Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go

Immersing Ourselves in Shirakawa-go's Heritage

Today was a day dedicated to delving deeper into the heart of Shirakawa-go, exploring its crafts, architecture, and, of course, its delightful cuisine. It's amazing how much history and culture can be packed into a single day when you open yourself up to the experiences around you.

Our tenth day in Japan began with a hearty breakfast at Tanaka-ya. The traditional Japanese breakfast set us up perfectly for a day of exploration. I always appreciate the simple, yet nourishing way the Japanese start their day. It reminds me of my childhood in Latvia, where a simple, wholesome meal was the foundation of a productive day. Hans-Peter, ever the curious one, was particularly taken with the *takikomi gohan*, rice cooked with vegetables. He was already planning how he might recreate it back in Berlin, perhaps with some German twists. After breakfast, we set out to immerse ourselves in the local culture, starting with a visit to Hida-Sashiko.


Discover traditional Japanese embroidery at Hida-Sashiko in Takayama, where craftsmanship meets culture in every stitch.

Discovering Hida-Sashiko

Hida-Sashiko was a fascinating experience. The intricate embroidery, a traditional craft used to reinforce fabrics, was simply stunning. I was particularly drawn to the geometric patterns and the deep indigo dyes. It reminded me of the textiles I used to see in my grandmother's house in Cēsis, although the patterns were distinctly Japanese. Hans-Peter, with his keen eye for detail, was impressed by the precision and artistry of the stitching. We learned that *sashiko* was originally a practical technique, but it has evolved into a beautiful art form. We even had the opportunity to speak with some of the local craftswomen, who patiently explained the history and techniques behind their work. I couldn't resist purchasing a small *sashiko* wallet as a memento. It's a beautiful reminder of the skill and dedication of these artisans.

The beauty of traditional crafts lies not only in their aesthetic appeal but also in the stories they tell about the history and culture of a place.

Exploring Yoshijima Traditional House

Explore a Meiji-era sake brewer's home in Takayama, showcasing traditional architecture and craftsmanship.
Next on our itinerary was the Yoshijima Traditional House. This beautifully preserved house, once a sake brewery, offered a glimpse into the lives of a prosperous merchant family. The architecture was remarkable, with its high vaulted ceilings, sturdy wooden beams, and intricate woodwork. The house was built in 1907 and has been designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property.

As we stepped inside, we were immediately struck by the serene atmosphere and the play of light and shadow. The central pillar, a massive beam of wood, was particularly impressive. Hans-Peter, ever the furniture restorer, was fascinated by the joinery and the way the house was constructed without the use of nails. The house had a certain feminine beauty to it, with subtlety and sensitivity throughout. I found myself imagining the lives of the family who once lived here, brewing sake and conducting business in this elegant space. The *sakabayashi*, a large ball of cedar twigs hanging under the eaves, was a clear sign that this building had been a brewery.

Lunch at Yamamotoya

Discover authentic soba noodles at Yamamotoya in Shirakawa - where tradition meets deliciousness amidst breathtaking scenery.
By lunchtime, we were both feeling quite peckish. We decided to try Yamamotoya, a restaurant known for its *soba* noodles. The restaurant is located in a traditional *gassho-zukuri* house, adding to the charm of the experience. We arrived just in time for lunch, which is served from mid-April to late November. In the winter, it becomes a guesthouse. The *soba* was delicious, light, and refreshing. I opted for the *bukkake soba*, cold *soba* with sesame and pickled plum, while Hans-Peter chose the Lady's Set, which included cold *soba*, stewed tofu and beef, and bracken *mochi*. The stewed tofu and beef were also very good.

Dinner at Nomura

Experience authentic Japanese soba noodles at Nomura in Shirakawa—where tradition meets flavor in every bowl.
As evening approached, we made our way to Nomura for dinner. This cozy *soba* restaurant is known for its freshly made noodles and intimate atmosphere. With only 12 seats at the counter, it felt like a truly local experience. We watched as the chef prepared our noodles right in front of us, a testament to the freshness and quality of the ingredients. The *soba* was simple but delicious, a perfect way to end a day of cultural exploration. The restaurant uses locally sourced ingredients from the Hida region to preserve the natural flavors.

Evening Drinks at Koshiyama

Discover Koshiyama in Shirakawa for authentic soba noodles and unique antiques, a perfect blend of culinary delight and cultural charm.
To cap off the evening, we decided to visit Koshiyama, a local bar known for its unique atmosphere and selection of drinks. It turned out to be more than just a bar; it was a delightful blend of culinary delights and cultural charm. The bar also operates as an antique store, where visitors can browse through a curated selection of beautiful traditional items. We enjoyed a couple of local brews while chatting with the friendly owner, who shared stories about the history of the village and the antiques on display. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.

As we walked back to our *ryokan* under the starlit sky, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty and culture of Shirakawa-go. It's a place that truly captures the essence of traditional Japan, and I'm so glad we had the chance to immerse ourselves in its rich heritage. Tomorrow, we plan to venture further afield, visiting the Nezumita-mon Gate and the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum. It promises to be another day filled with discovery and adventure. I am particularly excited about the Dinosaur Museum, as I know Hans-Peter has always been fascinated by paleontology. It reminds me of our early dates in Berlin, visiting the Museum für Naturkunde and marveling at the dinosaur skeletons. Even after all these years, we still find joy in exploring new things together. It will be a change of pace from today's focus on traditional crafts and architecture, but I am sure we will find something equally fascinating to learn and share. The blend of history and natural wonders is what makes traveling so enriching, and I am eager to see what tomorrow brings.

I am also mindful of the Doburoku Festival, which takes place in October. It is a harvest festival with prayers, singing, and dancing aided by home brew. It sounds like a wonderful cultural experience, and perhaps we can plan a return visit to Shirakawa-go to witness it firsthand.

Until tomorrow,
Elza