A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Finding My Path: Day 1 on the Kumano Kodo

The air hung thick with humidity as I set foot on the ancient Kumano Kodo trail, a world away from my cozy Lyon apartment. Today marked the beginning of my solo pilgrimage, a journey I'd been dreaming of for years. It felt surreal to finally be here, ready to immerse myself in Japan's spiritual heartland. With a mix of excitement and nervous anticipation, I embraced the unknown, eager to discover what this path had in store for me.

My journey began early, leaving the comforts of Jokiin in Koya behind me. The train ride to Kii-Tanabe was scenic, offering glimpses of the lush landscapes that define this region. From there, a local bus wound its way to the starting point of my trek. I couldn't help but feel a sense of accomplishment, having navigated the transportation so smoothly, especially with my slightly rusty Japanese. I even managed to help a fellow traveler with directions, a small victory that boosted my confidence.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
The first stop on my itinerary was the Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. As I approached, the long stone staircase leading to the sacred grounds was a sight to behold. Towering cedar and cypress trees surrounded the shrine, creating an atmosphere of profound tranquility. I took a moment to catch my breath, feeling the weight of history and spirituality in the air. The shrine itself was magnificent, its wooden frame blending seamlessly with the natural environment. I learned that Kumano Hongu Taisha enshrines not only its own deity but also those of Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha, along with the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. It serves as the head shrine for over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan, a testament to its significance.


Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.
Exploring the shrine, I discovered a unique feature: a corridor beneath the verandas where pilgrims once meditated and copied sutras. It was here that Saint Ippen Shonin, a revered figure, achieved enlightenment. Standing in that space, I felt a connection to the countless souls who had sought solace and inspiration in this sacred place. I took some time to reflect on my own journey, my reasons for embarking on this pilgrimage, and the hopes I carried within me.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Afterward, I made my way to Oyunohara, the original site of Kumano Hongu Taisha. A massive flood in 1889 had swept away most of the shrine buildings, leading to its relocation. Today, the site is marked by the largest torii gate in the world, a colossal structure that stands as a testament to the shrine's former glory. Walking beneath the torii, I felt a sense of awe and reverence. It was a powerful reminder of the forces of nature and the resilience of the human spirit. I imagined what it must have been like when the shrine stood here, a vibrant center of faith and pilgrimage.

My next destination was the Kumano Kodo Heritage Center. Housed in modern wooden buildings, the center offered a wealth of information about the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. I spent a fascinating hour learning about the history, culture, and significance of these ancient trails. The center also highlighted the connection between the Kumano Kodo and other pilgrimage routes around the world, such as the Way of Saint James in Spain. It was inspiring to see how different cultures have embraced the concept of pilgrimage as a means of spiritual growth and self-discovery.


Immerse yourself in the cultural heritage of the Kumano region at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, a gateway to the ancient pilgrimage routes.
For lunch, I stopped at the Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a charming spot that offered a taste of local cuisine. I savored a traditional Japanese meal, enjoying the simple yet flavorful dishes. It was a welcome break, and I relished the opportunity to recharge before continuing my journey. The staff were incredibly friendly, and I practiced my Japanese with them, asking about the local area and the best places to visit. Their warmth and hospitality made me feel right at home.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
In the afternoon, I explored the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, a local shop offering a variety of regional products. I browsed through the selection of local crafts, including Kumano Japanese washi paper and Minachi-gasa conical headpieces. I was tempted to buy a few souvenirs but decided to wait, knowing that I had many more days of exploring ahead. The road station was a great place to observe local life, and I enjoyed watching people go about their daily routines. It gave me a glimpse into the heart of this community and a deeper appreciation for the region's unique culture.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.
As evening approached, I settled in at the Sansaro Cafe for dinner. The cafe had a cozy atmosphere, and the menu featured a range of delicious options. I opted for a hearty meal, knowing that I needed to fuel up for the next day's hike. While enjoying my dinner, I reflected on the day's experiences. I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims, to connect with nature, and to discover the spiritual essence of Japan. The humidity was definitely something to get used to, reaching highs of 81°F during the day, but I was prepared with my lightweight rain jacket.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
Before heading back to my accommodation, I took a moment to review the itinerary for tomorrow. I'll be venturing to Kumano-Nachi Taisha and the Nachi Waterfall. I'm particularly excited to see the Nachi Waterfall, one of Japan's tallest waterfalls. I plan to start early, grabbing breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE before heading out. Lunch will be at Yorozuya Eatery, and I'm looking forward to trying some local specialties. In the evening, I'll treat myself to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. And perhaps, if I'm not too tired from all the hiking, I'll visit Wine Kumano for a relaxing drink.

As I drifted off to sleep, I felt a deep sense of peace and contentment. The Kumano Kodo had already begun to work its magic, and I knew that this journey would be a transformative experience. I missed Jean-Pierre and Sophie, of course, but I knew this solo time was important for my soul. I was eager to see what tomorrow would bring, ready to embrace the challenges and rewards of the path ahead. Maybe I'll even find that sunscreen I forgot!