A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Urban Explorations in Sakai

Today marked the final day of my incredible journey through Kumano Kodo, and I decided to spend it exploring Sakai. After weeks of tranquil trails and spiritual reflection, I was ready to dive back into the energy of urban Japan. It was a day filled with unexpected discoveries, offering a fascinating contrast to the serene pilgrimage I had just completed.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. After weeks on the trail, I was ready for a hearty breakfast, and KUMANOYASAI CAFE did not disappoint. Shino, the host, was incredibly welcoming, and her homemade bagels were the perfect start to my day. It felt like a little piece of home, especially after so long away. Sipping my coffee, I planned out my itinerary for the day, excited to see what Sakai had in store. The cafe itself was charming, blending rustic decor with modern touches, making it a welcoming space to relax and recharge. I even grabbed a couple of muffins for later, knowing I'd need the energy for a day of exploring.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

From there, I made my way to the Observatory Lobby at Sakai City Hall. As I ascended to the 21st floor, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. Stepping out into the corridor-style lobby, I was immediately greeted by a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view. The entire city of Sakai spread out beneath me, a vibrant tapestry of urban life. I could see the stunning Nintoku-Tenno-Ryo Tumulus, the world's largest keyhole-shaped burial mound, and in the distance, the majestic peaks of Mt. Rokko, Abeno Harukas, Mt. Ikoma and Mt. Kongo. The informative panels provided fascinating insights into the history and culture of Sakai, adding depth to the visual experience. It was a perfect starting point for my urban exploration, giving me a sense of the city's layout and landmarks. The best part? It was completely free ! I spent a good hour there, soaking in the views and snapping photos, feeling grateful for this unexpected urban oasis. The golden hour cast a warm glow over the city, making it a photographer's dream.


Discover stunning panoramic views of Sakai at the Observatory Lobby of Sakai City Hall, a perfect spot for photography and local insights.

Sometimes, the greatest adventures are found not in distant lands, but in the hidden corners of our own destinations.

Next on my list was Daisen Park, a sprawling green space located next to the Nintoku-tennō-ryō tumulus. It’s a popular spot for locals and tourists alike, and I could immediately see why. The park exuded a traditional Japanese style, with beautiful bridges, verandas, and gazebos artfully designed to complement the surrounding nature. I wandered through the Japanese garden, a tranquil oasis filled with vibrant flowers and lush trees. It was hard to believe I was still in the city; the park felt like a world away from the hustle and bustle. I watched locals fishing by the pond, families picnicking on the lawns, and couples strolling hand-in-hand. The park was a perfect blend of nature and culture, offering a peaceful escape from the urban landscape. I even stumbled upon a small tea house, where I enjoyed a cup of matcha and a traditional Japanese sweet. I learned that Sakai is known for its tea ceremony culture, which flourished during the Azuchi-Momoyama period. The park has been selected as one of the 100 best city parks in Japan, one of the 100 best historical parks in Japan, and one of the 100 best greenery parks in Osaka. I spent hours wandering through the park, taking photos and simply enjoying the serene atmosphere. It was the perfect way to unwind after weeks of hiking. I made sure to visit the Sakai City Museum to discover the cultural heritage in relation to the great tombs.


Discover the serene beauty and historical charm of Daisen Park in Sakai, a perfect destination for nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts alike.

For lunch, I decided to try Yorozuya Eatery, a hidden gem in Totsukawa-mura. This place was highly recommended for its authentic Japanese dining experience and welcoming atmosphere. It was a bit of a journey to get there, but it was well worth it. The restaurant had a local vibe, and the staff were incredibly friendly. The owner was so kind and welcoming, making me feel right at home. I ordered the okonomiyaki, which was made right at my table. It was absolutely delicious, and the prices were very reasonable. I also tried the shrimp-fried pancake and fried rice, which were some of the best I've had in Japan. Yorozuya is a gem that offers a magical and authentic Japanese dining experience.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Kumagoro, a local restaurant known for its authentic Japanese cuisine. The warm lighting and rustic decor created a cozy atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a relaxed meal. I decided to try their sushi, which was incredibly fresh and flavorful. The staff were attentive and friendly, making me feel welcome and comfortable. I paired my meal with a local beer, savoring the flavors and reflecting on my incredible journey. Kumagoro was the perfect place to end my day, offering a taste of traditional izakaya culture in a warm and inviting setting.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

And with that, my Kumano Kodo adventure came to an end. It’s hard to believe it’s over. This trip was more than just a hike; it was a journey of self-discovery and spiritual awakening. As I prepare to fly back to Lyon tomorrow, I know that the memories and experiences I’ve gained will stay with me forever. I'm already looking forward to sharing my stories with Jean-Pierre and Sophie. Until next time, Japan!

The Kumano Kodo has a certain magic to it, doesn't it? I know I'll be back, and perhaps next time, I'll convince Jean-Pierre and Sophie to join me. They would love the peaceful trails and the chance to immerse themselves in Japanese culture. For now, though, I'm content with the memories I've made on this solo adventure. It was exactly what I needed, a chance to reconnect with myself and the world around me. Maybe next time I won't forget the sunscreen or an extra SD card!

Safe travels!