Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Island Shrines and Polka Dots
Today was a day of wandering through Naoshima's artful soul, a journey that took me from ancient shrines to whimsical pumpkins, all while savoring the local flavors. The island continues to surprise me with its seamless blend of the traditional and the contemporary, a balance that feels both intentional and wonderfully organic.

I started my day with a hearty breakfast at Ebisukamo. The cozy atmosphere and the friendly staff made it a perfect spot to fuel up before a day of exploration. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was a delicious and nourishing start, setting the tone for a day immersed in art and culture.

My first stop was the Art House Project, specifically the Go'o Shrine. Nestled atop a hill in the Honmura district, the shrine offered a serene escape and a unique artistic experience. The Art House Project itself is an initiative where artists transform empty houses and spaces into works of art, weaving in the history and memories of the buildings. The Go'o Shrine, designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto, was particularly striking. The glass staircase connecting the main shrine to an underground rock chamber was a beautiful metaphor for the connection between the earthly and the divine. The minimalist design, using simple materials like wood, stone, and glass, created an atmosphere of profound peace.


Discover the serene Art House Project: Go'o Shrine in Naoshima, where contemporary art meets traditional Shinto spirituality in a breathtaking setting.

The climb to the shrine was worth it, not just for the art, but also for the panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea. The islands dotting the horizon, the gentle sea breeze, and the quiet hum of nature created a moment of perfect tranquility. I spent some time simply sitting on the steps, sketching in my notebook and soaking in the beauty of the surroundings.

Art doesn't transform. It just plain forms.

After the spiritual interlude at Go'o Shrine, I made my way to the iconic Red Pumpkin near Miyanoura Port. This sculpture by Yayoi Kusama is one of the first things you see when arriving by ferry, and it has become a symbol of Naoshima. Covered in bold black polka dots, the pumpkin is both playful and thought-provoking. You can even step inside the sculpture and experience the world through the dotted apertures, a whimsical and slightly disorienting experience that offers a glimpse into Kusama's unique artistic vision. I couldn't resist taking a few photos, joining the many other visitors who were equally captivated by this quirky masterpiece.


Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

For lunch, I ventured to Kinosaki Udon Naoshima, a local favorite known for its authentic udon noodles. The shop was bustling with locals, always a good sign, and the aroma of freshly prepared noodles filled the air. I ordered the bukkake udon, cold noodles with a savory bonito soy sauce, topped with grated yam, nori, and tempura flakes. It was a delightful combination of textures and flavors, and the perfect fuel for more art exploration. The udon was handmade and had a wonderful chewy texture. I savored every bite, feeling grateful for the simple pleasures of good food and a welcoming atmosphere.


Experience authentic Japanese udon noodles at Kinosaki Udon Naoshima - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy setting.

In the afternoon, I took some time to explore the local shops, including Mikazukishoten. This charming little shop is known for its specialty coffee and unique souvenirs. The owner, who previously worked in the fashion industry, decided to open the coffee stand after being captivated by the Japanese coffee business. I picked up a few Naoshima-themed postcards and, of course, a bag of their carefully selected coffee beans to bring back to Berlin. I can already imagine brewing a cup on a chilly morning and reminiscing about my time on this magical island.


Discover the perfect blend of exquisite coffee and unique souvenirs at Mikazukishoten in Naoshima, a true gem for art and coffee lovers alike.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Yuunagi, a restaurant near the port known for its fresh seafood. I decided to try the Naoshima flounder, which is raised locally. I opted for the fried flounder set meal. The fish was incredibly fresh and flavorful, and the crispy batter was perfectly seasoned. It was a satisfying end to a day filled with art, culture, and culinary delights.


Discover Yuunagi: A Seafood Haven on Naoshima Island Offering Authentic Japanese Teishoku Cuisine.

The temperature in February is mild, with average highs around 10°C (49°F) and lows around 3°C (37°F). The weather was breezy, so I was glad I had packed layers. Despite the cooler temperatures, the island was vibrant and full of life, and I felt a sense of warmth and welcome wherever I went.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my exploration of the Art House Project, visiting Kadoya and Miyanoura Gallery 6. I'm also looking forward to trying Little Plum for breakfast and Aisunao for lunch. And, if I'm feeling adventurous, I might just check out Cin.na.mon, a local bar, for a nightcap. But for now, I'm content to relax and reflect on the day's adventures, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience the unique beauty and charm of Naoshima.

Naoshima has a way of seeping into your soul, leaving you with a sense of peace and inspiration. It's more than just an art island; it's a place where art, nature, and community come together in perfect harmony. It's a place I know I'll never forget, and I'm already looking forward to returning someday.

It’s funny, I almost forgot the power adapter again today. Luckily, I noticed before leaving My Lodge Naoshima, but I’ll definitely need to be more careful. I also realized I should have packed an extra camera battery! Between all the art and scenery, my camera is getting quite the workout.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Back in Berlin, David would be fascinated by the engineering and design aspects of the museums and art installations here. I can already picture him poring over architectural plans and discussing the use of light and space. Maybe next time, I can convince him to join me on this artistic adventure.

The Setouchi Triennale art festivals are held every three years and are quite the event, drawing art lovers from all over the world. Perhaps I’ll plan my next visit around that!

And it seems that I’m not the only one who’s noticed Naoshima’s growing art scene. I read that the Naoshima New Museum of Art is scheduled to open in May of 2025. That will be something to see on a future visit!