professional, and the prices were reasonable. The restaurant has been praised for its clever cooking, elevating Cretan cuisine without making it pretentious and losing the heart and soul of what it is all about. After dinner, we were treated to fresh fruits and a small glass of raki, a traditional Cretan spirit. It was the perfect ending to a perfect meal.

To cap off our evening, Hans-Peter and I decided to enjoy a drink at Rudis Bar. It was a cozy place to unwind and reflect on the day. While there seems to be another Rudis Bar in Elounda, this one in Rethymnon offered a friendly atmosphere and a selection of local wines and spirits. We chatted with the friendly staff, who shared stories about the city and its history. It was a relaxing end to a day filled with exploration and discovery.


Experience the vibrant nightlife at Rudis Bar in Elounda, where local charm meets stunning views and creative cocktails.

As I write this, I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventure. We plan to explore the Kamares Cave and the village of Tsikalario, venturing further into the heart of Crete. I am also looking forward to trying the local breakfast at Arismari & Varsamo. I can't wait to see what new discoveries await us.

Today has been a reminder of the power of travel to connect us with history, culture, and nature. Rethymnon, with its Venetian echoes and Cretan flavors, has left an indelible mark on my soul. It's a city that invites you to slow down, savor the moment, and appreciate the beauty that surrounds you.

I feel incredibly fortunate to share these experiences with Hans-Peter and Sophia. Their enthusiasm and curiosity make every adventure even more meaningful. As we continue our journey through Crete, I'm grateful for the opportunity to create memories that will last a lifetime.

I hope my readers will be inspired to explore the hidden gems of Crete, to immerse themselves in its history, and to savor its delicious cuisine. Until tomorrow, farewell, and happy travels!