Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go

A Day Steeped in History and Nostalgia

Today, Hans-Peter and I embarked on a journey through time, exploring the captivating city of Takayama. From the meticulously preserved Takayama Jinya to the charming Hida Takayama Retro Museum, every corner held a story waiting to be discovered. It was a day filled with cultural immersion and delightful surprises, offering a unique glimpse into Japan's rich past.


Step back in time at Japan's only remaining Edo-era government building, where feudal history comes to life in the heart of Takayama.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Hiiragi. While the Hiiragi in Shirakawa-go serves Hida beef and local vegetables, this morning, we enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was the perfect way to energize ourselves for a day of exploration. The cozy atmosphere and the friendly staff made us feel right at home, a comforting start to our Takayama adventure. I must remember to try the Hiiragi back in Shirakawa-go before we leave. I have heard they serve Hida beef A4 and A5 grade sent directly from Hida Takayama Ranch.

Takayama Jinya: Stepping Back into the Edo Period

Our first stop was the Takayama Jinya, the only remaining ancient government office in Japan. Built in 1615, it served as the residence of the ruler of Takayama before becoming a government office in 1692, a role it maintained for 277 years under four dynasties. As an archivist, I was particularly excited to explore this historical landmark, eager to delve into its rich history and meticulously preserved architecture.

Walking through the entranceway, I was immediately transported back to the Edo period. The classic blue Seigaiba pattern, a wave design believed to bring prosperity and peace, adorned the walls. It was fascinating to learn that Takayama Jinya served as the local government office headed by officials dispatched from Edo (present-day Tokyo). These officials were responsible for administration, policing, and judicial functions.

The weight of history settled upon me as I walked through the halls of Takayama Jinya, imagining the lives and decisions that shaped this region centuries ago.

The office area was particularly captivating. We explored the Government Office, Official Business Room, and the Office for Scribes, each room filled with artifacts and exhibits that offered a glimpse into the daily lives of the officials who worked there. Hans-Peter, with his keen eye for detail, was fascinated by the intricate woodwork and the traditional Japanese architecture. He admired the wave patterns and Mamuki Rabbits on the pillars, unique decorations that added a touch of artistry to the functional space.

We ventured into the Law Court and Interrogation Room, a stark reminder of the judicial processes of the time. It was sobering to see the two parts of the room: one for receiving citizens' requests and complaints, and the other for judging criminals. Drawings and replicas of the tools used to punish criminals were on display.

The rice storehouse, believed to have been established around 1600, was another highlight. As one of the oldest and largest rice granaries from the Edo period, it now functions as a museum, showcasing belongings and official documents of past feudal lords, old maps of the Hida Region, and historic town plans. I was particularly intrigued by the section dedicated to the firemen of Takayama, who, because Takayama was under the direct rule of the Tokugawa Shogunate, doubled as peacekeepers.

Before leaving, we strolled through the garden, imagining how beautiful it must be in spring when the Sakura trees are in full bloom. Although it wasn't cherry blossom season, the serene atmosphere and the meticulously manicured landscape provided a peaceful respite. I couldn't help but reflect on the 25 generations of provincial governors and magistrates who had served at Takayama Jinya, ruling Hida under the Shogunate for 176 years.

Hida Takayama Retro Museum: A Nostalgic Journey Through the Showa Era

After immersing ourselves in the Edo period, we decided to shift gears and explore the Hida Takayama Retro Museum, a charming museum dedicated to Japan's Showa era (mid-1920s to 1989). As someone who appreciates history and culture, I was eager to see what this museum had to offer. Hans-Peter, with his love for vintage items and quirky memorabilia, was equally excited.


Experience the charm of Showa era Japan at Hida Takayama Retro Museum: vintage toys, classic games, and nostalgic fun for all ages!

Stepping through the doors of the museum was like stepping into a time capsule. We were greeted by an astounding collection of vintage toys, games, and memorabilia from Japan's colorful Showa era, particularly the 1950s. Retro-style signage and mascot statues of classic characters lined the entrance, creating a whimsical and nostalgic atmosphere.

The museum was filled with interactive exhibits that allowed us to engage with the displays. We tried our hand at various retro games and activities, laughing and reminiscing about simpler times. Hans-Peter was particularly fond of the vintage gaming consoles, while I was drawn to the displays of retro household appliances and devices.

The dagashiya (penny candy corner) was a delightful surprise, arranged like a little shop where we could buy nostalgic treats and sweets. It reminded me of my childhood in Latvia, where we would often visit the local market to buy candies and small toys. We also explored a retro-style classroom, complete with a working chalkboard and nostalgic school uniforms. It was fascinating to see how education and daily life had changed over the years.

One of the highlights of the museum was the tatami-floored room, which served as a play area for visitors of all ages. We tried out a weird massage chair and played some old-fashioned games, feeling like children again. The shelves crammed with ceramic dolls and vintage posters added to the museum's charm.

We also discovered a corner with Showa-era pachinko machines. It was interesting to see how these games were enjoyed by people during that time. Before leaving, we indulged in some nostalgic school lunches, such as Showa soft noodles and fried bread. It was a fun and tasty way to complete our visit to the Hida Takayama Retro Museum.

A Culinary Interlude: Lunch at Arai

By lunchtime, we had worked up quite an appetite. Based on a recommendation, we headed to Arai for a taste of local cuisine. Arai is a cozy and homey restaurant. We opted for the Hida beef set, which came highly recommended. The beef was tender and flavorful, perfectly complemented by the sweet miso sauce. The tofu and other side dishes were also delicious, adding to the overall dining experience.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Arai in Shirakawa, where traditional dishes meet stunning cultural heritage.

A Sweet Souvenir: Kodaijin Souvenir Store

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped by the Kodaijin Souvenir Store to pick up a few mementos of our trip. The store offered a wide variety of Shirakawa-go special products, Hida folk crafts, and local sake. We purchased a small Sarubobo doll, a local mascot said to bring joy to families, and a bottle of locally brewed sake. These souvenirs will serve as a reminder of our wonderful time in Takayama and Shirakawa-go.


Explore Kodaijin Souvenir Store in Shirakawa for unique Japanese treasures and cultural keepsakes to commemorate your travels.

As we made our way back, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences we had today. Takayama had truly captured our hearts with its blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. I am already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit Hida-Sashiko and Yoshijima Traditional House. Perhaps, we can also visit Koshiyama for a drink.

The journey continues, and I am excited to see what adventures await us in this enchanting land.