A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Whispers of the Past
Today was a day of deep reflection and profound beauty, as I continued my journey through the Kumano Kodo. The path led me to places where the veil between the present and the ancient past seemed thin, where the whispers of pilgrims long gone echoed in the rustling leaves and the gentle breeze. It was a day to connect with the spiritual heart of Japan, to challenge myself physically and to find serenity in the simple act of walking.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. I savored the locally sourced ingredients, a delightful mix of traditional Japanese flavors and modern café fare. Fuelled up, I set off towards my first destination: Seiganto-ji Temple. As I approached, the iconic three-storied pagoda came into view, framed perfectly against the backdrop of Nachi Falls. The sight was breathtaking, a harmonious blend of nature and human artistry. The vibrant red of the pagoda popped against the lush green of the surrounding forest, creating a picture-postcard moment that I knew my camera couldn't fully capture.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

Seiganto-ji Temple, a Tendai Buddhist temple, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, 'Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range'. Legend says that a monk from India, Ragyō Shōnin, founded the temple in the 4th century. What struck me most was the temple's intentional placement near Nachi Falls, suggesting an ancient connection to nature worship. It's fascinating how the site has been a place of spiritual importance for centuries, long before Buddhism even arrived in Japan. Emperor Kazan visited the Kumano area in 988 and declared the temple as one of the Saigoku Kannon pilgrimage.

Wandering through the temple grounds, I felt a sense of peace wash over me. The air was thick with the scent of incense, and the gentle chanting of monks created a soothing atmosphere. I climbed the steps of the pagoda, each level offering a new perspective on the falls and the surrounding landscape. From the top, the view was simply magnificent, a panoramic vista of mountains and sea that stretched as far as the eye could see.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those that lead us back to ourselves.

After soaking in the tranquility of Seiganto-ji, it was time to embrace a different kind of challenge. My next stop was Kamikura Shrine. To reach it, I had to climb 538 steep stone steps that wind their way up Mount Chihogamine. I must admit, the climb was more strenuous than I had anticipated! The steps were uneven and worn, a testament to the countless pilgrims who had ascended them over the centuries. About halfway up, I had to stop to catch my breath, my legs burning with exertion. But as I looked back down the path, I was rewarded with stunning views of Shingu and the Kumano Sea. It was a reminder that the greatest rewards often come after the greatest efforts.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

Finally reaching the top, I was greeted by the sight of Gotobiki Rock, a massive boulder that serves as the shrine's main sacred object. It's believed that the Kumano Gongen deities first descended here, making this site a foundational part of the Kumano faith. The sheer size and presence of the rock were awe-inspiring, a symbol of the enduring power of nature and the ancient beliefs that have shaped this region. It was so interesting to learn that Kamikura Shrine is considered the birthplace of Kumano worship.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, and feeling quite peckish after all that climbing, I treated myself to lunch at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This was a more casual affair, but the food was delicious and satisfying. I opted for a hearty bowl of ramen, the perfect fuel for the rest of my day's adventures. The onsen town itself was bustling with activity, a mix of locals and tourists all eager to experience the healing waters and the serene atmosphere.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

In the evening, I decided to return to KUMANOYASAI CAFE, but this time for a drink at their bar. It was a relaxed and welcoming space, a perfect spot to unwind after a day of exploring. I sipped on a local craft beer, chatting with some of the other patrons and sharing stories of our travels. It struck me how easy it is to connect with people when you're both drawn to the same place, the same experiences. It's one of the things I love most about traveling solo – the unexpected connections and the sense of camaraderie that can blossom in the most unlikely of places.

My day concluded with dinner at Kumagoro, a restaurant recommended by my guesthouse owner. The meal was a delightful introduction to Kumano cuisine, a mix of fresh seafood and locally grown vegetables. I savored every bite, reflecting on the day's adventures and the spiritual resonance of the Kumano Kodo. It was a day that had challenged me physically, inspired me spiritually, and left me with a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this incredible place.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

The weather today was warm, with highs around 81°F, and mostly sunny skies. It was great weather to be out exploring. I must remember to apply sunscreen tomorrow, as I forgot today and got a little bit burnt.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Oyunohara, the site of the original Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, and experience the therapeutic waters of Yunomine Onsen Yuzutsu. I'm looking forward to another day of discovery, another day of walking in the footsteps of pilgrims and connecting with the soul of Japan. I will be sure to have breakfast at Akihei before heading out and to try Fushiogami Teahouse for lunch. I'm also planning on having dinner at Yorozuya Eatery. I also want to check out Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall.

This solo journey is turning out to be exactly what I needed. A chance to disconnect from the everyday, to reconnect with myself, and to find a sense of peace and purpose in the simple act of walking. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.