Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Journey Through Time and Nature

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the physical challenge of hiking through ancient mountain passes with the serene beauty of nature and the delightful flavors of local cuisine. Daniel and I set out early, eager to immerse ourselves in the history and landscapes of Kumano Kodo. It’s amazing how these trails, once trod by emperors and pilgrims, still resonate with a sense of timelessness.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Kakinoate. This charming spot is known for its persimmon leaf sushi. I opted for the mackerel, while Daniel chose the salmon. Each piece was carefully wrapped, the subtle flavor of the persimmon leaf infusing the rice and fish. It was the perfect start to a day of hiking.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

Conquering Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass

After breakfast, we headed towards Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. The trail was challenging, but the views were more than worth the effort. As we ascended, the air grew cooler, and the sounds of the city faded away, replaced by the rustling of leaves and the songs of birds. The path wound through dense forests, sunlight dappling through the canopy above. I felt a world away from my usual London life. I even forgot that I had left my portable phone charger at the hotel!


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

We passed several other hikers along the way, each offering a friendly nod or greeting. There's a real sense of camaraderie on these trails, a shared appreciation for the beauty and history that surrounds us. The trails themselves are well-marked , a testament to the care and respect the Japanese have for their heritage. The hike was invigorating, a reminder of the simple pleasures of putting one foot in front of the other and connecting with nature. Daniel, ever the supportive husband, kept me motivated with his stories and encouragement, especially during the steeper sections.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

A Moment of Awe at the Fukusada-no-Oicho Gingko Tree

Our next stop was the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree. This ancient tree, estimated to be around 400 years old, is a sight to behold. Its massive trunk and sprawling branches create a canopy of green that provides a welcome respite from the sun. According to some sources, the tree's height is around 22 meters, and its girth is about 5.5 meters. It’s considered both a local and national treasure.


Explore the ancient beauty of the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Ginkgo Tree, a symbol of resilience and tranquility in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

Standing beneath its branches, I felt a sense of awe and humility. It's incredible to think of all the seasons this tree has witnessed, all the changes it has endured. Daniel and I spent a few moments in quiet contemplation, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. It was a perfect spot for some photography, one of my favorite hobbies. I tried to capture the grandeur of the tree, hoping to share its beauty with you all.

Lunch at Kumagoro

By lunchtime, we were both ravenous. We stopped at Kumagoro for a satisfying meal. While I know there's a Kumagoro restaurant in Anchorage, Alaska , this one was a local Japanese restaurant. We enjoyed a variety of dishes, including fresh sushi and savory ramen. It was a delicious and energizing meal that prepared us for the rest of our day.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

Shopping for Souvenirs at Daimonzaka Chaya

In the afternoon, we visited Daimonzaka Chaya, a charming shop that sells local crafts and souvenirs. I found a beautiful hand-painted fan, which I plan to give to my mum. Daniel picked up a few small trinkets for his colleagues back in London. It's always nice to bring back a little piece of the places we visit, a tangible reminder of our adventures.


Experience the elegance of traditional Japanese attire at Daimonzaka Chaya, the premier costume rental service in Wakayama for your cultural adventure.

A Culinary Conclusion at Hinoki Steak House

As evening approached, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. This restaurant is renowned for its Kumano beef, and we were eager to try it. I opted for the steak, while Daniel chose the hamburger made from 100% local high-quality Kumano beef. Both dishes were cooked to perfection, the meat tender and flavorful. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the staff were friendly and attentive. It was the perfect way to end a day of hiking and exploration.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the incredible blend of physical activity, natural beauty, and cultural immersion that Kumano Kodo offers. It's a place where you can challenge yourself physically, connect with nature, and learn about the rich history and traditions of Japan. As we head back to our accommodation, I can’t help but feel grateful for this experience. I'm also looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall and hike the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. Perhaps we'll stop for a drink at the Orchard Knight bar later that evening!

Tonight, I'm falling asleep with a smile on my face, already dreaming of the adventures that await us tomorrow.

And to think, I almost forgot to pack my sunscreen! Luckily, Daniel reminded me, saving us from a sunburned disaster. Sometimes, it's the little things that make all the difference.

Until tomorrow,
Emily