Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Pilgrimage Begins

Today marked the beginning of our Kumano Kodo adventure, a journey Daniel and I have been eagerly anticipating. Leaving London behind, we embraced the serene landscapes and spiritual aura of Japan. I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement mixed with a touch of nervousness as we set foot on these ancient trails. It’s a far cry from my usual marketing strategies and London boardrooms, but I’m ready to soak in every moment, every step, and every story this pilgrimage has to offer.

Our day started early with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The cafe was a delightful surprise, offering a blend of rustic charm and modern comforts. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Daniel, ever the adventurous one, tried a bagel. Fuelled up and ready to go, we made our way to the Kumano Kodo Information Center.

The Kumano Kodo Information Center proved to be an invaluable starting point. We gathered maps, trail information, and learned about the history and significance of the pilgrimage. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing insights into the local flora, fauna, and the cultural nuances of the region. It was fascinating to discover that the Kumano Kodo is a network of pilgrimage routes that have been traversed for over 1,000 years. Knowing that emperors, aristocrats, and commoners alike have walked these paths gave me a profound sense of connection to the past.

Equipped with our newfound knowledge, we set off towards our main destination for the day: Kumano Hongu Taisha. The journey itself was an experience, winding through lush forests and past small villages. The air was fresh and clean, a welcome change from London's bustling streets. I made a mental note to remember to buy sunscreen tomorrow; my fair skin was already feeling the sun.

The path to enlightenment is often found in the journey itself, not just the destination.

As we walked, we passed the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, a charming rest area and shop. We stopped to browse the local crafts and sample some regional snacks. I picked up a few postcards to send to friends back home, already eager to share my experiences. Daniel, on the other hand, was fascinated by the locally grown vegetables.

Continuing our trek, we arrived at Fushiogami Teahouse for lunch. This teahouse is a true gem, offering a serene retreat amidst the pilgrimage route. We savored traditional Japanese teas and light snacks, soaking in the tranquil atmosphere. The staff was incredibly welcoming, sharing stories about the teahouse and the surrounding area. It was a perfect spot to recharge before continuing our journey.

Finally, we reached Kumano Hongu Taisha, a majestic shrine nestled in the mountains. The grand shrine exuded a sense of history and spirituality. We climbed the long stone staircase leading to the sacred grounds, surrounded by towering cedar and cypress trees. The architecture was stunning, blending seamlessly with the natural environment.

Inside the shrine, we took time to reflect and offer our prayers. It was a humbling experience, standing in a place that has been a spiritual center for centuries. I felt a sense of peace and connection, a feeling that transcended the physical journey.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. After a day of hiking, we were both craving something hearty. The steak house, run by a second-generation owner, is known for its Kumano beef. Daniel ordered a steak, while I opted for the Kumano beef hamburg. The food was delicious, a perfect end to a long day.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that this pilgrimage is more than just a hike; it's a journey of self-discovery and connection. The physical challenges are real, but the rewards are immeasurable. I’m already looking forward to tomorrow’s adventure, which includes visits to Nachi Waterfall and Kumano-Nachi Taisha. We will start our day with breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe, followed by lunch at Sansaro Cafe and dinner at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. And perhaps we'll visit Why Kumano bar. For now, though, it’s time to rest and recharge for another day on the sacred trails.

P.S. I heard that the Obon Festival is celebrated from August 13 to 15 in many regions of Japan. Although we missed the main dates, I hope we will still be able to experience some of its spirit during our journey. Also, I've read about the Awa Odori festival in Tokushima, which takes place from August 11 to 15. It sounds like an amazing event with vibrant dance performances. Perhaps we can catch a glimpse of it if we have time.