A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Kumano's Coastal Charms & Culinary Gems

Day 12 on the Kumano Kodo trail brought a delightful mix of scenic hikes and authentic culinary experiences. Today was all about embracing the coastal beauty of the Ohechi Pilgrimage Route and indulging in the local flavors that make this region so special. It's amazing how each day here brings a new perspective and deeper appreciation for the spiritual and natural richness of Japan.

I started my day with an early breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. This charming spot, housed in a beautifully renovated 130-year-old house, offered a simple yet satisfying start to the day. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with miso soup, grilled fish, and rice. The cozy atmosphere and friendly staff made it a perfect way to fuel up before hitting the trails. I even learned a bit about the history of the building, which is designated as a national tangible cultural property. It's these little details that make traveling so rewarding. It reminded me of the small cafes in Lyon, where every corner has a story to tell.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to explore the Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route - Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony. The Ohechi route is known for its stunning coastal views and is considered one of the most unique of the Kumano Kodo trails. As I walked, I was struck by the dramatic contrast of the lush green mountains meeting the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The trail meandered through small villages, offering glimpses into the daily life of the locals. It was easy to imagine the writers and artists who, centuries ago, sought inspiration in these very landscapes.

The Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony itself was a fascinating sight. The rugged coastline, dotted with unique rock formations, provided a stunning backdrop for the hike. The sound of the waves crashing against the shore was both soothing and invigorating. I took countless photos, trying to capture the essence of this beautiful place. Even though my sunscreen was one of the items I had forgotten, the cool ocean breeze kept the sun from being too harsh.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of moments, like a quiet walk along an ancient path.

Continuing my journey, I ventured into Yoshino Kumano National Park. This park, encompassing parts of Wakayama, Mie, and Nara prefectures, is a treasure trove of natural beauty and spiritual significance. As I hiked deeper into the park, the landscape transformed from coastal views to dense forests. The air was fresh and clean, filled with the scent of cedar and pine. I felt a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me, a feeling I often miss in the bustling city of Lyon.

The park is home to the Kumano Kodo, an ancient pilgrimage route that has drawn nature worshippers and religious pilgrims for over 1,000 years. Walking along these trails, I could feel the history beneath my feet. It was humbling to think of the countless people who had walked this path before me, seeking enlightenment and connection with nature. The synergy between nature and spirituality is palpable here, creating a truly unique and moving experience.

For lunch, I stopped at Tororoya, a restaurant known for its healthy and delicious food options. I opted for their specialty, tororo meshi, which is a dish made with grated yam. The yam, locally sourced, was incredibly fresh and flavorful. The meal came with free refills of barley rice, which was a welcome treat after a morning of hiking. I enjoyed the simple yet satisfying flavors, a perfect example of Japanese cuisine's emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients. It was a delightful change from the rich, buttery sauces I often encounter in French cuisine.

In the evening, I made my way to Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, one of Japan's oldest hot spring towns. Before dinner, I explored the town, which is nestled in a small valley surrounded by mountains. The atmosphere was serene and peaceful, a perfect place to unwind after a long day of hiking. I learned that Yunomine Onsen was discovered about 1,800 years ago and is considered one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. According to legend, the village owes its wealth of medicinal waters to the Buddha of healing, Yakushi Nyorai.

For dinner, I decided to try the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This charming establishment serves as a casual Japanese-style restaurant, offering a variety of traditional dishes. I chose a teishoku set, which included a hearty rice bowl and some delicate sashimi. The ingredients were incredibly fresh, reflecting the flavors of the region. The dining hall also functions as a newsstand, providing access to local news and travel information. The friendly staff was eager to share recommendations, making the dining experience even more enjoyable.

After dinner, I decided to check out Guest House Okagesan, a bar that had been recommended to me. This guesthouse, run by the charismatic Mr. Shirai, has a contagious, booming laugh. It is a historic house in the Wataze Onsen area of Hongu, about 10 minutes walk from Watarase Onsen. The building has all of the features of an authentic Japanese mountain home with an open, airy concept of pillar and beam construction. The floors are covered with tatami mats, and rooms are divided by sliding fusuma doors.

The bar itself had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. I enjoyed a glass of local sake while chatting with some fellow travelers. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. It reminded me of the small wine bars in Lyon, where people gather to share stories and enjoy good company.

As I prepare for tomorrow, I am excited to explore more of what Kumano Kodo has to offer. My itinerary includes visiting the Shinsekaiinari Shrine and the teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka. I'm also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for breakfast, Tororoya for lunch again, and Yorozuya Eatery for dinner. Before heading to the next destination, I plan to stop by Daimonzaka Chaya for some shopping. I'm especially curious about the Daimonzaka Chaya shop.

Today was a reminder of why I love solo travel. It allows me to fully immerse myself in the local culture, connect with nature, and discover hidden gems along the way. Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. The blend of coastal trails, culinary delights, and spiritual serenity has truly captured my heart, making this pilgrimage a journey of a lifetime. Perhaps I'll even bring Jean-Pierre and Sophie here someday to experience this magical place together. For now, though, I'm content to soak in the tranquility and beauty of Kumano Kodo on my own.