Exploring Iceland's Snæfellsnes Peninsula Solo

A Day of Contrasts on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Today was a day of incredible contrasts, a perfect encapsulation of why I chose to explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula solo. From the stark, historical lava fields to the charming, windswept coastlines, and the cozy culinary experiences in between, every moment felt like a deep dive into the heart of Iceland. It's days like these that remind me why I traded my Berlin apartment for a campervan and a map.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Hlaðan Veitingahús in Ólafsvík. This place is located in a beautifully renovated barn, which added to its charm. I enjoyed a traditional Icelandic breakfast, fueling up for a day of exploration. The staff was friendly, and the atmosphere was lovely, making it a perfect start to the day.

Venturing into Berserkjahraun

After breakfast, I set off to explore Berserkjahraun, an ancient lava field with a dark and fascinating history. The name Berserkjahraun comes from the Eyrbyggja Saga, a tale of two Swedish berserkers who were tasked with clearing a path through the lava field. It’s incredible to walk through this landscape, imagining the strength and desperation of those men.

The lava field itself is a sight to behold. Formed about 4,000 years ago by four scoria craters, the landscape is a mix of moss-covered rocks and hardened lava spikes. The vibrant green moss against the dark lava creates a stunning contrast, especially under the bright Icelandic sky. I spent hours wandering through the field, taking photos and soaking in the eerie silence. It's a place where you can truly feel the raw, untamed power of nature.

The earth has music for those who listen.

One of the most interesting aspects of Berserkjahraun is the visible path, known as Berserkjagata, believed to be the route cleared by the berserkers. Walking along this path, I couldn't help but reflect on the stories and legends that permeate every corner of Iceland. It's a place where history and nature intertwine, creating an experience that is both awe-inspiring and humbling.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Berserkjahraun, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland offering stunning views and unforgettable hiking experiences.

The Red Hill of Rauðhóll

Next on my list was Rauðhóll, a red volcanic crater that offers a relatively easy hike. The trail is part of the Snæfellsjökull National Park, and it’s well-marked, making it accessible for hikers of all levels. As I started the ascent, the views began to open up, revealing the stunning landscapes of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

The hike to the top of Rauðhóll takes about an hour, and it’s worth every step. From the summit, the panoramic views are breathtaking. You can see the lava fields stretching out towards the sea, the majestic Snæfellsjökull glacier in the distance, and the surrounding countryside dotted with ponds and small lakes. The crater itself is a vibrant red color, a stark contrast to the green and black landscape below.

The trail leads through old lava fields, grassy patches, and small rocks, with beautiful ponds scattered around. It's a protected area, and it’s important to stay on the marked path to avoid damaging the delicate environment. The proximity to Snæfellsjökull adds to the magic of this place, making it a truly unforgettable experience.


Explore Rauðhóll, an enchanting hiking area on Snæfellsnes Peninsula, where breathtaking landscapes and unique geological features await.

Lunch with a View

By lunchtime, I was ready for a break. I headed to Sjávarkjallarinn in Ólafsvík, a restaurant known for its seafood. The restaurant had amazing views, which made the meal even more enjoyable. I ordered the fish and chips, and it was delicious.

Súgandisey Island Lighthouse

In the afternoon, I made my way to Stykkishólmur to visit the Súgandisey Island Lighthouse. This basalt island, located just off the coast of Stykkishólmur harbor, is connected to the mainland by a causeway, making it easily accessible. The walk to the lighthouse is short but rewarding, offering stunning views of Breiðafjörður and the surrounding area.

The lighthouse itself is charming, with its bright red color standing out against the blue sea and sky. From the top, the views are even more spectacular. You can see the town of Stykkishólmur, the numerous islands in Breiðafjörður, and the distant mountains. It’s a perfect spot for taking photos and simply enjoying the tranquility of the Icelandic coast.

This particular lighthouse has an interesting history; it was originally located in Grótta, near Reykjavík, before being moved to Súgandisey. Standing there, looking out at the vast expanse of the ocean, I felt a sense of peace and connection to the natural world.


Explore the breathtaking Sugandisey Island Lighthouse in Stykkishólmur, a scenic gem with stunning views and rich maritime history, perfect for nature lovers.

Dinner at Narfeyrarstofa

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Narfeyrarstofa in Stykkishólmur. This restaurant is located in one of the oldest buildings in town, and it has a reputation for serving excellent local cuisine. The atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, and the staff is friendly and attentive.

I ordered the grilled scallops, which were cooked to perfection. The menu also included fresh fish, lamb, and blue mussels from the area, all prepared with a modern twist. To complement my meal, I enjoyed a glass of local wine, savoring the flavors of Iceland.

Narfeyrarstofa has a long-standing reputation for quality, and it’s clear that they are committed to using the freshest ingredients and providing excellent service. The restaurant's decor is also noteworthy, with a unique and charming interior that adds to the overall dining experience.

A Nightcap at Hvanneyri Pub

To end the day, I stopped by Hvanneyri Pub in Ólafsvík for a nightcap. This pub is known for its relaxed atmosphere and friendly locals. It’s a great place to unwind after a day of exploring and to get a taste of Icelandic nightlife. The pub offers a variety of drinks, including local beers and spirits, as well as a menu of hearty meals.

As I sat there, sipping my drink and chatting with some of the locals, I felt a sense of belonging and connection to this incredible place. It’s moments like these that make solo travel so rewarding – the chance to immerse yourself in a new culture and to connect with people from all walks of life.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my exploration of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, visiting Snorrastadir Farm Holidays, the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, and the Jules Verne monument. I’m also looking forward to trying some local cuisine at Arnarbær for breakfast, Mæstro - Street food for lunch, and Skurinn for dinner. And, of course, I'll be sure to stop by Bókunarverzlun Breiðafjarðar - Kram Stykkishólmi for some souvenirs.

As I head back to my campervan for the night, I’m filled with gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula continues to surprise and delight me at every turn, and I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. This solo journey is turning out to be everything I hoped for and more. The freedom to explore at my own pace, to connect with nature, and to immerse myself in the local culture is truly priceless. And who knows, maybe David and I will return together someday, sharing these incredible experiences as a couple. For now, though, I'm content to soak it all in on my own, one lava field, one lighthouse, and one delicious meal at a time.