A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Rejuvenation

Today was all about embracing the restorative powers of nature and tradition in the heart of the Kumano Kodo. I ventured into the quaint village of Yunomine Onsen, a place where the ancient pilgrimage routes meet soothing hot springs and simple, authentic experiences. It's a journey that nourishes the soul, reminding me why I set out on this solo adventure in the first place.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Akihei. Located a short distance from the station, this restaurant is renowned for its traditional Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality. I opted for a set meal featuring grilled fish, miso soup, and an assortment of pickled vegetables—a perfect way to fuel up for the day's explorations. The friendly staff made me feel incredibly welcome, offering tips on local attractions and sharing stories about the area's rich history. It was a delightful start, reminiscent of the cozy breakfasts Jean-Pierre and I enjoy at our local café in Lyon, before a busy day of work and school runs.

The waters of Yunomine Onsen are not just a bath, but a gateway to spiritual and physical rejuvenation, a tradition steeped in centuries of pilgrimage and healing.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to explore Oyunohara. This expansive site was once the original location of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine, before a devastating flood in 1889 led to its relocation. Today, Oyunohara stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Kumano Kodo, marked by Japan's largest Torii gate. Standing beneath this colossal structure, I felt a profound sense of connection to the pilgrims who had walked this path for centuries. The sheer scale of the gate is awe-inspiring, symbolizing the transition from the secular to the sacred. The area is steeped in legend, with stories of deities descending into the branches of a giant oak tree. It's easy to see why this place is considered a spiritual heartland.

Next on my itinerary was Yunomine Onsen Yuzutsu, a unique public cooking basin where the hot spring waters are used to prepare food. I purchased some eggs from the nearby Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall and joined the locals in cooking them in the near-boiling waters. This communal activity was a delightful experience, offering a glimpse into the traditions of the village. While waiting for the eggs to cook, I browsed the shop, which also serves as a casual Japanese-style restaurant. The menu featured a variety of teishoku sets, showcasing local flavors and fresh ingredients. It was fascinating to learn that people have been using these hot springs to cook food since the Edo period. The eggs, once cooked, were incredibly delicious, infused with the minerals from the hot spring water—a truly unique culinary experience.

For lunch, I decided to try the Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming café along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. This serene retreat is the perfect place to unwind and enjoy traditional Japanese teas and snacks. The teahouse is known for its commitment to preserving local heritage, with a décor that blends traditional and modern Japanese aesthetics. The tranquil surroundings, with views of lush greenery, provided a peaceful backdrop as I sipped on a cup of local tea and savored a light snack. It was a moment of pure bliss, a chance to reconnect with nature and reflect on my journey so far. I imagined bringing Sophie here one day; she would adore the serene atmosphere and the delightful treats.

In the late afternoon, I took some time to explore the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall more thoroughly. This charming establishment not only serves as a restaurant but also as a local newsstand, providing visitors with access to travel information and regional products. I enjoyed browsing through the souvenirs, picking up a few small gifts for Sophie and Jean-Pierre. The friendly staff were incredibly helpful, offering recommendations and sharing insights into the local culture. It's these small interactions that make traveling so rewarding.

As evening approached, I indulged in dinner at Yorozuya Eatery, a highly-recommended restaurant known for its authentic Japanese dishes and warm, inviting atmosphere. Nestled in the Yoshino District of Nara Prefecture, this eatery prides itself on using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. I savored a meal of seasonal specialties, each dish expertly crafted to highlight the natural flavors. The stunning views of the surrounding mountains added to the dining experience, making it a truly memorable occasion. The restaurant had a very local vibe, making me feel like I was experiencing the true heart of Japanese culture.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I decided to visit a local spot called Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. I had heard about its delightful atmosphere and the chance to mingle with locals and fellow travelers. Although I was tempted by Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table, I decided to save it for another evening. It was the perfect way to wind down after a day of exploration, sharing stories and experiences with people from all over the world. I even picked up some local sake to enjoy back at Jokiin, thinking of Jean-Pierre and how much he would appreciate the unique flavors.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and tranquility of Yunomine Onsen. This small village, with its ancient hot springs and rich cultural heritage, has left an indelible mark on my soul. Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey along the Kumano Kodo, exploring the Koyazaka Slope and visiting the Kumano Kodo Information Center. I'm excited to see what new adventures await, knowing that each day on this pilgrimage is a step closer to self-discovery and spiritual renewal.

The next day promises more exploration, with plans to visit Koyazaka Slope and the Kumano Kodo Information Center. I'm also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for breakfast, Tororoya for lunch and Kumagoro for dinner. And perhaps, if time allows, I’ll stop by Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a taste of local wine.

For anyone seeking a blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and spiritual rejuvenation, Yunomine Onsen is an absolute must-visit. It’s a place where the ancient traditions of the Kumano Kodo come to life, offering a transformative experience for all who walk its path.