A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Finding Peace in the Land of the Gods

Today was a day of profound beauty and spiritual awakening as I continued my solo pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo. The blend of ancient shrines, thundering waterfalls, and tranquil forests created an atmosphere that resonated deeply within me. It was a day to remember, filled with moments of awe and quiet reflection.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It was a delightful start to the day, fueling up with some local flavors before embarking on the day’s adventures. The cafe's cozy atmosphere and the friendly staff made it a perfect spot to gather my thoughts and prepare for the day ahead. I savored every bite, knowing that I needed the energy for the climbs and explorations that awaited me.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The first major stop was Kumano-Nachi Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano. The bus dropped me off near Daimonzaka, and I decided to hike the ancient stone-paved path leading up to the shrine. The path was lined with towering cedar trees, their roots gnarled and intertwined, creating a mystical ambiance. As I ascended, I could feel the weight of history beneath my feet, imagining the countless pilgrims who had walked this same path over centuries. The air was thick with humidity, but the shade of the trees offered a welcome respite from the summer heat.


Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.

Reaching Kumano-Nachi Taisha was like stepping into another world. The vibrant vermilion buildings stood in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery, creating a visually stunning scene. The shrine exuded a sense of peace and reverence, and I took my time to explore the various halls and temples within the complex. I learned about the shrine's history, how it has been a center of Shinto worship for over 1,700 years, and how it coexisted harmoniously with the neighboring Buddhist temple, Seiganto-ji, for centuries.

The thundering sound of water barreling down every second will give believers and non-believers alike a mystical experience.

Adjacent to Kumano-Nachi Taisha is the Seiganto-ji Temple, a Buddhist temple that shares a long history with the shrine. The most iconic feature of Seiganto-ji is its three-storied pagoda, which offers a breathtaking view of Nachi Waterfall. For a small fee, I climbed the pagoda and was rewarded with a closer look at the falls, framed perfectly by the pagoda's architecture. The view was simply mesmerizing, and I spent a few moments soaking it all in. The pagoda itself was reconstructed in 1972.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

After visiting the shrine and temple, I made my way down to Nachi Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan, with a drop of 133 meters. The sound of the water crashing down was deafening, and the mist created a cool, refreshing spray. It was easy to understand why this waterfall has been worshipped as a deity for centuries. I visited Hiro Shrine, located at the base of the falls, and paid my respects to the waterfall deity. For a small fee, I tasted the pure waterfall water, said to grant good fortune and long life. I am not sure if it works, but I am happy to try!

Lunch was a simple affair at Yorozuya Eatery, a local spot where I enjoyed a comforting meal of traditional Japanese fare. It was a welcome break after all the walking and climbing, and I appreciated the chance to refuel and recharge. It was just what I needed before heading off to explore more of the area.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

In the late afternoon, I decided to treat myself to a drink at Wine Kumano. This cozy bar specializes in natural wines, craft beer, and coffee. I opted for a glass of local wine and savored the moment, reflecting on the day's experiences. It was a perfect way to unwind and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of Kumano. I saw that they have vegan options, including a multi-course vegetarian meal that can be made vegan, which I will definitely try next time.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

For dinner, I ventured to Hinoki Steak House, where I indulged in a delicious steak dinner. It was a bit of a splurge, but I felt I deserved it after a long day of hiking and exploring. The steak was cooked to perfection, and the ambiance of the restaurant was warm and inviting. It was a satisfying end to a truly remarkable day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As I sit here in my room at Jokiin in Koya, reflecting on the day, I can't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. The blend of natural beauty, spiritual significance, and cultural richness has made this experience truly unforgettable. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a path to self-discovery and inner peace.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead and cross the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. I'm looking forward to the challenge and the opportunity to immerse myself further in the stunning landscapes of this sacred region. I might stop by Watarase onsen cafe for breakfast and Tororoya for lunch. I'm also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings and to continue sharing my experiences with you all.

I am so glad I decided to come on this adventure, even without Jean-Pierre and Sophie. I miss them, but I think it is good for me to have some time to myself. I know they are having fun in Lyon and I can't wait to see them when I get back. Until then, I will continue to explore and share my experiences with you all. The Kumano Kodo is a truly special place, and I am honored to be able to walk these ancient trails and discover its secrets.