Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past

Today, Daniel and I embarked on a day filled with cultural immersion and natural beauty. As we continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo, I felt a profound connection to the pilgrims who walked these paths centuries ago. The blend of history, spirituality, and stunning landscapes made for an unforgettable experience, further enriching our understanding of Japan's rich heritage.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at the Fushiogami Teahouse. The aroma of freshly brewed tea and the gentle chatter of fellow travelers created a warm and inviting atmosphere. I savored the traditional Japanese breakfast, a delightful assortment of small dishes that energized me for the day ahead. Daniel, of course, was more interested in the sweet pastries, but even he seemed to appreciate the tranquility of the setting. It’s funny how a simple cup of coffee can bridge the gap between cultures and continents. The teahouse itself was nestled amidst tea plantations, offering stunning mountain views – a perfect start to a day filled with exploration.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

Refreshed and ready, our first stop was the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. As we approached the shrine, the elegant architecture and serene environment immediately captivated us. The Treasure Hall is located in the main courtyard, across from the worship hall. Inside, we were transported back in time, surrounded by ancient scrolls, religious artifacts, and intricate mandalas.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

I was particularly fascinated by the Nachisan Shrine Mandala, a vivid representation of the shrine's cosmology painted some 500 years ago. It was incredible to think that this artwork was once used by Kumano bikuni, traveling nuns who preached the Kumano faith throughout Japan. Daniel was captivated by the collection of small, round mirrors that were once used on portable shrines during the Nachi Fire Festival. The mirrors, symbols of Amaterasu-no-Okami, the sun goddess, were believed to ward off evil. It was a tangible connection to the vibrant history and traditions of the shrine.

The journey through Kumano Nachi is not just a walk through nature, but a passage through time, connecting us to the spiritual roots of Japan.

Leaving the Treasure Hall, we set out to experience the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. This scenic pass is part of the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, recognized for their spiritual significance and breathtaking natural landscapes. As we traversed the well-maintained trails, we found ourselves enveloped in lush greenery, with towering trees and vibrant flora creating an enchanting atmosphere. The path wound through tranquil forests and offered stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains and coastal views, making it a perfect getaway for nature lovers and adventure seekers like us.


Discover breathtaking views and spiritual trails at Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass, a must-visit hiking destination in Wakayama, Japan.

Along the route, we discovered historical shrines and temples that reflected the spiritual essence of the Kumano region. The deep-rooted traditions and serene ambiance made this area not only a physical journey but also a spiritual one, inviting us to connect deeply with nature and history. The Shimizu-toge Pass marks the border between the regional areas of Kuchi-Kumano and Oku-Kumano, with a monument built in 1927 to mark the transition. The views from the east end of the pass, overlooking Uragami Bay, were simply breathtaking.

For lunch, we stopped at Tororoya, a charming restaurant known for its local cuisine. I decided to try the *tororo* rice, a local specialty, while Daniel opted for a hearty noodle dish. The food was simple but delicious, providing a comforting warmth that filled us from the inside out. It was the perfect way to refuel after our morning hike.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves at the Watarase Onsen cafe. The onsen is a large, relatively new complex on the site of the Watase Onsen spring. While it may lack the authenticity of some of the nearby onsen that have been around for centuries, Watarase Onsen offers bathers some treats that should not be overlooked. Its expansive bath system is said to be large enough for 1000 people to bathe, though you'll likely feel like you have plenty of room even if there's only 100.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we decided to check out Orchard Knight, a local bar known for its fruit cocktails and creative Italian cuisine. The bar had an open and inviting atmosphere, with a back bar designed with a world map, giving it a unique and resort-like feel. I opted for one of their signature fruit cocktails, while Daniel enjoyed a glass of local sake. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Tokyo at Orchard Knight, where innovative cocktails and a stylish atmosphere create an unforgettable experience.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we plan to visit Tsubo-yu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Japan's oldest hot springs. We’re also hoping to explore Inabaneoji Shrine. I am excited to continue our journey and uncover more of the hidden gems along the Kumano Kodo.

The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me. Each day brings new discoveries and deeper connections to the history and spirituality of this ancient pilgrimage route. I am grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with Daniel and with all of you. Until tomorrow, safe travels!

As a side note, I really need to remember to pack a portable phone charger next time. It would have been so useful today!